Gwbarm
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Everything posted by Gwbarm
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The only thing I've ever heard bad about Polaris is that they were hard to work on, never worked on one, so I have nothing to back that statement up.
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I think you might see that the very early ones were made in Japan. Worth restoring
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I think the specs for adjusting that are in the manual
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Weak spark, I would generally point my finger at the main coil, but you have already tested that, next I would check to make sure it has a good ground.
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Hows the Big Bear doing ?
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There was one listed for the 06 model as mech said part # 53411-31G02 MUDFLAP, FENDER INNER RH
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But you got a Honda, you will get it right, and be proud when you do, plus, look at all the fun you are having. Did it run when you got it?
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If I was buying a new one, I would go to all the dealers sit on them and see which one is the most comfortable and fits you best with ease of controls, you are going to be sitting and driving this for a while and I wouldn't compromise comfort , they are all good as long as you maintain them and not terribly abuse them, you will be fine.
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Never seen a valve tack welded to a keeper, I do some, non text book repairs, but that's got me beat.
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Suzuki Eiger 25x8x12 front 25x10x12 rear, haven't looked there in a while,
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Reliability holding value and performance. I have had a 250 since 89 and never done anything to it except starter, its now worth twice what I paid for it. Just my opinion, never rode a Polaris they may be good. In my area the Hondas bring the biggest price on the used market, Foremans and Ranchers second is Yamaha, Big Bears and Kodiaks running in good shape sell immediately.
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If I had to rate: Honda wins, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawaski, Arctic Cat. Don't see many Polaris for sale in my area South US.
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If you have the equipment to install tires Amazon has lots to choose from, I like the Kenda Bearclaw, but you might want a more aggressive tread. I don't have the proper equipment and will never do that again. When I buy the next set I will find a local dealer that install them.
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I ran into the same problem with my Eiger, no right hand side listed, so I called, of course you know the response I got, if its not on the parts list we can't get it , but, if you know the part # we will try to order it for you. I just let it go and thought well maybe it never had one.
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Top dead center on the compression stroke both cam lobes should be pointed down, there is a line on the cam gear that should be level with the top of the head.
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Black/white wire from stop switch , connector , going to CDI
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Kind of jumping back and forth here, but I am still not getting spark. I have checked all the systems that would keep spark from happening numerous times, does anyone know of an aftermarket CDI for a 2000 big bear, I find them for the 350,Warrior, and Kodiak, but haven't been able to find one for the 2000 400. Not really sure why, I thought the kodiak might be the same but it looks different. I don't mind paying the big money if its bad, im not sure, I still could be missing something. Pick up coil resistance is within specs but I haven't figured out how to check that it is actually putting out voltage.
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Good, was going to mention looking for little chunks of rubber in the engine, but I figured you would do that. Good you got your parts coming let us know how you come out. Yes, if Mech says they are good, they will be fine.
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Good to know that, I have always just replaced them, figured age and oil soaked for years would cause the rubber to disinegrate.
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Yes not even sure how that got broke unless they over torqued it , it was the top hole, I didn't really expect JB weld to work, and it didn't , I was very careful too, I put the bottom two bolts in first got them hand tight and then put the broken one in, tightened it slightly then backed off, torqued down the other two and then just tightened the repaired one hand tight, it should have worked. Went to check the compression and didn't have the right adapter for my gauge , threads appear smaller than standard.
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Yes you should definitely replace that, I would get a new part for that replacement.
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The second one is a good price. You did good , because they would get for shipping on top of the part price.You got free shipping plus the gear if you need it.
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Just checked OEM part $9.36 part # 90235-HAO-680 Nut, Lock,(20mm) o o o pp
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That seems too much look on motorsports.com hem parts.
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Yes the threaded section not the wrench size.
