Gwbarm

I put one on my suzuki when I got it, old one was flooding badly, which was also a generic, the plastic piece that screws into carb for choke cable was stripped out and triangle piece that covers the cables was missing, I ordered a generic that came with these pieces and the whole carb was cheaper than these two pieces OEM. Put it on and it ran perfectly, idle was a little slow so I adjusted it, and have had no problems yet. That was a couple of months ago, we will see how long it lasts.

Three wheelers are developing a big fan base, they were good machines, they are selling for more now than they did when they were new.

Good price for a carb! i think OEM is about 300. Thats cheaper than most carb kits.

The 500 drive on lift they have is for a motorcycle, I don't think its wide enough for atv, but that's the one I was referring to. Its a very nice lift but its now up to 599 a few years ago you could get it for 299

Thats a good price thanks.

I think its located on the downframe left hand side don't have a quad master but that's where my suzuki number is located

Iv been waiting on Harbour freight to put them on sale again, you used to be able to get them fairly reasonable, I think they are around 500 now twice what they used to be

Thank you for the info, I will check it out.

This is my wreck! I never reply intended to fix this one, I bought it for wheels and tires, but when I saw the engine was all there I couldn't stand it, I have to try to get it running. I have this feeling of accomplishment bringing old machines back from the dead.

I think you might be running lean after you check to make sure your fuel pump is pumping gas as Mech suggested, try enriching your mixture a little bit see if that helps, you can also check for manifold leaks with it running spray wd 40 carb cleaner what ever you have right where manifold meets the engine and where carb meets manifold if idle increases you have an air leak. As far as getting hand grips off I pry up the rubber a little and squirt a little lubricant around the grip and use compressed air to blow it loose from the handlebar.

The little hoses are cheap but the larger hoses 50 and 140 im missing the largest hose and it said unavailable im just starting to buy yamaha parts and they are quite a bit more expensive than Suzuki, the other one im working on, but I don't think I will pay 140 plus shipping for a hose, ill make something else work. Ebay wanted 140 for the complete airbox and larger hose, still kind of high for a muddy box and hose that's probably cracked somewhere.

Sorry, I was wrong, thinking of a different bike, the Hose you were asking about goes from carb to larger hose The power outlet on my BB

If you can move the gear shifter and get it to start it sounds like it might not be sensing that its in neutral, a problem with the neutral switch.

If its been sitting for a while you might try tapping GENTLY around the starter with a hammer sometimes dust and rust built up in there and nothing makes contact, but chances are it needs replacing.

Good job getting it running, I would be looking at compression and intake manifold leak ,possibly make sure vacuum slide is working properly. I may be wrong but I don't think the air box missing is causing suction problems .

I tried it no spark, last time I tried it just to see if the starter works, I didn't have a coil yet, installed the coil today plugged in the wire and right next to the coil wire was a black wire that looks like it went to ground not enough wire to go anywhere else so I put it under the nut that holds the coil on. I powered it back up and the fan came on so I figured this was the fan ground. Didn't really want the fan running now so took it back off, so there's a short somewhere there. I do hear a very minute click at the solenoid when I turn the key on so I think power is getting there. Just starting to check start switch circuit to see if it is good and started raining again. Pick back up tomorrow.

I haven't heard that It does not look new, I have been looking for a generic one and haven't been able to find one to fit the 2000 big bear 400 there is one to fit the 2000 Kodiak but haven't found one for Big Bear. I really suspect its bad

I got everything hooked back up except lights, plastics still off, put a new keyswitch, solenoid, coil, plugged every thing where it needs to go and put battery to it. I got a green neutral light, but no rotation with switch. Starter will turn over when I jump the solenoid, so I have some more wire chasing to do, hadn't checked for spark yet, I figured i need to get it rotating by pushing the button before I do that.

Agreed, I never buy anything from my local dealer, they are strictly retail, there are several online OEM parts places that I use that are much cheaper, still expensive, but much cheaper than local dealer.

Not sure, but I agree with Mech, must be different carb I don't have anything that looks like that on my Big Bear

OEM parts I use Rockymountainatvmc.com.

I have noticed that the CDI boxes for the older ones are dirt cheap, not so much on 2000 up models, one for mine is at 400.00.

Iv always been a little afraid of buying electronic components on Ebay , will they actually work and for how long.

Oh! the scissor table is much better, never got one because they take up a lot of room.

Is rather confusing because the Rotella is T4 and the Suzuki oil is 4T