Gwbarm

I have downloaded several from manualslib.com.

From what I see it looks like the parts would fit, I would be a little concerned about the quality of the oil filter and spark plug I like to put quality oil filters in my rigs.

You can check the connections to the information center, it sounds like a sensor not recognizing you have shifted, im a little suprized it will move forward if it thinks you are in reverse. I would try unplugging connections cleaning with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in. That would be my first step.

The trigger coil is located under the rotor stator cover of the engine as the rotor goes around the magnet causes the trigger coil to pulse causing spark not sure on your bike but my guess would be the blue and white wire, you can test with OHM meter by going blue white to ground. Not sure on your bike most have 200 OHM coils set meter to 2000OHM should show .2 on meter good range is usually .2 to .4

As Jim said, probably, but this is what I do: After installing the carb it should start right up and you can usually tell if its running good or not, if running OK i drive it around a little and get everything flowing good and warmed up, make sure the air box and all hoses and filter are back in place, then I turn the mixture screw to left until it starts running poorly and then I turn it back to the right until again it starts running poorly and some where in the middle of these two points where the engine is running the smoothest is where I stop. The last two aftermarket carbs I installed I had to adjust the idle, down near where the cable connects to the carb is a screw to do that with, if you are putting on OEM you might not have to do that step.

If you found the air fuel mixture screw I would try adjusting that first to see if it helps, if not then move the needle , on a new carb you should not have to move the needle, this is just a suggestion , all aftermarket carbs should be close enough to factory to run properly for a while. Thats my experience .

It looks good, glad you got it all fixed up,

I do have everything wired back up not exactly in place because a lot of the wires including solenoid and battery fit on top of the rear fender. I will take some photos and post tomorrow

Thanks! I have the repair manual and have been working on putting the wiring harness back together so I can start testing for correct voltages everywhere. I did a VIN # internet search and this is what I found Mech, that's the same thing my wife said.

My state claims there is no way to make an ATV street legal. https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/all-terrain-vehicle-atv-laws-mississippi

It seems that ATV transmissions are moving more toward automatic these days, I would like to hear other members opinions and experiences, what do you like best Automatic or semi automatic in relation to, power , ease of use, and reliability.

Thanks for looking for me, mine ia a 2000 Big Bear 400, wiring harness is different for the 350, in fact, im having a lot of trouble finding parts for the 2000 except OEM , when the year range its listed for generic parts the 2000 model is always omitted don't know what's different about it. See plenty for the 2000 Kodiak, which I thought would be about the same, but not Big Bear.

From what I get, you are using fusion, a krypton paint for plastic, over the sherwin Williams bonding primer. The question is why use bonding primer if fusion is for plastic.

Very nice, haven't seen one in a long time, I had one back in the 70s

Iv heard that story more than once, happened to me more than once, this is what I do, transmissions can be tricky, double check to make sure everything is where it needs to be, don't forget the shims they are easy to loose they stick to other parts.Gear clusters have to be installed together with the shift fork, come down slowly with the other case half, wiggling it as you go down, should fall in place, make sure its not binding on the crank bearing, if its binding there you might need to put a little heat on bearing. Why did you have to split the case to replace top end?

I have been very impressed with Harbour freight lately, their quality seems to have bumped up a notch.

Thats a bad place for a crack, JB weld is good, but I would feel more secure if it were welded.

Love the mountains!

Those electric lifts are very nice sounds like a good setup.

Yours is in about the same state as mine but im still chasing wiring problems, I like the green ashamed you can't polish them .

Thats the same reason I never bought one floor space, I wish I would have now, the prices have gone so high. I think the other reason is that they are so heavy, which is a good thing, but more than one man can really move around.

I put one on my suzuki when I got it, old one was flooding badly, which was also a generic, the plastic piece that screws into carb for choke cable was stripped out and triangle piece that covers the cables was missing, I ordered a generic that came with these pieces and the whole carb was cheaper than these two pieces OEM. Put it on and it ran perfectly, idle was a little slow so I adjusted it, and have had no problems yet. That was a couple of months ago, we will see how long it lasts.

Three wheelers are developing a big fan base, they were good machines, they are selling for more now than they did when they were new.

Good price for a carb! i think OEM is about 300. Thats cheaper than most carb kits.

The 500 drive on lift they have is for a motorcycle, I don't think its wide enough for atv, but that's the one I was referring to. Its a very nice lift but its now up to 599 a few years ago you could get it for 299