Gwbarm

Im hoping, the engine seems okay 130 compression a little low but I think this had been sitting since 2019, there is a date on the CDI, hand written, im assuming that's when they bought the CDI, not sure if used or new, and am certain it never ran with the coil in upside down.

I haven't read the Kawasaki manual but in the Yamaha , it has you check for power and ground at the CDI, check for Coil wire continuity to CDI, check pickup coil resistance about 550, check anti rotation coil resistance, its low maybe .2, make sure both coils are making voltage, actually the yamaha manual does tell this I added it, it does not tell what the voltage should be, and if all these tests are passed replace the CDI. Oh by the way, nice looking bike, very good condition, I like the Moose.

Good eye Eugen, I didn't even notice the chewed up gasket, I am going to remount it and see if it works, thanks for the video p5200 I did notice that his was mounted like mine but the mounting tabs were lower in the case and the coil didn't stick up out of the case like mine, and Mech great information on how to test it. If still no spark I will check to see if it is putting out voltage and if it is I will have replace the CDI. I have read several posts of the same thing happening , put in upside down, It just amazes me that they didn't notice how the old one came out, and didn't even question their work and just give up.

I was thinking it didn't look right being proud of the side cover like that.

Yes

Thanks for the reply Eugen, im not sure, I have not had one of these apart before and that was my first thought when I saw it, appears it should be in the recessed area looks like it belongs there I am going to take some measurements and see where it lines up with the magnet on the rotor, the other way around. Mech my magnet is it tact looks fine, I am going to inspect it closer when I clean the rust off.

Thanks, when im cleaning it up tomorrow I will take a look.

Thats about the same resistance I have been getting from the aftermarket coils, so maybe they are OK, I was just going by the yamaha manual specs.

Quite a heard, I have 2 suzuki eigers, 2004 and 2007, 400s, both run good but one is a project I hadn't got to yet. I also have a 2000 big bear, neglected, that im having trouble getting spark, im working on getting it going now. I would have more but my wife said I don't know what a grown man needs with 3 4 wheelers.

Look down about 3:00 at the second rotor photo is that the tab you are referring too.

Just got the side cover off, pretty ugly in there:

Don't have a Kawasaki, but for my yamaha 400 the manual states it should be 10000 OHMs, the after market coil I just received only had 7 , and the one I ordered before that only had 3. If you need to replace it go OEM to get the correct specs.

I don't know if this is the correct wiring diagram for yours , it shows a stop button and a start switch, your B/W wire from the start switch goes to the CDI and the black goes to ground.

Iv been trying to decide If I should just go ahead and replace it, it is an aftermarket unit already, and they are cheap.

I couldn't get the OHM s to work on my antique needle meter to check OHMs during cranking, I haven't used it in so long the battery corroded in there and the negative metal tab disintegrated, I have another but haven't found it yet.

Glad you got it working, my concern would be why the drive shaft moved out of the correct position , what keeps it in place and is it worn or missing, and will it happen again.

I just pulled up one YFB250FW 1994-2000 it shows a stop button with a start switch, sorry for the poor quality internet grab

Your welcome , hope it works out , the one I fixed went away so I don't have any information of the longevity compared to metal.

So you started it in park and them went to reverse, but if you start it in neutral it won't let you go to reverse, that's interesting.

Sounds like you hooked positive to negative and that what blew the fuse, what year is it and I will see if I can find a wiring diagram and take a look, sometimes aftermarket key switches are not wired with the same color wires as OEM.

Nothing like riding down to the creek, being alone in the woods listening to the water go by, birds chirping, squirrels barking so peaceful and relaxing.

You say it clicks with the start/stop switch in the stop position, you might want to check that , sounds like you might have a ground problem.

I will do that

OEM Parts are expensive good you have 4.

Got out this afternoon and did a few tests, made some test leads to fit into the CDI plug of the wiring harness, got the mechanical meter with needle, hooked it up to the white/green and white/ red for the pickup coil, set on the lowest AC voltage setting which was 15 turned over the engine and got nothing, thought, this isn't working at all, then I moved my leads to the rotation direction coil wires white/blue and red rotated it over and the needle moved. So it does work, thanks you for that info Mech. So I have something wrong with the pickup coil even though it had the right resistance rating of 528. Next step is pull the side cover and see what's going on with the aftermarket stator. The wires are not color coded the same as the OEM wiring harness wires, im going to look inside and see what goes where. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.