Gwbarm
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Everything posted by Gwbarm
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What he said, I forgot to mention the diodes. Sorry, just say your earlier post, I just meant confirm you did have 12 volts going to the coil, and you have done that.
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When I first signed up I got a few ads, just one click and they go away and after being on for about 3 months started getting more, I was so used to just clicking them off I didn't notice. About a month ago I started getting this square appearing in the middle of my screen and totally locked it until you watched an add, rather annoying. I am using Mac with Safari nothing special. I then decided to join, I had been meaning to anyway, this is the best site iv been on with a lot of activity and helpful people and I wanted to support it and the efforts of the Administrators.
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Chart is a little confusing, the way im reading it :Blue/Yellow +, Green/Gray- ,should give you a reading of 12.73M OHMs, Blue/Yellow+, Green/White-, should give reading 90.4K OHMs, etc.
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My experience is the aftermarket carburetors run too lean I would compare the jet sizes from the old to the new and see if they match, I think Mech and KP covered most of the fixes, the only thing I might add is you could go up on jet size, or drill them out, but if you drill them out, you have to be careful not to get them too large.
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That guy really is good, I wish I could cut and weld that fast.
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You do need 12volts going to the coil.
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Tire shine is a good idea, never tried that, may be better.
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I was just looking at the PDF Mech sent, there are 2 things I see that could be problematic, the pulser coil, is it in tact and putting out proper voltage, and the ignition unit itself, there are resistance numbers listed in the PDF for checking that unit, they generally either spark or don't spark, but those 2 things might be worth checking.
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He is just bypassing having to push the button and pull the lever, im sure it would work fine. I always thought it was kind of annoying the way honda did their reverse switch, but I will say this, it has always worked I have had this honda since the 80s its one of the early TRX 250 a little different from yours, and I have never had to replace the cable or any parts associated with the reverse switch. If your on a tight budget it would certainly be a cheap fix, especially if the parts are expensive. I would do it for a temporary fix, but I like to put things back as close to factory as possible.
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Interesting they call it an ignition unit, and on the next page they call it a CDI, but the coil resistance is higher than a CDI coil.
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I think you are right your compression release is not working, if it will run, try this, cover the intake hit the starter as soon as it starts to turn over remove your intake cover, it should start. Not sure on yours never worked on 125 but all the ones I have repaired have been quite troublesome inside the engine.
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I tied looking it up to see exactly what it had, you are right, not much information on them, none of the online parts houses I use listed any parts for it. Are you using a coil that is specific for the Kymco or just a coil. Mech thats news to me I thought all of the newer bikes had CDI systems, maybe they are going back to the basics.
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Thats quite a bend in a bad place, I would try to rig up a jack somehow between the A arm heat it and try to push it back in place it would have to be a very small jack, but as. Mech said knowing when it's right is a hard call.
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It been a long time since I looked at mine, i would go look but its 100 miles away, the lever should not have moved out of place, you will have to adjust the cable to get it to work correctly. Once you get the parts you will be able to better see how it all goes together.
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Do you have the missing parts. 2000 Honda TRX300FW 4X4 OEM Parts | MotoSport.pdf
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Still waiting on parts to get the big bear going, decided to take 5 minutes to pull the carb and check it out, it is an aftermarket, choke plunger was stuck an hr later after PB Blaster for corrosion and Berryman Chemtool for varnish I finally got it out. Carb was dirty but not as bad as I expected
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This one only goes to 2001 may help: 2000-01_Big_Bear_400_Service_Manual_Repair (dragged).pdf
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On the left brake handle there is a button you push, and hold the button down and pull the brake lever at the same time, then push the shifter down to go into reverse, the left lever has 2 cable one for brake and one for reverse. The lever I think you are talking about is for the parking brake, it just hold the lever in the pulled position.
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I always spray mine down with Armor All, I spray them don't touch them and come back and check if its all soaked in I do it again until they are black again, I think it helps, because rubber gets hard and brittle when all of the moisture is depleted. Use it on all rubber parts even plastics. Plastic doesn't soak in much so I wipe the excess away and kind of leaves a protective coating.
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KLF300 Bayou 1994 EU with weak or no spark issues
Gwbarm replied to Params_sweden's topic in Kawasaki ATV Forum
I think your coil resistance is good I don't think that's your problem, I was also concerned with my coil specs on the aftermarket I installed resistances were not up to repair manual specs , but once I found my problem, it sparks good with the low spec coil. -
I would check the primary and secondary resistances of the new coil , I have had them bad right out of the box. I would check to make sure im getting a good ground and good power to the CDI , make sure you are getting a good 12v to the coil, make sure your frame and engine ground are good, this may be extreme , but before I start buying expensive parts, I would take the side cover off and inspect the stator and pulser coil for trash or debris or anything out of the ordinary, loose bolts crimped wires etc. I know you have probably done all these things, im just going over a list of what I would check and double check.
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2000 Kawasaki Prairie 300 4x4 Rear Seal Leak
Gwbarm replied to Wrye Pipeworks's topic in Kawasaki ATV Forum
Im sure the bearings will be fine, I actually have been impressed with the quality of some of the aftermarket parts I have purchased, I am also trying to bring a 2000 ATV back to life on a budget, I would have bought them also at that price, but as KP said be sure and mic them and compare against the old to make sure they fit correctly. -
2000 Kawasaki Prairie 300 4x4 Rear Seal Leak
Gwbarm replied to Wrye Pipeworks's topic in Kawasaki ATV Forum
That does seem cheap for bearings shipping would be more than 4 dollars. -
Quadman I did a lot of research when I was looking to buy one, couldn't even find an aftermarket to fit the Big Bear and the ones claiming to fit the Kodiak some rating were good and some were bad. Then I looked at the used market and did not want to go that route, 300 for a used one was not going to happen, so my conclusion was all that was left was buy a new one, there are several online yamaha dealers that are cheaper than your local yamaha shop. Its really ashamed the parts are so high to the point of so many machines being junked, 400 for CDI 650 for Carb, 400 for stator, 600 for rotor .
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I looked and was not sure which wiring diagram was correct for the bike. Right mech, sounds like the switch wires are not color coded right, you can take the switch apart see which wire colors operate on and off, then look at the wiring diagram and wire it accordingly, some of the switches you can take the terminal out and move it to where it needs to be and still use the connector. Just looked at one of the wiring diagrams on the main switch R and Br in on, and B/W and B is off.
