Gwbarm

I think from your test it appears the coil is not putting out what it needs, I was thinking maybe the ignition unit was bad, but now I don't think so.

Your old CDI is probably still good I wouldn't throw it away, the same thing happened to me bought a new coil the resistance was about the same as yours I sent it back the next one I got was closer had secondary resistance of 7 still not up to manual specs of 10 but I just thought it might be a different cap . It ended up working found my pickup coil was mounted upside down. I think you have done everything right, just haven't found the problem yet. The pickup coil could have corrosion or trash on it a little troublesome to get too but maybe worth look to see. I am assuming its putting out voltage or it wouldn't be sparking at all, my manual doesnt say how much voltage it should be putting out. I will look at the schematic again see if there is anything I missed. Can you post a video of the spark you are getting. This is mine after I cleaned the pickup and repositioned it. IMG_3566.mov

I am assuming you are talking about the Polaris 500 Scrambler. This is what I know about it, it is considered one of the best ATVs Polaris ever made. The early ones from 95 to about 2001 were recalled for electrical problems, mostly 400s. The 500s were double overhead cam engines with a screaming top speed of 70 MPH.

I Ran across this video today comparing an aftermarket to OEM Carb on Suzuki Vinson, thought it might generate some interest, it is quite long but informative.

Did hear the popping, it seems to go good no hesitation which is what I would expect running too lean, have to jiggle the throttle to get it to go, sound kind of like an exhaust valve pop I would have to hear it idling to determine that for sure.

Sorry to hear that, we would have figured it out, I understand, been there many times, walk away, forget about it for a few days, come back with a clear mind.

You are right, not really much to that piece, if it is what you say I have never seen one before , but don't work on pit bike engines much.

If both were down your good, im just trying to figure it out, when you installed the cam gear the arrow was at 12:00, both valves closed on the compression stroke, no reason it shouldn't run, did you check the compression after installing new rings.

Some reason I thought you had 2 and just wondered if they had the same resistance ratings.

Only reason I mentioned aftermarket I got three of the coils before I ever got one close to the right specs, your pickup coil is good. The manual I had which was for the Big Bear 400 and Kodiak 400. Which part was bad CDI or coil. I might try the old CDI with the new coil. The only reason im saying this is I have heard mixed opinions regarding aftermarket CDI being reliable.

The little notch on the metal piece looks kind of worn, maybe its not catching the release .

Nothing much:

It is a 2006 Jialing, made by Shanghai Jailing Vehicle Co., according to the Vin number you posted , the search didn't like the period at the end. Not much information and most sites couldn't find it.

So it was not sparking, you replaced the CDI and coil, now it sparks but doesn't run, correct. Did you use aftermarket or OEM parts would be my first question, the next thing would be check the resistance of the pulser coil , if you have service manual check the specs, from memory it should be about 500 OHMs. Check the resistances from your new coil, iv had them bad right out of the box, and do the same with your old one and see if they are different. I have a Big Bear should be close to the same mine are.2 on primary and 8K on secondary.

I just been reading all the post and thinking about it , I think you are 180 degrees off, even if you were off by a couple of teeth it should still try to start, when you reinstalled the cam were both lobes pointing down.

Did you do this same test with both coils.

I figured it had to be something more than it appeared, I v been mostly impressed with the Chinese engines, but occasionally I will see one and say, really, you didn't do that.

Oh by the way, glad to have you, welcome to the forum, lots of good information shared.

Agreed, I would double check the timing marks make sure nothing moved.

That looks like a pop rivet holding it on, that could be rather annoying if you have to replace the spring, but looks can be deceiving.

That metal piece at the top of your second photo looks like it could be it is the spring in tact and does it move or is it stationary, never seen one exactly like that if that's it can't tell a whole lot from the photos, good photos just can't really see much.

What he said, I forgot to mention the diodes. Sorry, just say your earlier post, I just meant confirm you did have 12 volts going to the coil, and you have done that.

When I first signed up I got a few ads, just one click and they go away and after being on for about 3 months started getting more, I was so used to just clicking them off I didn't notice. About a month ago I started getting this square appearing in the middle of my screen and totally locked it until you watched an add, rather annoying. I am using Mac with Safari nothing special. I then decided to join, I had been meaning to anyway, this is the best site iv been on with a lot of activity and helpful people and I wanted to support it and the efforts of the Administrators.

Chart is a little confusing, the way im reading it :Blue/Yellow +, Green/Gray- ,should give you a reading of 12.73M OHMs, Blue/Yellow+, Green/White-, should give reading 90.4K OHMs, etc.

My experience is the aftermarket carburetors run too lean I would compare the jet sizes from the old to the new and see if they match, I think Mech and KP covered most of the fixes, the only thing I might add is you could go up on jet size, or drill them out, but if you drill them out, you have to be careful not to get them too large.