Gwbarm

Earth is ground , it may need to be there to complete the circuit, try a jumper wire in place of the sensor and see if that does anything.

I suspected the sensor, but had no idea it had that much control over engine functions , that's pretty high tech for 2009, I kind of like being smarter than my engine, that dosent seen to be the case anymore.

Thats a good thought, i may do that just for fun, no telling what they would charge to do that, but nobody around here brings this old stuff to a dealer, they charge more to fix them than the bike is worth, that's why you see so many junked ones. Example: I have a 2003 Cadillac it was my mothers car, pristene condition 45,000 miles on it, took it to the dealer, they did not even want to work on it , said the car is older than most of their mechanics, this certainly isn't the world I grew up in ,changing daily.

A brand new OEM CDI unit from motorsports.com is $409.00. Certainly cheaper than local dealer.

If you have an air impact hammer you can use it on the end of the shaft along with pressure from the puller sometimes that will get it.

Just looked up OEM coil 35.99 not so bad them I found out it didn't come with the spark plug boot, 50.00 for spark plug boot, that's pricy.

It definitely has the top speed to do racing, as far as breaking it, hitting bumps at high speeds is definitely hard on the suspension. Just check that everything is snug and tight , and be careful, one wrong move and you can be hurt badly, had a friend hit something and threw him over the handlebars, broke his neck, has never been right since.

I think the foreman would be an excellent choice, 4 wheel drive is great, but they are harder to steer , so I would get the power steering model. You may or may not need sand tires it really depends on the sand.

I have come to the same conclusion, I haven't even got to the CDI box yet, I am on my 3 rd aftermarket coil, and not one of them has the correct resistance rating that the manual says the coil should have, so if im having this much trouble with generic coils I can't imagine a CDI being correct either, they are specific to the bike, and there is something different about the 2000 and 2001 models I haven't figured it out yet but im working on it. As much as it hurts, im buying OEM parts from now on. The coil may work fine once I figure out why im not getting spark, but they don't has the specs the manual says they should have.

It does sound like a minute grounding issue as Mike suggested, I would check all the electrical sensors and make sure they are in tact, also more information, is it in gear, is it in neutral, does all of the functions work on the cluster, does the speedo work, there is a speed sensor for that.

Iv wondered that too, the generic ones I have seen say it fits the Kodiak and Warrior but not the big bear, and if you read the ratings , many complaints about it not even working with the Kodiak.

That just what I need, ideas I haven't thought of , I don't mind buying a CDI if I am sure its bad, but I am not sure yet.

Still working on the 2000 Big Bear with a no spark issue. A lot of this has been covered in an older thread, but I will summarize. Bought it with the previous owner telling me it needed a new wiring harness, but the wiring harness was in tact and seemed to be fine, except starter solenoid and coil was missing, also the engine was stuck, and no spark plug. Got the engine free and rotating, checked compression, it was 130, not great, but good enough to run. Hooked up a battery, nothing , went through all the wiring and found starter cutout relay bad, replaced that, now I have it rotating with starter. Pulled the plug checked, no spark. Checked start/stop switch, working like it should, reverse relay was bad ,replaced that. Checked continuity from coil to CDI, good, checked pickup coil resistance, within specs, checked anti kickback coil resistance, within specs. What am I missing.

Thanks Q ! I wasn't sure if it would work good with a wet clutch.

Is that the motorcycle version, or regular mobile 1.

That one is really fried , im assuming when your pos battery terminal snapped of it touched ground and fried your CDI, that's bad luck.

Just reading your post, must have come in while I was writing my last one. I never even found an aftermarket version that claimed it would would work with the 2000 Big Bear. I think 2000 and 2001 were different somehow.

I did see on one of my searches a company tests CDI and repairs if needed, I didn't pay it much attention because it was 250 to repair and 50 to test to see if it needed repair, at that point I was still toying with the idea of building one from Chinese parts, but the 2000 Big Bear is a DC CDI and a little more complicated, and most Chinese stuff that I thought might work was AC. They do make a CDI for Kodiak 400 same year, aftermarket for about 30.00 but the plugs are different from the big bear, but the Kodiak and Bears seem to be wired about the same so I don't know what the difference is, and nobody has been able to tell me. Not much help, but that is what I have found out in my limited research.

I forgot about the welded keeper, As long as it works, but im sure the seals were fried when he welded it.

You are right. I was remembering wrong.

I was thinking gear # 3 might be the one UP was referring to but it could be # 5or even 17.

Im kind of in the same boat, pay more for CDI than I paid for the whole bike when I don't know how good the engine is, but, im certainly not going to pay 300 used taking someones words that it is good, there's not even a test for that, how does he know its good, and even if it is good , for how long. I have been dragging my feet on this one, but I think im going to have to buy a new one for 400. If you come up with another option, please let me know.

The sad part , you could have replaced them very easily when you had the head off.

Not sure exactly on yours, the manual will be helpful, but on all the kickstarters I have worked on the pinion gear fits onto the crank generally the first 2 teeth go into that gear with the kicker all the way up, there is usually a half moon set of teeth on the pinion, it goes on the first couple of teeth and as you kick down you get to the end of the half moon and the kicker comes back up from the spring, i think that's what you are talking about. I may not have done a very good job of explaining it but you will see when you get the manual.

Thats exactly what it is, oil is leaking down into the combustion chamber from bad seal, doesn't really cause any problems, I just don't like seeing the smoke. I have a John Deere that does that, it started doing it after the second year of service, and it doesn't have many Hrs on it it bugs me but I try to ignore it.