Gwbarm

It cranked on starting fluid before you replaced the fuel pump, I would check wiring in that area to make sure nothing got unplugged and check fuses , starter cuytout relay, and key switch, make sure you are getting power in all these places.

They sound OK, what happens when you try to shift it, what happened when it stopped shifting.

I would change the oil and filter take a line off the cooler and flush it out good.

I found out the plastics im working on had actually been painted, and it was not just a rattle can job, I have tried two different paint strippers and neither one in even making a dent in this paint its going to be a tough one. This is all the paint stripper did and neither of them said safe for plastics. My only conclusion is this is an Acrylic Laquer paint job a very tough paint to remove. The next thing im going to try is Laquer Thinner I did find that 0000 steel wool will get it but very time consuming, just today I tried spraying the steel wool with carb cleaner and that worked fairly better, but you need to neutralize it quickly so i sprayed it quickly with plastic protectant. Looking much better but a lot of work involved, so my wife was going to Walmart I said bring me some Laquer Thinner, well that went over like a brick, I knew she wasn't going to waste her time looking for useless stuff, and she said she couldn't find it, Yeah right! So I will pick some up tomorrow and update the progress.

I changed, the leaky gasket and oil on the Big Bear today, I put this Shell Rotella in about 2 months ago after I got the engine unstuck with very little milky looking oil in it, still looks like muddy water, and I have run it very little. I cranked it with the new oil and it runs very well and the gears all work so that is a plus. I wasn't sure if the clutches might be stuck as well. Going to run this oil a little bit and drain it as well along with changing the filter again.

A lot depends on how the machine is treated and maintained, anything above 5000 is generally considered high mileage on an ATV that you are buying used and you don't know anything about. If you know the machine and it has been well treated and maintained expect 7- 10 thousand.

I think while sitting on it to adjust you need to remove the air tube on the left side to access the carb, I tried several different things small ratchet with screw driver bit, shorty screw driver and I think I ended up using a flexible screwdriver, but I can't remember if that was on the sportsman or the scrambler I know it was the 500 engine .

They have slightly different part numbers, the only difference was the first 3 numbers, which I was surprized at for a 10 year span, I would have expected completely different part numbers, so it may work. Never done it so I can't be certain.

Looks like you doing great! Just be careful until you are all healed up, don't want to end up back in the hospital.

The timing marks are on the rotor, is this the correct stator for the bike, or did you replace stator and rotor.

I would get a manual if you don't already have one and go through the starting circuit wiring diagram, it could be something as simple as a starter cutout relay. Are you kidding no such thing as a junk honda and you got two. I still have an 87 250 as good as the day I bought it.

It acts like the main jet is stopped up, but you cleaned that, so im thinking maybe some of the silicone you say melted may have made its way into the carb, I would check for that if you haven't already done so.

What year is the Timberwolfe and the Moto 4 harness.

I ran across this Tso Tso 110 review on you tube, thought it might help, the kid did a great job on the review:

Found this information not sure if this is yours or not: TaoTao 110cc ATV – ATA 110B TaoTao 110cc ATV – ATA 110 B1 TaoTao 110cc ATV – ATA 110 B3 TaoTao 110cc ATV – ATA 110 H1 TaoTao 110cc ATV – ATA 110 H4 All these models boasted an automatic transmission with reverse, full suspension, a multitude of color options, and tons of safety features parents would love. They had bike-like handlebars that provide the young rider good control of the quad. The rear rack offered an 11-lb (5 Kg) carrying capacity – great for snacks and some protective gear. Full floorboards allowed for sure footing while riding on bumpy or wooded trails.

Interesting I’m not familiar with it let me see what I can find out

Sounds like they are all stuck together, can you free them up. is this with them still in the clutch basket.

Just checking to see which differential oil everyone is using: Valvoline, Lucas, Honda,Yamaha etc.

It must have a centrifugal clutch, no gear shifter, do you see what appears to be a belt housing, no markings for a reverse switch.

Sorry you are having this trouble on one so new, I would suspect your starter cutout relay, not letting power go past the relay, but I haven't worked on one this new, so it could be other safety electronics I don't know about.

Intake .004-.008 Exhaust .008-.012

I usually look at manualslib.com sometimes find one.

I did start the big bear again today, it start so easily with the right carb on it, engine sounds a little rattly to me but no smoke whatsoever ever, it does go away when I rev it up, I haven't checked the idle speed yet it may need to be idled up, but it sounds good to me where it is, and if you noticed I have a little leak from the stator cover, I was expecting it, aftermarket gasket didn't fit it exactly right, got a new OEM one , just got to get it installed. IMG_3766 2.mov

At this point I can tell you what doesnt work, haven't been able to find the stuff that the guy on you tube used, permatex paint stripper safe for plastics, I went to Walmart , which I never do, I avoid it like the plague, except when I need oil. I needed gear oil to change the differential oil, only to find the one they had was super tech, that was the only brand on the shelf, with no friction modifiers built in for wet brakes, so didn't get that, plus they were low in stock in everything, really gone down hill since covid. Any way I ended up buying 2 paint strippers one made by rustoleum for removing clear coat base coat, did nothing but make the paint rough, and I went over it with a green scrubby pad with the stripper still on it. I next used a 2 minute paint remover I think it was made by clean strip, also did nothing, also went over it with the scrubby pad , and neither of these said it was safe for plastic, but tried it on a cheap plastic funnel first, and all it did was take the gloss off. So I kind of knew it wasn't going to work. So this is either a really hard Acrylic Laquer paint or the products are weak, maybe both. I get more paint off by sanding with 220 grit, which I may have to do to get it off.

What do you see in the inspection hole, there should be a T and an F.