Gwbarm

Just now seeing your post, did you get your lights figured out.

Put it in the same position that the old one came off, the wires should only reach the connectors in one position. Plus there should be a rubber grommet that fits in a slot on the case, line that up. I know this is an older post and you have probably already figured it out, but im just now seeing it.

The last 3 I bought from Amazon SLA/AGM stated in the listing, I have not had any problems so far, made by Mighty Max. This one was for my Yamaha, but im sure they are available for honda. I looked everywhere and this was the cheapest. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719R6X59?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I got the front brakes fixed, I was so convinced it was the caliper seals, that I ordered a set of new calipers, got all of the mud chiseled away so I could free up the bleeder valves and one was stuck in the open position, assuming previous owner never finished the job, decided brakes were just a luxury anyway. That is where my fluid was coming from. So before i put on the new calipers I decided to give these a try. Got my new master cylinder installed filled with fluid, started looking for my brake bleeder, hadn't used it in a while, must have been a longer while than I thought, because the pump seals had gone bad. I hate having to stop and go to the store, kind of puts a kink in your routine, and takes a little while to get back on track. So I devised a bleeder, I know, why didn't you just pump and open and pump and open, that's too easy, I have to make things complicated, so I devised a brake bleeder and it worked very well. I generally use this to suck oil out of places that I don't want it or add oil to tight places, like differentials. Got the old fluid out of the lines, nothing but water was in the rubber seal, reservoir was dry, i cycled fluid several times through the line to make sure I got all the crud out, closed the valves and had a nice firm lever. Not factory issue, but it works.

Rancher 350 is a nice bike, it should be a fun project.

They are more like the Jeeps were in the old days, before the Hummer took over.

Thats kind of annoying I think I ended up buying a set of harbor freight impact sockets fairly reasonable to get one that big. I did find this video , it might help. Although it is a 420

Very impressive lineup, thanks for the info, Can -Am is really producing some nice rides.

Thumbs up for Polaris, very impressive vehicle. Rugged and tough looking!

I have revisited your photo of the bent frame, I have been thinking about what I would do in your situation, their are places that specialize in frame straightening, I wouldn't do that personally only because im cheap, plus you can sink a lot of money into old bikes in a hurry. I would probably use the 2 tree method with either a winch or com along, put some tension on it, put some heat on it but not so much it will damage anything, then us a big hammer. Im not really sure how much tension it will need so a comalong and big chain might be better option. Don't want the small winch cable to snap when you are close by.

I have not found one that is free, there are many that will tell you complete history if you pay them, I personally have not done that.

Are. you talking about the clutch adjustment or linkage adjustment.

Turn the pilot air screw counterclockwise a half-turn at a time, while watching the tachometer. Stop when the idle speed begins to increase, then turn the screw clockwise a quarter-turn. If the idle speed does not increase after more than two full turns, reset the screw to its 2 1/2 turn position; repeat this step and turn the screw clockwise instead of counterclockwise. You don't have to use a tach if you don't have one you can hear when the engine increases speed it will increase to a point and start to decrease in speed turn it back until its at the highest speed . Then reset the idle speed.

Welcome!

I know, you have done a lot of work, hopefully it end up being something simple, but it does seem carb related.

Something could be draining the battery, did you check to see if it was still charged.

Just a note, the centrifugal clutch on a TRX350 is left hand threads, you might already know that, just thought I would mention it.

Still pecking away at the plastic , you can see in the background of my last photo I have tried everything in my cleaning cabinet, I ended up going back to Walmart Mart, again, and got some Rustoleum Aircraft Remover, supposedly the good stuff definitely not safe for plastic, or so it says, I used it anyway, im not sure it worked any better than the 2 minute stripper that was half the price. I did come to one conclusion, these ATV plastics are tough, not one of these strippers I used hurt the plastic at all, I expected at least a little fading but not even that happened. I just started using the Aircraft Remover on the tank cover it seems darker at the bottom than at the top, I thought is was paint, let set for 45 minutes, nothing came off, Im beginning to think the plastic is just discolored on it maybe from years of spilling gas.

I had this happen to a Honda once, I cleaned carb a multitude of times never had such a problem, changed jets and needle, no help, never got it to idle correctly, like you said over 2000 RPM I could use it barely, but annoying, I ended up replacing the carb and it ran perfect, still don't know what was wrong with the old carb. I would double check the jets again make sure there's not one down in a hole you missed, I have done that before, and make sure you take out the emulsion tube and clean it. As far as the wires go it appears to me to be a carb heater, can't really see it good, if it is you might try unplugging it , sometimes they can cause a grounding issue.

I have patched many with gas tank epoxy putty, it depend on where it is leaking and how big the hole is as to how well the patch works.

Nice picks, I don't look at new ones that often, looks like the Grizzly and Rancher hasn't changed much, the Outlander looks wicked, really like that one.

If it is an original Mikuni Carb: Float height 13mm .51 inches ● Measure the distance from the front mat- ing surface of the float chamber (gasket removed) to the top of the float

That looks like a nice one, it actually looks a lot like the Harbour Freight one only black and electric. The other reason I never bought one is it ties up a lot of space for something I don't use that often, but lately I have been needing one quite a bit. So im looking around.

Like you mentioned earlier most of the 2000s showed a 2w/4w drive button, maybe the Big Bear never had that, both the Big Bear and Kodiak both had YFM400 model numbers with different letters at the end, all of the Kodiaks I have looked at had this button and Automatic Transmission. If you wanted a manual trans get Big Bear if you wanted an automatic get Kodiak.

All of the above, in combination is actually working, it has been very Time consuming but I am finally making progress. It seems once I got the top layer off the rest is starting to come off a little at a time. This is my procedure: I wipe it down with Laquer thinner, that seems to soften the paint a little, them I go over it with paint stripper really thick, when you think it's really thick, do some more, forget about it for an hr and come back and use a plastic paint scraper, like the one for spreading bondo, get as much off as possible with that , just started doing that but it really helps more than I thought it would. Them I finish up with steel wool I have been using 000 but I went a little courser 00, get as much off as possible, there as still areas that are thicker that it didn't penetrate, so now do it all over again, and a little more comes off each time I do this. I also spray it down with protectant after I finish each layer, to help the plastic. The original red is really starting to pop out now, so im getting there. The nooks and crannies are hard to get to to get off, but its coming along. Back panel a mess just getting started, here you can see more of what I am referring to. I wouldn't spend this much time if the panels weren't in such good shape no cracks or bad areas.