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Answer to quiz : - good mechanics -

WHOA... MY REPLY WAS NOTED AS NEGATIVE AND JERKY I REALLY DIDNT MEAN TO CAUSE THAT, SERIOUSLY... I APOLOGIZE TO ANYBODY THAT I MAY HAVE DISRESPECT MAYBE MY LACK OF ENGLISH OR BECAUSE I WAS TIRED AFTER 12 HR WORK, OR BEEN A MEXICAN THE PEPPER I USE IS TOO MUCH, PERHAPS I EXPRESS BIT TOO MUCH MY JERK-MECHANIC-JERK-ATTITUDE, MAYBE IM JUST A BIG JERK. IN ANY CASE, MY DEEPEST AND SINCERE APOLOGIES IF YOU DONT WANT ME TO GIVE ANY INPUT OR HELP I WILL UNDERSTAND JUST LET ME REPLY TO 1 EMAIL AND IM GONE, I HAD JUST FINISHING IT WHEN I SAW OTHER REPLIES AGAIN, MY APOLOGIES MESSAGE: """OH WISE ONE do you not think it could be rings since it goes away on warmup? YOU: unknown Loud one ME: Yamaha mechanic since 1976. Don't appreciate being called a bad mechanic. That's ONE""" REPLY: SORRY FOR THE MISUNDERSTANDING I NEVER SAID OR IMPLIED THAT YOU WERE A BAD MECHANIC, I DIDN'T EVEN KNOW YOU WERE ONE. ""Loud"" ??? , DON'T KNOW........BUT IF I WAS, MY SINCERE APOLOGIES. I WAS JUST TRYING TO LEND A HAND TO A STRANGER. ""unknown"" ???, COOL, THANKS, MAY BE I WON'T HAVE TO WORK SO MUCH AND I'LL HAVE TIME TO HIT THE TRAIL WITH MY GIRL. LET ME QUOTE MYSELF : ""DONT LET THEM GIVE US MECHANICS A BAD REPUTATION, WE ALREADY HAVE ONE"" SOMETHING LIKE THAT, SEE THE ""US"" ? IF YOU NOTICE, THE GOAL OF MY WORDS WERE TO PROTECT GOOD MECHANIC REPUTATIONS FROM PHONY, TRICKY, LYING, BAD MECHANIC REPUTATIONS, WHICH UNFORTUNATELY, OFTEN CROSS PATHS WITH US AND THE GENERAL PUBLIC AS WELL, AND CUSTOMERS USUALLY REMEMBER THE BADDD... THUS THE BADDD REPUTATION, WITCH GOOD MECHANICS DON'T NEED, AGREE??? NOW, I MAY DISAGREE WITH YOU ON : ""OH WISE ONE do you not think it could be rings since it goes away on warmup?"" ALLOW ME TO RETORT : AS YOU MAY KNOW, VALVE SEALS ARE MADE OF RUBBER, THEY GET WORN JUST LIKE ANY OTHER PART IN AN ENGINE, THEY ALSO DETERIORATE BY HEAT, MAKING THE RUBBER HARD AND BRITTLE, THEY SUSTAIN THIS CONDITION WHEN COLD, BUT ONCE THEY HEAT UP, THEY BECOME SOFT AGAIN, CLOSING THAT TINY GAP THAT CAUSES THE SMOKE. JUST LIKE THE SEALS, THE RINGS TAKE A LOT OF WARE AND TEAR, CREATING A LIL' GAP WHERE OIL SIPS THRU, BUT CONTRARY OF SEALS, WHEN THE RINGS HEAT UP, NOT THEY BECOME SOFT, NOT THEY EXPAND ENOUGH TO CLOSE THAT LIL' GAP. HENCE THE SMOKE WHEN YOU FIRE UP YOUR MOTOR, AND WHEN IT WARMS UP IT QUIT SMOKING IF THE PROBLEM WAS THE RINGS, IT WILL SMOKE ALL THE TIME IN ANY CASE, IF IT WAS MY BIKE, AND IF I THINK IS THE RINGS, I WOULD GO AND REPLACE 'EM, SINCE I TOOK THE HEAD OFF, I WOULD RE-SEAT THE VALVES AND REPLACE THE SEALS, THAT IS A GIVEN, ON THE OTHER HAND, IF I KNOW THE SEALS ARE FAULTY, I WOULD GO AND REPLACE 'EM, I DONT HAVE TO PAY MECHANIC'S FEES, RIGHT? , SO I WOULD SPEND A BIT OF TIME, AND A BIT OF MONEY TO REPLACE THE RINGS, JUST BECAUSE I'M THERE, JUST A COUPLE OF BOLTS MORE, THEN I DONT HAVE TO WORRY FOR THEM FOR A LONG TIME. WIN-WIN SITUATION, ME THINKS SOMETHING THAT PUZZLES THE OL' NOGGIN IS : WHY, ""ME: Yamaha mechanic since 1976"" , HAS PUZZLE NOGGIN 'BOUT THIS ??? JUST FOR THE RECORD, COUPLE YEARS AGO I MADE A FUNNY (JERKY) SIGN AND POSTED IT IN MY SHOP, THE LAST LINES READ: "SORRY FOR THE RUDENESS, BUT WE MECHANICS ARE UGLY, SMELLY, DRUNK, BAD TEMPERED AND LOUD" FROM: "unknown Loud one" PS: QUIZ.....: DO YA KNOW WHAT MAKES THE WHEELS GO ROUN' AND ROUND' ???? I APOLOGIZE AGAIN FOR MY JERKINESS BYE BYE

DUDE I GOT A YFZ 450S ServMan.pdf ALSO GOT YFZ450T PARTS CATALOG.pdf IF ANY GOOD TO YOU, LET ME KNOW I WOULD UPLOAD IT FOR THE COMUNITY, BUT IM TO DAM STUPID, AND MY COMPUTER IS WORSE, SO YA SEE MY DILEMA ?? I CAN SEND THEM TO YOU, THEN U DO REST IF U SMARTER THAN ME

Sorry for the outcome but hundred dollars for the fixing? Exelent!!! Just curious.. Trx300? Zztop?

Friend i dont know how this website works, probably never find out i just printed this on another message hope i can help o.k. So it sputters and backfires, but, how the plug looks like when you change it? This sparkplug description means a lot when working on engines and dont see it front and personal. First, quick repair check yar throttle cable for slack, too much is bad eaven if it is ok, i whould recommend to open the throttle case, there is an electrical gizmo, little switch it is. Dont remember very good, but i think the switch should remain close if you give gas, or not give gas fire your bike give it gas and see the switch action you can close it by hand and may get a different output now you may find out if and how set an adjustment for this cable if not.. Well more info.,. And probably carb time.. Let me know ps did you check for mice condominiums on the air filter box? Did you store or did not use your bike for some time? For this one is easy

Sir i dont know you, and i dont know how this website works at all, i just know 2 things, 1- i'll try to give advise once in a while if its ok with u guys 2- i know atv's i happend to come across this site when looking for a free download service manual, so far i havent find any, well, thats the web for ya.... Anywho... Back to trx no wheels spining you lack some info. Like is it a trx 300, trx350 etc.....my best bet is a trx300, cadillacs of the dirt roads you mention no engine misbehaving, and never mention any kind of noise, thats goood loosing an universal shaft or the differential whould make significant noise, and notice weeks ago, unless you were listening zztop on your walkman (my favorite) so this is my best bet. Hope it is easy check: Go to the back of the atv. Get hold of the rear rack and crouch. Now move the bike left and right... See any movement on the wheels compare to the axle or the rest of the bike??? Now you may notice some clicking noise if so, you need a new axle and hubs, hub nuts where a bit loose, dirt and friction did the rest if you dont have the resourses for new parts, you can go to a welding shop, your friend next door may have a mig or an arc welder, take wheels off, take hubs off, clean the splines, put hubs back, tigth the hub nut as much as you can with impact whrench, now weld hub to axle around the inside,(brake side and differential side) now weld 4 good poins around hob to nut side, just to keep it balanced, if not, the weld inside will brake this weldin is easy to take off later, by means of hacksaw or any power tool, and will be able to install new parts (cutting just the welding, not the axle right?) hope this help you let me know if it did happy trails..

DUDE IF IT IS A KLF250 A1 GOES LIKE THIS (A BIT MESSY, BUT SECOND NUMBERS ARE FOR KLF250A2) Throttle Case and Cable Throttle Lever Free Play 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.) – – – Carburetor Make/Type MIKUNI VM24SS – (A BIT MESSY, BUT SECOND NUMBERS ARE FOR KLF250A2) Main Jet #115 #120 – – – Main Air Jet 1.0 1.8 – – – Needle Jet O-6M O-2M – – – Jet Needle 5GN64-1 5GN74-1 – – – Pilot Jet #30 #22.5 – – – Pilot Air Jet 1.3 1.0 – – – Pilot Screw 1 1/2 turns out 2 1/2 turns out – – – Starter Jet #45 – – – Idle Speed 1 300 ∼ 1 400 r/min (rpm) – – – Service Fuel Level 5 ± 1 mm (0.20 ± 0.04 in.) – – – below bottom edge of carburetor body Float Height 22.6 ± 2 mm (0.89 ± 0.04 in.) DOESN'T SAY WHAT NEEDLE POSITION, BUT USUALLY 3rd, (MIDDLE) HAVE FUN

Hey man i think you mean you were able to cranck your engine with the key on or off that bike only works with conecting power, not grounding the cdi you mention getting only 3.5 volts when engine running, no battery conected your voltage regulator may be faulty but to be sure, conect battery, check voltage on battery before you even turn the key on now turn lights off and any other accesories you have off (have you??) turn key on and kickstartit, when runing, check the battery voltage again, if its lower you have a battery voltage winner just in case, disconect the three prung conector on the left side under the plastic corner that attaches to the gas tank, the one with 3 yellow wires, from the generator (stator), check continuity between them, it should be zero, also check each wire to ground, should be infinity, in this case voltage regulator is a winner before u spend big bucks on regulator ask a friend whith same bike to trade regulators just to test, no harm will be done, no matter wich regulator you conect on what bike, i think all year models are the same, may be different on 92 or 95 models, but if conectors the same and wire color equal, no problemo, then make the same test on battery voltage, key off, then bike running, voltage should be allways higher if your regulator proves good, then im affraid you need a new stator, i had that head exploding problem a few years back, when the stator checked ok and the regulator also, but by pulling the stator out, there was visible burns on one coil, so i had to re-wireit , too bad you are too far, i could rewire that stator myself for you sorry for misspelling, keyboard has mind of itself good luck

Dude in my experiance with quads, (bout 25 years) i can tell u a cuple of quick fixin' basics were u stuck in mud? Rainy? Or silty like hell? Or stuck in branches and shrubs? 1 there are 2 fine cables running up the atv from the hubs, check for damage, also take off the center front plastic cover, no tools needed, and check if they got disconected, 2 hubs at the time not working feels easy to trace, if yor bike has the big panel with all conections visible (center front plastic) check for bad conections on grounds, brown cables me thinks 2 conector to your 4x4 right handle, they get dirty very easy, pull the conector, 2 lil' locks easy to press, and clean the conectors, also you can pull each wire out of the conector and giv'it a lil' tight up, hard to explain and my english not so good, but i bet u can figure it out, one thing, dont pry hard or start bangin with hammer, usually people tend to do that and make more damege than good, and end up been my clients oh... 3 check for continuity between the cables that go to hubs (disconect first) also check for power between cables (conected) that will help u at least to narrow down the problem happy trails