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ddiggerr

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Everything posted by ddiggerr

  1. ddiggerr

    ddiggerr

  2. I went out today to look things over. Someone mentioned to check the flywheel (magneto) to see if it different than the one from the running trike. I actually have three. So, I put all three side by side to compare and they are identical. Next I decide to see if maybe one of the wires from the stator was rubbing and was shorting out. Nope nothing there. After going back and forth between the 2 trikes looking at the stators, I noticed that the pulse coil and source coil was installed differently on the freshly rebuilt trike. When I put everything back together after cleaning off the crud, I had the wires facing out on both of them, and they apparently need to be facing in. That is one thing the manual does not show. I had actually installed them backwards. I put everything back together, primed it with a shot of carb cleaner, because I don't have the air box on yet, and it fired up. I threw on the plastics and took off out of the garage. Now I just need to take care of the exhaust leak where the pipe meets the engine.
  3. 1983 Yamaha YT175 Fired up for the first time after total rebuild. Now I have no idea whats going on. Compression is 120, new plug, new fuel and oil lines, new choke and fresh fuel. Carb cleaned and reeds are good (no gaps). Will not start without choke and stalls out when choke is off. Played with choke adjustment and doesn't change. It fires up first pull and only idles if I play with idle screw. As soon as I touch throttle, it goes bezerk on me and I have to shut it down as you can see in video ....... You can here the recoil lever tinging in the video. I lost the spring. D"oh!! So far I have swapped ignition coil, spark plug, CDI with no change. I have removed flywheel to check keyway and it is where it should be. Checked resistance on stator ... I get 10ohms +/- 10% on pickup coil within specs as per manual and I get 273ohms on charge coil. Manual states 300ohms +/- 10%, so that is also within spec. I have also swapped out jet needle and played around with different settings. Eventually I put it back to the 3rd line. The engine already has new seals and bearing so I am completely baffled as to what I am missing here. Any takers? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks I have also swapped carbs from a running YT175. Same results.
  4. If you look at pic closely, you can see the frame has a slight twist in it. The handle bars have been leveled and now the motor is sitting higher on the right. When it is sitting on all 3 wheels, the front is then lower on the right. What I have done is already taken in to shop and heated and pulled the majority of the bend out, however, it doesn't quite straighten. The down tube in front of motor looks as though it was broken by PO and welded. Should I cut this and attempt to take twist out, or do you think this is driveable the way she is? The difference is about an 1/8" off level at the top of steering tube with bare frame on table, but looks worse when sitting on all 3. Just looking for advise, before going any further. Thanks
  5. Morning, Picked up a few new toys and in the process of rebuilding. The links for the ATC service manuals produce an error on the Rapidshare site. Thanks
  6. OK. Would a flywheel with the numbers FF4554 4192 work in place of a flywheel with numbers FF45 4192 ?? I am not sure what the differences are as I don't have the FF4554 in hand to compare. Just don't want to purchase one online only to get screwed if the 2 don't match Polaris Ind website shows the 1988 is not interchangeable with anything else, however, I see several other models, posted online, using the same flywheel and has the same numbers stamped on face. Model number shows as different though. Getting confused as to what is and isn't interchangeable.
  7. I think I might have a problem. Does anyone know where to find a good used one or maybe has one they are willing to sell?
  8. Taking my son out for the first real ride on the Big Bear after rebuild on the Red River Selkirk, Manitoba [ATTACH]1537[/ATTACH]
  9. Found a new problem . I went for a long cruise last night to test it out. It seems to have engine knock at high RPMs. Probably just needs the vavles adjusted, so thats next on the list tomorrow. Also the front diff, driveshaft, and axles were removed prior to purchase so I'll be on the hunt for those missing items. Until then, thanks for all the help and CDI
  10. [ATTACH]1476[/ATTACH] Finally back together. One more trip to store to get replacement battery cables and the rest can wait until spring
  11. Stator arrived today and I wasted no time getting it installed. I was surprised when it fired up first try. Took it for a rip through the snow out front and buried it .... hahaha A few more things to put back together and it will be good to go
  12. CDI rewiring finally done after 3-4 hours of searching the web to match everything up. Now just waiting for ingition coil and stator/pickup from dealer. Hopefully today
  13. Figured out all the wire colors from stator/pickup for the 1995, just need to match them up with a 1990/91 CDI as the plug with 4 wires are different color. Not sure if just putting then in same position in plug end is all i need to do
  14. Hmmm .... checked the ignition coil today. My multi reader has settings of 20K, 200K, 2000K, 200, and 2000 My readings were: Primary coil at 200 = 1.0 ohms Secondary at 20K = 17.07 ohms I was not getting a reading for the primary on anyother setting. The reading for the secondary was about the same on others. I even cut back the end of the plug wire 1/2" with no change. Going by these readings, is the ignition coil my culprit? My source is reading 240 ohms and my pickup is reading 280 ohms. According to manual these are way off. Man .... I am so confused on these readings. Not sure whats good and whats bad ...
  15. Grrrrr ..... New question. I believe I have a switch on rear brake lever that requires me to have brake applied to start and at the same time the run switch needs to be on, key switch on, and bike in neutral. My issue is, all I need to do is turn key, put into neutral and push start button and motor turns over. Is it suppose to turn over even if the kill switch is set to off, brake not applied or is it suppose to do nothing until all 4 requirements are set? I find it odd that it would even turn over with kill switch set to off.
  16. Does anyone have an actual wiring diagram for the ATV listed in title? It's seems the manual posted here online does not match a 1995 model when it comes to the color schemes of the wires. I've also searched other places (except a dealer) and no luck Thanks Coming from stator/pickup the wire colors are: 2 wires (red and white) pickup coil 3 wires (all yellow) these go to regulator 2 wires (brown and green) ?? The green, brown, red, and white all come together into one connector at the CDI. Pictures below: Haven't figured where the black and black/white or the green/white, white/black, and yellow/black wires go to as of yet from the CDI, but I'm guessing there for the kill switches and lights
  17. Finally got out with camera . It's about 90% complete. Just waiting on CDI and need to paint plastics. [ATTACH]1445[/ATTACH]
  18. **SOLVED** Readjusted everything and they seem to be working now. MAN !!! are my fingers numb. Friggn' cold outside! I adjusted the rear brakes per manual, however I will also be replacing brake handle cable and need to figure out this rear brake pedal rod. Does anyoe know what the correct length of this rod is suppose to be from end to end? Once I hook it up and spin on the wing nuts (as far as they will go on), my foot still almost touches the ground when the brakes are applied. The brake lever on the brakes themselve stop where they should, however the rod appears to be too long and gives alot of travel, too much travel. Will attept to attach photos in a bit
  19. It's been confrmed, I need to replace the CDI. I spoke with the Yamaha dealer here and he advised me that the previous owner brought the quad in to be checked out. I was also advised that the previous owner was told he needed to replace the CDI. It would have been nice to know this information when I bought it. Oh well, maybe he thought I wouldn't buy it if I knew about the CDI. Next I need to replace the intake manifold, as the rubber holding it together tore in half. That can of worms is getting bigger everyday .......
  20. Just went out and checked plug and it is an NGK DR8EA.
  21. Opened dust cover on rear brakes and got them apart. PO had busted the wings off wing nut at end of brake pedal rod and the brake lever wing nut was seized on. What a pain getting those off. Brakes were just caked with more mud and crud. Got new brake lever cable and will get everything cleaned and back together. I will need to figure out the brake pedal rod though. Looks like its too long and was replaced with whatever was available to the PO. Never did get axle nut loose and at this point, I'm not going to try breaking it loose at this time.
  22. Update on the Bear. Tore into carb and cleaned it up. Didn't need much cleaning as it appeared spotless and all gaskets already looked new. Found the rubber on the intake between carb and motor was torn and split in 2. For now going to use a plumbing coupling as a temporary fix. Starting on rear brake caliper as it was caked with mud, hay, an grass. The brake pedal arm looks bent and not really doing anything. The hand brake lever is loose and sloppy on the brake mechanism on rear wheel. I took cover off and rotor looks good, but I did notice I cannot line up the marks on the arm at the back as it was installed the wrong way. It appears I need to remove axle nut to take off wheel hub to remove brakes. Easier said then done. I've been soaking it in PB Blaster then using a 3/4" drive breaker bar and beating it with BF hammer and haven't budge it. Will keep trying .........
  23. Just curious. Would you know if a CDI for a 1996 Yamaha Warrior YFM350 is compatible with a 1995 Big Bear YFM350? I can purchase one at a real steal of a deal, but would only purchase if it's compatible. Thanks
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