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Similar Forum Topics
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By Topendcol
First issue was fuel pump wont start once ignition has been turned on. Replaced the pump as I had one on hand, than noticed no power so replaced the fuel pump relay as that was were i traced the power to. Still nothing so further inspection looks like signal is coming from the PCM (FLR B20) but not switching the the brown wire to the fuel pump. Ive checked the operation of the bank angle sensor and it appears operational. Fuses and wiring all appear OK. The engine stop relay also tests OK. Ive been through the repair manual and diagrams but to no avail. Fully stumped, any tips would be helpful. Thanks
Col
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By p5200
I'm assuming, it's alright to test the engine after adjusting valves without the rear axle installed? Can someone please verify this? I'm waiting on axle parts and wanting to get that done while waiting. Thanks! 🙂
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By p5200
I'm having trouble identifying Mark. I know where the mark is in the Stator cover. Is the T at about, the 12 o'clock position in this photo? I've got to buy another Stator cover as the one I have has a hole at the bottom of it. Due to failing eyes, I have a lot of trouble anymore. Thanks! 🙂
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By mga
I have to replace all 4, how much is involved? Will they slide out of the front yoke? Or, do the boots just slide over the wheel end?
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By skittle021
So I've got a Hisun 550 (clone of a Yamaha Rhino 660) that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
Photos:
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