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Posted

I know this has been talked about, so i did some research.

After my research, i started buying parts.

Here are the parts you need:

51380-HP7-A00, left front upper control arm

51370-HP7-A00, right front upper control arm

51350-HP5-600, right front lower control arm

51360-HP5-600, left front lower control arm

44615-HP5-600, front drive hubs (need 2)

53521-HP5-600, tie rods (need 2, this is just the adjuster rod, not the tie-rod ends)

51200-HP5-600, right steering knuckle

51250-HP5-600, left steering knuckle

53235-HP5-600, steering arm (connects the tie rod ends to the steering shaft)

23611-HP5-600, "final shaft", goes inside the engine, provides power to front and rear driveshafts)

40400-HP5-600, front driveshaft

44250-HP7-A31, right front axle

44350-HP7-A31, left front axle

11300-HP5-000, front crankcase cover

50350-HP5-600, front differential support bracket

41400-HP5-A50, front differential unit

You also need the 4wd shift lever and the cable that connects it to the differential. there is not a part number for the whole assembly, just look on ebay. thats where i got mine.

Now on to the good part, the turning of wrenches:

Here is the engine before removal:

IMG_20151128_143827.jpg

IMG_20151128_143843.jpg

after removal:

IMG_20151128_160214.jpg

front differential in position:

IMG_20151129_135507.jpg

^^^notice the "TRX420TM" decal, indicating 2wd

Here is a pic of the "final shaft", comparing the 2wd (in my hand) to the 4wd (in the engine).

IMG_20151129_135842.jpg

^This is the most difficult part of this conversion, removing and opening the engine to swap out this shaft. However, there is a lovely video on youtube showing how to rebuild this engine and they clearly show the steps to remove/replace the rear cover and final shaft. Dont forget to remove the front cover before installing the new shaft, it will not fit thru the 2wd front cover.

link to video>:

once the new shaft is installed:

IMG_20151129_140055.jpg

you will need to install the front and rear covers using sealant, make sure all shims/washers and o-rings are in place in the correct locations referencing the video above.

here is the right front corner mostly assembled:

IMG_20151130_124400.jpg

and fully assembled with hub, rotor, and brake caliper:

IMG_20151130_172332.jpg

I do have more pictures to upload, when i have more time i will update this further

  • Like 2
  • 9 months later...
Posted (edited)

if anyone cares (which i doubt since its been 9 months since i posted this), i only spent $750 on the conversion overall. everything worked flawlessly first try. i used this honda to plow 30inches of snow from a steep 800ft driveway. never missed a beat.

 

it was WAY cheaper than selling my 2wd rancher at a big loss and buying a 4wd version. if you can turn a wrench this is not too difficult for you to do at home

Edited by killer420
  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted

it will probably cost a little more than it did for mine, i was able to source some a couple used parts for much less than new. For instance, a new front diff for mine was $675, i got a used one for $80. it may be more difficult to source used parts for such a new machine.

from some quick poking around on rockymountainatv.com using their Honda OEM catalog, it appears you will need to change your front knuckles, get front axles and differential, change front cover on engine, change final shaft in engine, change front tie-rods, add 4wd shifter and cable

 

 

if i have time tonight after work i will try to get you a list of part numbers you would need

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 9/23/2016 at 9:52 AM, killer420 said:

if anyone cares (which i doubt since its been 9 months since i posted this), i only spent $750 on the conversion overall. everything worked flawlessly first try. i used this honda to plow 30inches of snow from a steep 800ft driveway. never missed a beat.

 

it was WAY cheaper than selling my 2wd rancher at a big loss and buying a 4wd version. if you can turn a wrench this is not too difficult for you to do at home

I know this is an old post, but I too have the same 2W ATV and this would be so helpful for snowplowing, because with 2W drive you can forget about it.
Thanks for showing us the way, cost and pictures!

  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
Posted
On 5/16/2023 at 10:38 PM, cervenakrava said:

I know this is an old post, but I too have the same 2W ATV and this would be so helpful for snowplowing, because with 2W drive you can forget about it.
Thanks for showing us the way, cost and pictures!

Hey so I have done a ton of research because I have the same foot shift two wheel drive rancher and so what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the front engine cover, wears it final shaft sticks out of. I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can just get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher 

Note: since you guys were mentioning snow plowing, I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem 

FINAL SHAFT

23611-HR3-A40  =$80.48

 

BEARING

91006-HP5-601   =$11.11

 

OIL SEAL

91202-HR0-F01   =$ 7.94

 

COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE

11300-HR3-WB0   =$206.99

 

PROPELLER SH AFT

40400-HR3-A20   =$91.50

 

FINAL GEAR

41400-HR3-W50   =$714.88

 

FINAL CASE BRA CKET

50350-HR3-A20  =$7.40

 

FLANGE BOLT

95701-08016-08  =$1.49

 

R. SHAFT SET

44250-HR3-WB1  =$240.64

 

L. DRIVESHAFT

44350-HR3-WB1  =$240.64

This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4  lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace,  or craigslist

 

001

NUT, ADJUSTING 

41560-HP5-600

$6.51

 

002

CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 

41570-HR3-A21

$6.56

 

003

SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE 

41571-HP5-600

$1.95

 

004

CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE 

41573-HP5-600

$3.23

 

005

GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE 

41716-HP5-600

$3.12

 

006

LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 

54030-HP5-600

$8.91

 

007

PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 

54031-HP5-601

$10.87

 

008

BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 

54040-HP5-601 

$11.19

 

009

SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 

54041-HP5-600

$1.86

 

010

GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 

54050-HR3-A20

$4.55

 

011

GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 

54321-HP5-600

$8.95

 

X2 012

BOLT, FLANGE (6MM) 

90111-162-000

 

$2.54 

 

013

NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM) 

90343-ZE6-000

$1.70

 

014

JOINT B, BRAKE ARM 

95015-32001

$0.82

 

X3 015

BOLT, FLANGE (6X12) 

95701-06012-00

$1.34

 

 

Or Forman 520 w diff lock

 

FINAL GEAR

41400-HR4-A21  =$732.49

 

PROPELLER SHAFT

40400-HR4-A20  = $92.54

And you definitely need the sure four locker for this

Posted

How do you figure the front hubs and steering knuckles aren't needed  ?

And I presume since Killer in the first post reckoned we needed the steering rods and new upper and lower suspension arms, that they will be needed too ?

Posted

I have come to this conclusion because if you look at the parts diagram the steering, a-arms, and knuckles are all the same part numbers even up to the foreman and rubicons the only difference is they’re is a “puck” instead of the cv axle as seen in this picture

(it’s number 8 that I’m talking about)IMG_0270.thumb.png.1af0d1b035e8981de80f82581f85b490.png

  • Like 2
Posted

#15..  Oh ok.  You're right. Good spotting. I've never seen one like that, but I'm in New Zealand. Over here all the 2WD have a stub axle as part of the knuckle.

I still think you'd have to be careful to check exactly which model you have.. Some might not convert that easy. Not everyone gets the same spec bikes as America does.

Posted

Ah good point I never thought of other countries I will have to look into that. And to specify i am talking about the 14 to present  ranchers not the obs 07-13 ranchers like op was doing this to

Posted

They can have different specs in different markets, even when the model suffix is the same in some makes, and what's one year's model  in one country, can often be another year for another country too.

Anyone thinking of doing it really needs to check their exact bike against the parts lists I think.

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