Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thank you, you're the only person who has replied on any of the forums I have joined just to get this simple question answered.  I can't find the vin number though.  I've researched where it is supposed to be but it's not anywhere I've looked.  Dead end I guess.  Thanks for trying anyway though!

Posted

Has to be there look on the frame on the front end and on the swing arm also.  It is most likely on upper left frame under the fender.  Take a piece of sandpaper if you have to but it's there. 

  • Like 1
Posted

According to a  post in another  site : Try looking on the upper frame tube on the rear left side under the wheel well.

As  Frank  says .. There's  one  somewhere  on the  frame. 

Try  looking for a    number on the  motor  too. It  might be  possible to   id  it  from that .

 

  • Like 1
Posted

As  far  as  oil  is concerned,  you  likely  can't  go  wrong  with a 10w40 (MA  in the  specifications)  suitable  for motorcycles in the  engine  and  a  75-90 hypoid oil  in the differentials. According to  other forums on engine  oils   avoid the  "Energy  conserving"  oils. They  have  friction reducing additives  that  can  screw up  wet clutches.

  • Like 2
Posted

You do have to be careful to use the right oil. It has a wet clutch and you have to use the right oil.

The one picture is not enough to identify the machine. A front and rear picture could help. It looks like a 2001-2003 machine

possibly a 375cc.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By bigd764
      Anyone know what this thing is ?





    • By Charlesbrown
      I’m looking for a top end kit for a Yamaha. I would like to see how well the engine runs before spending $6-$7 hundred on oem. Niche has complete kits from $1-$2 hundred.  Anyone have experience with Niche or similar Chinese companies? 
    • By opnea
      Where do yall ride at in South Florida other than the MX track on Krome Ave?
    • By DayBreakJim
      So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
      Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
      Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!

      20230725_171507.mp4    
       
       
    • By psychodad
      Have a carb off an '07 Big Bear 400 that sat a couple of years, probably more.  Friend asked me to clean it, which I did, soaking the jets and spraying out all of the ports with carb cleaner as best I could.  Replaced o-rings, needle valve & seat, tweeked float level.  Bike starts and idles well but doesn't want to pick up above 1/4 throttle.  That would appear to be in the slide needle range.  Main jet is clean, needle is clean and straight, diaphragm good.  It seems I saw (in a diagram) a port that comes into the slide needle area from the side.  This would be in the carb body between the main jet and the throat of the carb.  I would like to soak the carb in Gunk Carb Cleaner, the gallon paint can with a little basket.  Curious what Mikuni uses for bearings and seals in the throttle shaft.  I'm guessing HDPE or Delrin, or maybe brass; not sure what effect Gunk would have on the polymers.  Has anyone actually soaked a carb in Gunk??  First hand knowledge, please, and what effect, if any, on the carb.  Pulling the throttle shaft out would be a last resort.  Getting the butterfly screws out and staked back in would seem to be a nightmare.
      Thanks
      Jim
×
×
  • Create New...