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1999 King Quad - general advice


Dra O
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1999 King Quad - recently inherited per grandfather in law's death - has 6100 miles (or hours... likely miles).  Brakes work, forward/reverse operable, lights intact, pulls bad to the right but has good general power.  Tires are literally bald.  I don't see any general leaking of fluids around engine.  Will only be using it for general things around my land - no racing/mudding.

Since I don't know the maintenance schedule (likely maintained fairly routinely), what things should I be looking for?

1) I want to look at/change oil - can do that - but was looking at youtube video - is that a rubber gasket i'll need to replace where the oil filter goes?  Is there a chance I won't have to replace said gasket if I'm careful?  It's no problem getting one online....

2) Will pull/inspect spark plug - likely replace.

3) What other general things would you guys recommend I focus on?  Or maybe I should just wait until something happens! 

Any advice appreciated.

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Dream Car Giveaway

Those older king quads last forever and are good machines. Not knowing what maintenance was done, I would change the oil/filter, change the air filter, replace the spark plug. The pulling is either from a bad tire having some issues causing the pull, brakes hanging up, ball joint or tie rod needing replacement or it took a hit and is out of alignment. Raise the front end and check to see if the ball joints and tie rods are tights. Here is a video of a ball joint check:

 

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Hi Dra O, I have a 98 model, I agree with AJ also my shop manual, not owners manual stresses changing the oil filter gasket every time, it's an O-ring and should come with the new filter and don't go cheap on the filter and good oil, SF or SG classification no synth. You can see mine and one of the uses it has in the Suzuki forums under ignition?'s. they are a solid machine and workhorse, Enjoy!

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I’ll get the o-ring - thanks for the advice.  Was hauling brush today and the Quad stopped.  Made a clicking sound while trying to start. Is this the starter?  Can a layman with a bit of small engine repair experience change it?  Battery is new.  Hate to be throwing a thousand questions at this forum since I’m new....

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Hi, well ignition issue fixed, now starter relay is clicking just like yours, Dra o , pulled off front fender to access that part, a pain in the #%@*,  wish they had engineered a hinge type of fixture so it was easier access, 🙄 anyway I will test this morning and let you know my results. Guess I'll also look for any wire rubbing signs or insulation issues and maybe a wash down of the frame and under side. bye for now

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It was, as some mentioned, the battery.  I had a cheap, tiny battery from Academy - worked only a few times - likely not enough juice but it was rated for atvs.  recharged the old one fully and it is working.  ordered some back 25x10x12 tires from ebay tonight for 115 clams - not a bad price - old ones worn nearly flat.

Are there any heavier duty batteries you guys recommend?  Are foreign batteries decent?  Big differences in prices.

And: taking off the fenders - there are Phillips head screws on outer and a nut of some sort inside fender wells.  I nearly stripped the outer screw at one place earlier.  What's an easy way to take off the screws?  Might need to bite the inside nut w/ a wrench....

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Best to  use  the same size  battery as  OEM,  brand doesn't really make   much difference.  I wouldn't be a bit surprised if you checked closely  some of the  American  branded batteries are actually  made offshore for  them.  Doesn't really  matter  whether  your  battery  is   made in  America , Canada , China  or  anywhere else. Look  for capacity  and dimensions that fit.and you  can  also  consider warranty  terms. The  batteries will  all  perform  nearly identical.  I  am  price  loyal. Best  price  gets  my nod when all else  is equal.

 

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If you are planning on doing your own work I recommend  purchasing a Clymers shop manual for your machine. you will need the vin# and mod /yr. You can find the vin on the left rear frame down tube. As for fender removal I use an air driven ratchet or impact screwdriver for the tough ones. A little spray of blaster and soaking time also helps. The nuts underneath are 9 or 10mm, I have CRS so you'll have to figure it out. The only other bolts are under the battery and underneath by the front shock mounts (2) these are 12mm. 2 screws,one each side at the frame down by the bottom of the mud guards. And of course the shifter knobs and shifter plate cover( remember to put the gas cap back on) and the remaining bolts/ screws. there are 2 at the steering post you can access by turning the wheels lock to lock. Then disconnect all the elec conn up front and have a helper guide the assembly off the bike. It is recommended to remove the front mounts for the rack( that you have removed? I omitted cuz I thought it was obvious🙄) but I have managed to pull the fender assy off without doing that. But if it's starting and running why bother, check oil and fuel and go ride! time for me to go mow!

20170506_161433.jpgmower.jpg

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