Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Freezeman

2005 Kaw KUF 650D no start issue

Recommended Posts

Well I came on here hoping to read a manual about the quad but found that I have to make some posts before that can happen, so here is one. 

I work on peoples stuff. Had this well used unit come to me with a no start issue. I found it had fuel  and spark was good but it only had 30 pounds of compression. I put each cylinder to TDC and feed the plug hole with a small amount of air pressure and could hear the escaping air coming out the carb openings. I then checked the valves lash at TDC and found that booth cylinders had 0 lash for the intake valves. I reset the lash to .003 for all the intake valves and reapplied a small amount of air pressure and the leaking of air was gone. I then spent a few hours screwing all the parts I had to take off, back together and then drove it out of the shop.

The lash was only 1/4- 1/2 a turn too tight that caused the valve to stay open just enough to make it not start. IMO the heads could use an overhaul some time soon as the valves and seats have become a bit warn.

These ATV's just have too much crap stuffed into a small space, I wounder how many fasteners are used to hold 1 ATV together?

Later, 

Edited by Freezeman
add some stuff
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Well this unit came back after it ran well for some time, This time it died while riding and will not restart.

This time I looked back into the valve operation and to my surprise I have no rocker arm movement of either the front or rear cylinder when rotating the crank, The pistons are moving up and down, I can turn it over by hand rather easily with the spark plugs out as there is no valve spring pressure resistance because the rocker arms are not moving.

 

I am rather puzzled... How could the two timing chains on each end of the crank running the two over head cams stop working at the same time?? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Something snapped, weather it be a shaft or the chains (doubtful that both chains would snap though.  So the chains have tension on them ? If so then it’s the cam chain drive shaft that snapped or the key way that holds that sprocket in place on the lower end.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Behind the flywheel, there's a chain from the crank to a shaft that the cam chains are connected to.  This shaft drives both cams.  I'd venture a guess that lower chain broke.  You've probably got some bent valves now also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed on the bent valves.  As soon as that shaft or sprocket went the valves and the piston collided.  So the piston is prob damaged also.  Start with pulling the head off and see what all that looks like.  There will def be a mark on the piston noticeable if the valves hit the piston.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Thanks for the tips. A separate shaft that turns booth cam chains... I am no longer puzzled as that has to be the heart of the problem. Tear it down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

very interesting!  I didnt know that just a small amount of play could cause loss of compression.  I would have been interested to know what caused the valve clearance to change.....enough to lose compression

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Jacob, Any time a valve or valves in this case do not close when they are supposed to you will have a loss of compression.

In my case with this unit it now makes sense that when I first found that the intake lash was too tight on booth cylinders   while checking it at TDC, The valve timing had changed some how. I originally thought it must be that the seats had receded a bit from wear and was happy that just a simple adjustment made it run again.

But now it came back with the lower chain that drives booth timing chains broken..  So the intake valves not closing all the way at TDC the first time I worked on it was from that lower chain stretching a bit causing all the cams timing events to be late or retarded.

Below is my attempt to post a picture of the broken chain. I now need to make or buy the "special tool" to pull the flywheel off the crank end. I hoard crap yet I can't find a 35MM 1.5 pitch nut to make my puller.  

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10215975557754824&set=a.1422066704716&type=3&eid=ARDFrorzbNPZWvb62q6P6YdhQm1uoEqedU7lHkNXVFWi_OG3Hx_s-hOTkj88wRYe0d-x776rjbyDpbga

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am wondering about pulling the heads. With the rockers off the valves both cylinders are equal and have just 10% leak down at BDC which isn't too bad with my cheap gauge. I have tested new motors at 8%.  So no hole in piston and if a valve is damaged it's not really noticeable.  

I got my flywheel puller ordered now I need to order the clutch puller bolt,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


On 3/18/2019 at 8:26 AM, Freezeman said:

I am wondering about pulling the heads. With the rockers off the valves both cylinders are equal and have just 10% leak down at BDC which isn't too bad with my cheap gauge. I have tested new motors at 8%.  So no hole in piston and if a valve is damaged it's not really noticeable.  

I got my flywheel puller ordered now I need to order the clutch puller bolt,

If you have just 10% leakage, I wouldn't bother pulling the heads.  It's a p.i.t.a. anyway.  If any of the valves were bent, you'd have 100% leakage.

I think I'd just replace the chain.  Retime the cams and call it good.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see now- it jumped time and he was measuring valve clearance without the cam at TDC.  how bad was it off?  if it stretched the timing chain, you probably want to order another one, and if it jumped a tooth, I would check the tensioner- be a pain if that happened again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

During his test on the valves he seen that there was a minimal loss. So #1 piston had not collided with the valves and not making a hole in the piston.  Secondly if the piston and valve collided that valve would be bent and not seat back in the head correctly leaving a gap for air to escape. 

The drive shaft that turns the sprocket that turns the timing chains has somehow someplace broken.  Not the chain it’s self.  Although the chain should be changed during this process it’s most likely fine. 

Basically he may have dodged a bullet here and wind up only replacing the broken part on the lower half of the engine instead of the  top end as well.  “Hopefully” 🙏🏻

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes The owner did dodge a bullet. If you look closely at my facebook pic you will see the sprocket and broken chain that is on the end of the drive shaft that turns the two cam chain sprockets above the flywheel.  There is 3 chains and three tensioners that operate the 2 OHC's there is also a 4th chain and tensioner in this area operating the oil pump.

I am replacing all 3 cam chains while I have it torn down this far. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Brock Kincaid
      Ok so just picked up an 02 ds 650 and the guy said he couldn't get it to start. He had a shop put new shims in it and I had them checked and they were ok now things I've done is new plugs even though guy had just put new plugs in it.. got new carb 42mm just like the one that was on it.. bought new intake manifold because the one that was on it someone got way to tweaked out and ported the shit out of it excuse my language but yeah so installed new intake manifold and it just won't start like its not getting enough fuel.  Timing seems to be right it does fire every now and again but just barely.. did a compression test today and it was at 90psi.. i know thats low but don't know where I'm losing compression.. valves we at .06 and .07 when checked im lost ive tried everything I know and can't figure it out
    • By Ajmboy
      View File 1984-1987 Suzuki LT185 Service Manual
      1984-1987 Suzuki LT185 Service and Repair Manual
      Submitter Ajmboy Submitted 09/13/2020 Category Suzuki ATV  
    • By Brent Wright
      What's a good size to start a 10 year old on?
    • By Brent Wright
      I give it gas then it dies.any advice to fix?
    • By oxidized_black
      View File 1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
      1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is one of the most common all-terrain vehicles on off-road trails that is geared toward novice riders and families. It’s also one of the smallest and most inexpensive ATVs on the market, with a retail price under $3,500, as of 2010. The Bayou 220 is Kawasaki’s only ATV of its size. The 220’s sibling is the larger Bayou 250 equipped with a 228cc engine.
      Engine
      The Bayou 220’s engine is a 215cc, four-stroke, shaft-driven, air-cooled model. Its bore measures 2.6 inches and the stroke is 2.4 inches. It features a relatively high 9.3:1 compression ratio with fuel delivered through a Mikuni VM24SS carburetor. The electronic ignition is Kawasaki’s DC-CDI. It also features a recoil backup as a starting system. The clutch is an automatic wet multidisc model with power delivered to the wheels via a five-speed transmission, according to ATV Source.
      Chassis
      The steel frame supports a front suspension with single A-arms and twin shock absorbers, with the rear suspension a Quad-Link system with two shocks. Front wheel travel is 4.5 inches, while the rear wheel travel measures at 4.9 inches. Front and rear brakes are drums.
      Size
      The front tire size is AT21X8-9 with the rear tires measuring AT22X10-10. The ATV’s wheelbase is 43.9 inches, with an overall length of 68.7 inches. Ground clearance is 6.1 inches with the seat height measuring 28.7 inches. It weighs 403 lbs. and can tow up to 450 lbs. Its fuel tank can carry 2.6 gallons.
      Basics
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is not the fastest ATV on the market, but one reason the Bayou 220 has kept its price low is the lack of amenities. It features a brake light and dual headlamps with high/low beam. There is an auxiliary lighting terminal inside the front cover of the ATV and electrical accessory terminals under the seat. The instrument cluster atop the fuel tank features a fuel gauge, but not much else. There are no speedometer, odometer, hourmeter, tripmeter, high-beam indication or high-temperature light. It does have a reverse/neutral indicator light. The Bayou comes in two colors: hunter green and firecracker red.
      Features
      The front A-arm, twin shock and rear Quad-Link twin-shock suspension system is not a true fully independent system, but it allows for a comfortable ride over rough terrain without employing a complex and expensive, fully independent suspension system. The ATV features front and rear steel cargo racks. The ATV is rider-friendly with a limited adjustable throttle to help novices practice their riding skills without twisting the throttle too far and losing control of the vehicle.
      Submitter oxidized_black Submitted 12/14/2016 Category Kawasaki ATV  
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...