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Arizona

1995 Bayou 220 no crank

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This thread is continued from old one at 

Ok No crank on 1995 Bayou 220

Starter relay have ground at green (n/safety switch

12v at Brown (signal wire from key)

Have also Jumped the black wires still no crank. 

relay does click when key turned on and off.

I know the kill switch is bad and all testing was done with it disconnected. 

I did connect it for a moment just to see if it cranked and it did not. 

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I took apart the kill switch/starter/light off handlebars. See pic

Black wire on starter switch has continuity with black wire on  kill switch

so left kill switch disconnected but jumped using fused jumper from starter switch 

to black wire on bottom side of kill switch. Still no crank. How to check this starter switch?

black wire goes to kill switch below and black w/stripe wired in to kill switch at top. see pic. 

Kill switch cannot find new one for sale how to bypass and still allow crank signal?

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In order to test the start button you have to unplug the clip at the handle bar.  The two wires in the start button yellow and red stripe and black with the yellow stripe are the start button.   Put a tester on those two wires and press the button.  You should get a continuity reading.  

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Which clip are you referring to ?  Do I unplug the main connector? Not sure what you mean

Also update. I started it up today, Just pull started it as it still no crank. 

Drove it around, I cleaned the kill switch and it now works. Couple of 

problems, 1st while running if I turn off the key it stays running, will only stop

if I use kill switch. With ign. off I can start it if kill switch is off. Seems ign. only 

runs accessories with elect. Is this correct?

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The plug I’m referring to is right under the front plastic and it comes from the start button.  I believe you had it exposed.  Your only testing continuity on the start button from the handle bar wire side plug.  

0ED62BEB-C7ED-47D4-BCE3-A9D92B2D620E.jpeg

Have you taken all the plastics off and inspected the harness ? Have you checked the ignition switch for 12v while the key is on? There should be a power source coming from the battery to the ignition switch.  I’m going to check the color wire and get back to you. 

It should be a brown wire that has 12v if I’m not mistaken. 

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Yes, checked ign switch. Has 12v. and neutral light lights up and reverse light comes on when in reverse. I did check for continuity on the starter switch. With it unplugged while pressing 

the start button its open. Guessing the switch is bad? Can I jump the 2 wires and see if it cranks?  Hoping replacing the switch will fix it. 

I do have the 12v at the relay with key on.  

Last, is it normal for the engine to continue running and start with the key off and kill switch open?

Running of magneto? Kinda weird but it works. The only thing that keeps it from starting with the pull starter is the kill switch, Key on or off. 

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The key off =bike off! So that’s not normal.   This is something simple.  I think your going to have to regroup and go back and recheck everything again. Have you checked your regulator?   

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Regulator is on the left side of the frame next to the battery.   Take a look and I will shoot you the spec on it.  It’s a shot in the dark but worth a look.  Since everything else seems to be checking out ok.   

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Ok here’s the spec on the regulator. I really don’t think it’s going to be the cause but just check it out. Read the page carefully and check it out.  

Side note.  What color wire had power at the ignition? I attached the wire colors going to the ignition. ( Last pic attached)

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LOL, Now I know what he meant when I asked for the keys and he said they don't use the keys. 

I will check those on next day off.  Thanks Az

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I hate it when I get a bike that someone else has tinkered with and screwed up something...  They build and wire them the way they do for a reason....

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Honestly you or anyone else with any bit of basic knowledge can build a new wire harness from scratch.  All it takes is the wiring diagram, a few different color highlighters and some basic #14 or #16 gauge stranded wire in various colors. About  8 feet of each color.   A connector kit from amazon and electrical tape.  

You can bring a smaller copy if your diagram to staples or any other office supply place and ask them for a large copy, 11x17 or larger. It’s about $3 bucks for that and really makes it easier to see in large format.  

Highlight all the colors on the diagram to make is easier to identify.

This also applies when it comes to sorting out someone else’s mess on an existing wiring harness. The key is to highlight each run of wire with individual colors.  This was you know what and where things go and if something’s missing or added that does not belong.  

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Waiting for day off to continue. Yea is a pain to fix others rig. Looking at the harness and other wiring

I really don't see any other areas where they messed with it. Looks pretty stock and no burns or messed

up wiring. Ill check the regulator on Friday and also see which one had power at ign. 

I did check starter switch and is open so figure its bad. Now I tried to jump wires on opposite end of 

connector and still no crank with key on and off. 

LOL at least im not posting trash just to get a download 

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Haha my man yes that’s a good point about posting TRASH to get a download.  It makes me crazy! We will get this figured out! We always do here at Quadcrazy. You get some time and trouble shoot we will be here to give you answers. Fortunately I’ve dove head first into this bike so personally I know what’s what.   

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Ok some updates, I replaced ign switch even though seemed to work properly. 

I started with pull starter, still wont crank. But ran and when shut key off the engine shuts off now!

Today decided to recheck relay, 12v on Brown key on

Green - 1.2 Ohms key off Green - 101.7 Ohms Key On! 

I jumped the 2 Blqck wires and it cranks and starts with the starter button now.

I reconnect everything relay included and now it starts no matter what? 

I am assuming problem with the n/safety switch? Don't think it should 

change just with key on and off or am I thinking wrong. 

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If it was the neutral safety switch which is what I suspected, the way to  test it was to add a ground to the green.   That should have closed the relay if the brown has 12v.   The relay may be bad.   But I thought you did that ? 

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