Linhai 300 idle speed

[Gary Patch]

Hi my linhai 300 is hard to start and  engages gears at idle which is 1200 rpm was looking at cdi says on it 7500 rpm does this mean quad should idle at 7500 rpm as this would explain transmission problemb as idle is too high thanks gary

[Frank Angerano]

My guess is that bike should idle at about 800 to 1000 rpm warm and 1200 at maybe a choke position. If it’s reving high after it warms up you can make an adjustment on the carburetor or intake if it’s fuel injected. 

7500 would be the maximum  revolution limit where the cdi would go into safety mode and shut down. 

[Gary Patch]

thanks for reply have adjusted carburettor wont idle slower without cutting out spark not the best so am thinking bad cdi or coil

[Frank Angerano]

That’s strange. I wouldn’t think it’s the cdi maybe a rectifier/regulator??

[Gary Patch]

Turns out it should idle around 1200 rpm was a broken clutch shoe causing gears to enguage at idle,just have the problemb of hard to start with weak spark so was going to start replacing coil  etc any input welcome

[Frank Angerano]

I would change the secondary coil and spark plug wire.  You can test the coil first but it’s cheap enough to replace. Don’t forget the wire also.  

[Gary Patch]

Ordered coil and ht lead Where's secondary coil frank

[Frank Angerano]

That is the secondary that you ordered.   Hopefully that’s the problem. I think it is but I’ve been wrong before.  

  I’m surprised that 1200 rpm is the norm. I would have figured 1000 max.    

[Gary Patch]

New coil in frank  not really better I put volt meter to stator jointers and all seem to be charging any suggestions what to do next

[Frank Angerano]

 

That with a fresh plug also ? 

Only other thing I can think of would be the regulator. The stator is putting out proper voltage ? battery is putting out proper voltage ? 

[Gary Patch]

yep battery plug and stator ok wasn't aware regulator could effect spark but its cheap enough to change any way will let you know thanks for help

[Gary Patch]

Hi frank tried new regulator and blew main fuse sent back got another regulator and does exact same thing any ideas please ?

[Frank Angerano]

Ok well that’s not good. So when you wire it up everything plugs right up and your putting wires right back were they were ? Any differences in the old to new ? 

And have you reinstalled the old one to see if it does the same thing?

[Gary Patch]

Yes same plug all wires same as old giving me headache now 😀

[Frank Angerano]

Have you tried to put the old one back to see if it does the same thing ? 

My feeling is whatever is going on will be a dead short so take a deep breathe and let’s start looking  over things to see if there is a wire shorted out someplace or a faulty ignition connection etc.  What’s the set up ? How May wires are plug in and how many are bolt up.  There has to be a dead short someplace here. 

 

[Gary Patch]

It was starting and running with old one just unplugged ,I can't get any spark at all now plugged old one back in and doesn't blow fuse but still no spark the new ones were cheap Chinese ones but both did same thing I will try check wiring and then perhaps try cdi thanks for input frank

[Gary Patch]

Just before this issue the electronic 2x4 4x4 stopped working so guess electrical issue ...not my strong point 🙃

[Frank Angerano]

On well it’s one of mine so let’s get the manual downloaded and pick it apart. Give me a little bit 

[Gary Patch]

@Frank Angerano rr

Will test pick up coil resistance tomorrow

[Frank Angerano]

Do you have the acceptable range shown in the manual for ohms on the pick up coil ? 

My guess is possibly the cdi sh** the bed when you used the cheap rectifier. Something caused a dead short. 

OEM always when it comes to the cdi and the rectifier.   The stator you can get away with but I’ve never had any luck with the cheap parts like a cdi and or regulator/rectifier.   

[Gary Patch]

Yes is in range had problemb of no spark before changed regulator though will check through wiring and ignition then go for the cdi was going to try cheap Chinese one though just to see  tried 2 regulators both did same  thanks again frank for input

[Frank Angerano]

That sucks. Can’t trust the cheap ones. Same thing with the carburetors. Not good. 

[Gary Patch]

The electronic 4 wheel drive shifter stopped working couple weeks before so bit concerned about plugging expensive cdi back in at first 

@Frank Angerano n

[Frank Angerano]

That could be a solenoid, a dirty plug or connection, switch contacts etc.  Nothing burnt up though right ? Fuses were all good prior to the rectifier swap out ? Nothing happened to the bike? Got banged? Any service work done that could have resulted in a pinched wire ? Check along the neck of the bike on the front end where everything comes up to the controls. I would think you should also unplug, clean and add dialectic grease to the connections as well because this honestly could be something along those lines. 

 

[Gary Patch]

@Frank Angerano will do thanks again ...will let you know

Will do thanks again ...I will let you know 

[Gary Patch]

Still waiting for new cdi frank but have tested out new regulator with voltmeter and is spot on but still blows main fuse immediately ,the old one does not but I tested that out and have no reading on it at all any ideas ,,does seem like a short to me 

[Frank Angerano]

Hey Gary, I was looking through your wiring diagram and highlighted a few things. 

Please verify that I’m looking at the right diagram please. 

As a side note have you tested your stator coil to see that it’s not dead shorted. Reason I’m asking is based on your wiring diagram it looks as the stator goes directly to the regulator/rectifier. So I would unplug the stator and do a quick test from each phase to ground and see if you get any sort of continuity on the tester. You shouldn’t get any reading from any of them yellow wires to ground. If so there a problem within the stator. You can also unplug the stator and try the regulator again and see if it blows a fuse.

Then if that checks out ok I would disconnect the battery and put one lead of the tester to the ground and start touching various parts of the red (hot wire) that comes from the fuse block going to the regulator as well as other areas that carry a 12v hot lead looking for a short.  So make sure your tester is on continuity/ohms setting. I like to use a tester that beeps when there is continuity. 

Also test the starter wire, starter relay and the line going back to the battery to ground for continuity. This way you eliminated everything that could be a short leaving only a fault in the cdi.

lastly the third pic I circled the on off switch in blue it appears the wire is listed as “P” so maybe (purple?)   it comes from the on/off switch and if it’s disconnected it appears it will isolate the cdi unit from the rest of the system. So try to find that wire around the kill switch and unplug it. Install the new rectifier and see if the fuse pops. 

Im in and out of WiFi so if I don’t get back right away I’m out of range. 

Let me know.

good luck   

 

[Gary Patch]

Much thanks for helping with this I will try all of this when I have time ,I did try unplugging stator and bypassing ignition and plugging new regulator back in so I guess it's not stator that's nearest manual could get on a bike 2 years younger but wiring looks same.thanks again for your time

[Frank Angerano]

Ok so that eliminates the stator. I’m surprised that one wire brings the cdi and the rest of the system together.  Find that wire coming from the on off button disconnect and see what happens.  I’m still hoping it’s just a mater of  an oem reg/rectifier that’s causing all this. 

[Gary Patch]

Hi frank ,I am getting a continuity reading between negative battery and positive solenoid with positive lead disconnected from battery is this showing a short sorry if daft question not good on electrics 🙃