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Posted (edited)

Ok so unplug that plug from the relay and test it again. If you don't get a reading then you start tracing the lines off of that plug back. If you do continue to get a reading yiur going  to have to trace that wire your on back.   Why is that wire your testing black????

Edited by Frank Angerano
Posted

And from positive on starter motor showing continuity ,the on off switch is not on this bike that is the only bit of the wiring diagram that differs it does have a switch on front handle bar brake that has to be operated for starter button to operate 🙄

That wire is black as I ordered wrong colour hence the red insulation tape I put on it lol

Posted

The brake lever should just be a safety to close the start circuit.   That wire your  testing goes to the starter ?  If so disconnect it from the relay so it’s independent and test that wire and the relay separately.

I’m wondering if one of them wires is hot or burnt up someplace or if something failed inside the starter. 

Separate all of them and test individually. 

Posted

No worries please it’s my pleasure to help. Ok so disconnect the wire from the starter, test again and see if that wire fails. And then test the bolt lug where the wire connects on the starter. If the wire fails than it’s shorted against the frame someplace. If not then the starter may have a failure. 

You can also take the wire that’s coming from the starter and very very quickly tap it against the positive terminal on the battery to see if the starter spins. If it sparks like hell straight away stop. 

Posted

Was just starter showing continuity which was replacement so removed and fitted original which shows no continuity engine turns over ok but still no spark have to wait for new cdi to arrive I suppose could it have been the short in starter destroyed the cdi ?

Posted

Yes sir. I think that’s correct. It’s possible that the momentary draw could have done damage. I hate to say it but definitely a possibility. Have you tried any of the new regulators ? And put it all back together so see how the fuse holds up ?  

Posted

Seemed to be not turning over fast enough but no difference with new replaced solenoid too ,was going to leave regulator for now as it did start and run with regulator un plugged

Posted

Just been retesting frank and original starter is now showing continuity but there are 3 what I take to be ground wires attached where one side is bolted on as per pic also getting this reading from end fuse as per pic but no continuity beep 

IMG_3906.JPG

IMG_3907.JPG

Also plugged in new regulator while starter is isolated and still popped fuse 🙄

Posted

Ok I’m  back. So that red wire on the starter is clear yes ? No shorts and no continuity from red to ground ? 

Tye three wires you see are ground wires. No issues there.  

so I would go after that “P” wire coming off the kill switch and disconnect that and see what happens.  This will isolate half of the system. It’s the one I circled in blue on the diagram.   

Posted

Also plugged in new regulator while starter is isolated and still popped fuse 🙄Red wire is showing continuity while it is attached to starter but dissconected from solenoid but the wire looks good ,there is no kill switch that's the only part that varies on diagram just a switch on front brake to let starter to operate ,starter turns over fine

Posted

The first thing to go wrong was the electronic 2x4 to 4x4 sensor which ended up buzzing as soon as I put ignition it is now  unplugged could this have been a short in here and freed the cdi ?

Posted

Anything is possible so yes the 2x4/4x4 could be causing a short. 

Can you see if there is a purple wire coming off the cdi and trace that back to maybe the brake switch your mentioning and disconnect it. Test it this way and see what goes on.  

The 4x4 selector if possible unplug it and see what happens.  I will go back and look at the diagram and see what I can find.   

Posted

Hi frank sorry again ...just found continuity on black red wire coming from pick up coil on cdi side un plug cdi and no continuity ..short in cdi looks good bet you reckon ? 😊

Posted

The wire p is pink looks like it goes ignition un plugged  ignition and still had continuity on red and black with cdi plugged in so imagine that rules out ignition switch too ...getting hang of this now thanks again for help

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Posted (edited)

That’s some good work.  Just keep one thing in mind and this will throw you off a little bit. There are resistors inside some of the components with the cdi and other items like that work like a light bulb.

For instance a light bulb is connected to a ground and a positive to make it work correct ? So you should get a resistance reading on the red and black wire going to that bulb because the element inside the bulb bridges the red and black wire but at a very low resistance rate. That’s why a lot of the repair manuals show how much of a resistance reading  you should get on certain parts. Like you pick up coil and or the stator etc.  So don’t automatically think it’s a short when you get a continuity reading.   

Edited by Frank Angerano
Posted

So looking at your diagram that you posted. That pick up coil is bridged so automatically you will get a continuity reading on that.  Along with the ignition coil etc.  unfortunately you really can’t test a cdi. But you can test the other two items, pick up and ignition coil.  That information should be posted in the manual as far as the acceptable ohms reading.   

Posted

Ok great so keep going trough everything to rule out any shorts including a good inspection of that 4x4 selector switch and see what you come up with.  Hopefully you put the oem regulator in and the cdi and she fires right up.  Leave that 4x4 selector unplugged before you try to fire it up and see what happens.   

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