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Gary Patch

Linhai 300 idle speed

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Still waiting for new cdi frank but have tested out new regulator with voltmeter and is spot on but still blows main fuse immediately ,the old one does not but I tested that out and have no reading on it at all any ideas ,,does seem like a short to me 

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Hey Gary, I was looking through your wiring diagram and highlighted a few things. 

Please verify that I’m looking at the right diagram please. 

As a side note have you tested your stator coil to see that it’s not dead shorted. Reason I’m asking is based on your wiring diagram it looks as the stator goes directly to the regulator/rectifier. So I would unplug the stator and do a quick test from each phase to ground and see if you get any sort of continuity on the tester. You shouldn’t get any reading from any of them yellow wires to ground. If so there a problem within the stator. You can also unplug the stator and try the regulator again and see if it blows a fuse.

Then if that checks out ok I would disconnect the battery and put one lead of the tester to the ground and start touching various parts of the red (hot wire) that comes from the fuse block going to the regulator as well as other areas that carry a 12v hot lead looking for a short.  So make sure your tester is on continuity/ohms setting. I like to use a tester that beeps when there is continuity. 

Also test the starter wire, starter relay and the line going back to the battery to ground for continuity. This way you eliminated everything that could be a short leaving only a fault in the cdi.

lastly the third pic I circled the on off switch in blue it appears the wire is listed as “P” so maybe (purple?)   it comes from the on/off switch and if it’s disconnected it appears it will isolate the cdi unit from the rest of the system. So try to find that wire around the kill switch and unplug it. Install the new rectifier and see if the fuse pops. 

Im in and out of WiFi so if I don’t get back right away I’m out of range. 

Let me know.

good luck   

 

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Much thanks for helping with this I will try all of this when I have time ,I did try unplugging stator and bypassing ignition and plugging new regulator back in so I guess it's not stator that's nearest manual could get on a bike 2 years younger but wiring looks same.thanks again for your time

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Ok so that eliminates the stator. I’m surprised that one wire brings the cdi and the rest of the system together.  Find that wire coming from the on off button disconnect and see what happens.  I’m still hoping it’s just a mater of  an oem reg/rectifier that’s causing all this. 

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Hi frank ,I am getting a continuity reading between negative battery and positive solenoid with positive lead disconnected from battery is this showing a short sorry if daft question not good on electrics 🙃

IMG_3903.JPG

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Posted (edited)

Ok so unplug that plug from the relay and test it again. If you don't get a reading then you start tracing the lines off of that plug back. If you do continue to get a reading yiur going  to have to trace that wire your on back.   Why is that wire your testing black????

Edited by Frank Angerano

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And from positive on starter motor showing continuity ,the on off switch is not on this bike that is the only bit of the wiring diagram that differs it does have a switch on front handle bar brake that has to be operated for starter button to operate 🙄

That wire is black as I ordered wrong colour hence the red insulation tape I put on it lol

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The brake lever should just be a safety to close the start circuit.   That wire your  testing goes to the starter ?  If so disconnect it from the relay so it’s independent and test that wire and the relay separately.

I’m wondering if one of them wires is hot or burnt up someplace or if something failed inside the starter. 

Separate all of them and test individually. 

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Just continuity on starter now not on solenoid ...sorry about all this frank but glad of the help

IMG_3905.JPG

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No worries please it’s my pleasure to help. Ok so disconnect the wire from the starter, test again and see if that wire fails. And then test the bolt lug where the wire connects on the starter. If the wire fails than it’s shorted against the frame someplace. If not then the starter may have a failure. 

You can also take the wire that’s coming from the starter and very very quickly tap it against the positive terminal on the battery to see if the starter spins. If it sparks like hell straight away stop. 

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Was just starter showing continuity which was replacement so removed and fitted original which shows no continuity engine turns over ok but still no spark have to wait for new cdi to arrive I suppose could it have been the short in starter destroyed the cdi ?

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Yes sir. I think that’s correct. It’s possible that the momentary draw could have done damage. I hate to say it but definitely a possibility. Have you tried any of the new regulators ? And put it all back together so see how the fuse holds up ?  

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No old one does not pop fuse but don't get any reading testing old one with volt meter new ones test out OK but blow fuse 

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Ok so basically now it’s just a matter of new parts coming ? Cdi and regulator ? 

Why did you swap out the starter in the first place if I may ask ? 

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Seemed to be not turning over fast enough but no difference with new replaced solenoid too ,was going to leave regulator for now as it did start and run with regulator un plugged

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Could there be a short. On charging circuit causing new regulator to pop fuse not had chance to test everything with continuity yet ?

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I would test everything including the stator.  It can’t hurt to run some tests while you have things open.  I’m just not keen on the cheap regulator you have. This way you eliminate all loose ends.   

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Just been retesting frank and original starter is now showing continuity but there are 3 what I take to be ground wires attached where one side is bolted on as per pic also getting this reading from end fuse as per pic but no continuity beep 

IMG_3906.JPG

IMG_3907.JPG

Also plugged in new regulator while starter is isolated and still popped fuse 🙄

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Ok I’m  back. So that red wire on the starter is clear yes ? No shorts and no continuity from red to ground ? 

Tye three wires you see are ground wires. No issues there.  

so I would go after that “P” wire coming off the kill switch and disconnect that and see what happens.  This will isolate half of the system. It’s the one I circled in blue on the diagram.   

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