Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Gary Patch

Linhai 300 idle speed

Recommended Posts



No old one does not pop fuse but don't get any reading testing old one with volt meter new ones test out OK but blow fuse 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so basically now it’s just a matter of new parts coming ? Cdi and regulator ? 

Why did you swap out the starter in the first place if I may ask ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seemed to be not turning over fast enough but no difference with new replaced solenoid too ,was going to leave regulator for now as it did start and run with regulator un plugged

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Could there be a short. On charging circuit causing new regulator to pop fuse not had chance to test everything with continuity yet ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would test everything including the stator.  It can’t hurt to run some tests while you have things open.  I’m just not keen on the cheap regulator you have. This way you eliminate all loose ends.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just been retesting frank and original starter is now showing continuity but there are 3 what I take to be ground wires attached where one side is bolted on as per pic also getting this reading from end fuse as per pic but no continuity beep 

IMG_3906.JPG

IMG_3907.JPG

Also plugged in new regulator while starter is isolated and still popped fuse 🙄

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I’m  back. So that red wire on the starter is clear yes ? No shorts and no continuity from red to ground ? 

Tye three wires you see are ground wires. No issues there.  

so I would go after that “P” wire coming off the kill switch and disconnect that and see what happens.  This will isolate half of the system. It’s the one I circled in blue on the diagram.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Also plugged in new regulator while starter is isolated and still popped fuse 🙄Red wire is showing continuity while it is attached to starter but dissconected from solenoid but the wire looks good ,there is no kill switch that's the only part that varies on diagram just a switch on front brake to let starter to operate ,starter turns over fine

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first thing to go wrong was the electronic 2x4 to 4x4 sensor which ended up buzzing as soon as I put ignition it is now  unplugged could this have been a short in here and freed the cdi ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anything is possible so yes the 2x4/4x4 could be causing a short. 

Can you see if there is a purple wire coming off the cdi and trace that back to maybe the brake switch your mentioning and disconnect it. Test it this way and see what goes on.  

The 4x4 selector if possible unplug it and see what happens.  I will go back and look at the diagram and see what I can find.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi frank sorry again ...just found continuity on black red wire coming from pick up coil on cdi side un plug cdi and no continuity ..short in cdi looks good bet you reckon ? 😊

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The wire p is pink looks like it goes ignition un plugged  ignition and still had continuity on red and black with cdi plugged in so imagine that rules out ignition switch too ...getting hang of this now thanks again for help

IMG_3910.PNG

IMG_3911.PNG

IMG_3912.PNG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


That’s some good work.  Just keep one thing in mind and this will throw you off a little bit. There are resistors inside some of the components with the cdi and other items like that work like a light bulb.

For instance a light bulb is connected to a ground and a positive to make it work correct ? So you should get a resistance reading on the red and black wire going to that bulb because the element inside the bulb bridges the red and black wire but at a very low resistance rate. That’s why a lot of the repair manuals show how much of a resistance reading  you should get on certain parts. Like you pick up coil and or the stator etc.  So don’t automatically think it’s a short when you get a continuity reading.   

Edited by Frank Angerano

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So looking at your diagram that you posted. That pick up coil is bridged so automatically you will get a continuity reading on that.  Along with the ignition coil etc.  unfortunately you really can’t test a cdi. But you can test the other two items, pick up and ignition coil.  That information should be posted in the manual as far as the acceptable ohms reading.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok great so keep going trough everything to rule out any shorts including a good inspection of that 4x4 selector switch and see what you come up with.  Hopefully you put the oem regulator in and the cdi and she fires right up.  Leave that 4x4 selector unplugged before you try to fire it up and see what happens.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Aleksandr Boreesenko
      doesn't idle at times but sometimes when it does as soon as I touch the throttle it just shuts off, what could possibly be the problem? I thank you very much for any help, Thanks.
    • By amharrison24
      i have a 91 moto 4 100. has electric start only. for as long as i could remember we have always pushed start it. after riding for while you shut it off. you are able to hit the start button and it will start right up. anyone know where i should start with fixing this issue? im fixing it up for my niece. thank you in advance.
    • By Dra O
      posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
      -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
      -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
      -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
      -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
      -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
      -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm  OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
      -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
      -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
    • By Steven Urban
      First time using this forum.  Owned a Kawasaki dirt bike once, had no issues.  But I picked up this 4 wheeler at an auction.  They stated it ran, but only needed a battery.  Well I do not believe that was all true.

      Some pictures are attached.  Not sure why, but the whole air filter stuff was removed.  They had some small thing inserted as a make shift air filter.

      I purchased a battery to try this all out.  Waiting to return it and get the proper size, as it was too big for the battery box.  But here is my issue I had while the battery was connected.

      1 - The lights on the steering column did not come on.  Not sure if they work or not.

      2 - The starter solenoid seems to be bad.  I have a new one on order. 

      3 - In the pick, there is another rusted part.  Not sure what that part is or what it is used for.

      4 - What is the 12v rectifier?  square bodied part.

      So when I hooked the battery up.  Pushing the start button did nothing.  Pulling the cord to try and pull start, it turned, but would never fire.  I have put in a new spark plug as well, it looked worn out.  With electric start, I crossed over the posts on the start solenoid, it turned over, but would never fire and start.

      I have read a few other threads and it stated something about needed the neutral light on.  SOmething about a kill switch.

      Any help would be appreciated.



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...