Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Jason Magnone

1999 Suzuki LT-F160 Carburetor and wiring

Recommended Posts

As stated above working on a 1999 Suzuki LT-F160. I think I’m having trouble with the carburetor. I keep fouling spark plugs. Full disclosure, I did make a poor attempt to “rebuild” the carb (that’s why I think that’s the issue). No idea if the new parts are at the correct “settings” (gaps and such) I believe the starting point is 1.5 turns from bottom out on the adjustment screw (is there another adjustment I don’t know of?).  Doesn’t feel like I’m getting gas drawn through the carb (clogged jet maybe?), the plug isn’t wet at all (assuming why they’re fouling?) Not a great deal of experience working on carbs and not having much luck on finding a lot of info on the 160’s.

1st- by chance can I swap out the original carb (13200-02C03) for an LT 250 model (think the HA01050). They’re only about $30 apposed to $200. That would at least narrow down if it’s a wiring problem or carb issue.

2nd - The wiring has been minipulated at least a dozen times (before I acquired it, my cousin got it from a buddy kind of thing). Hopefully don’t have to dig into this too much as it’s currently a bit if a mess. 

I was told it ran last year... 

Any imput would be greatly appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I would definitely pull the carburetor again and do a proper rebuild. You can look on YouTube if your not sure. There are a ton of videos there.  You need to really make sure all jets and passage ways are clear.  Pick up a small can of the compressed air with the small red hose on the tip to blow out the ports on the carb. 

Adjustments on two screws. 

1. Air/fuel screw should be about 1-3/4 turns out from a snug position and you would adjust from there as the bike is running.  Also a video on you tube for that as well. 

2. Idle screw and that’s only adjusted after your air/fuel screw is set.

There is one more adjustment on the carburetor and that’s the main needle jet. It’s the slide inside the carburetor that’s connected to the throttle.  There is a needle inside and it has a clip on it you have to make sure it’s not in a lean position.  Find out what notch the clip is on.   

Both of the screw adjustments need to be done with the air box on and closed up as of it were ready to ride.  

Pop a new plug in as well.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good call on rebuilding the rebuild. I believe I have carb all cleaned out and rebuild correctly. Will have to make the adjustments once I figure the no spark issue.  

Got a new plug and no dice. Figured I’d start with the easy/cheap replacement of the ignition coil. No dice again. So I went to YouTube and searched forums to narrow it down again. Apparently CDI units are a high commodity. Though I did come across an interesting one with replacing the primary coil coming from the  magneto.  So I did some preliminary testing on mine.

I have two upings of wires coming from the magneto.  3 yellow wires all on one connection and then a second connection with one blue and one green. Now when I connect the battery to the blue wire I get spark up at the plug. When I throw the fluke meter on the blue when trying to start it I barely get a reading. Am I correct in the assumption that I may be on to something with a bad coil? I have yet to do the research to see what the resistance should be on each of the coils, but thought I should throw out an update on where I’m at with it as your response was much appreciated. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great update and great work on the carb.  The wires you are referring to are the stator coil.  The three yellow that are bundled up are coming from the stator coil. The blue and green are from the pick up coil.  

Simple test, fluke meter on ohms. Test each one of the yellow wires to ground. Should get no reading on any of them. If so it’s a dead short and coil is bad. 

Second test is going from one yellow wire to the other.  You should get an equal ohms reading from wire to wire. And that reading should be with range of what’s listed in the manual. The pick up coil is the same test. There is an ohm range in the manual.  

Start there and see how that goes.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, after a slight distraction I finally got back to working on the quad. I did as suggested and started testing the ohms on the stator and pick up coils. Everything was checking out good (within the expected reading from the manual). I did notice I had the ‘ol random wire (red wire) that didn’t seam to go anywhere. After a little digging I found that It was part of the wire grouping that went to the coil. After unwrapping an abundance of tape I found where the failed “repair” was made. I reconnected the wire and bam I have spark. 

After putting everything back together I dialed in the carb and this quad is back up and running! 

Big shout out to Frank for pointing me in the right direction. Huge help man, thank you!

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Frank Angerano
      So i took a road trip today to look at a Suzuki Eiger! 2006 in perfect condition other then the fact it starts for 30 seconds and shuts down.  
      Its been sitting for about a year in a shed. 
      It has a plow and a winch included!!!
      Got it for a really good price and all looks good so far.  
       
      Stay tuned.  





    • By dany desbiens
      Hello i have a Polaris 2003 sportsman 600 Polaris Sportsman OEM Gauge Speedo Speedometer Display Dash Cluster 3280425 the speedo is not working no 4*4 i can find nothing can i put a speedo 2004Speedometer Gauge Speedo
      3280431 04-08 Sportsman if it will work
    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
    • By Ellery Zandt
      I have no idea where the antifreeze line coming off the thermostat goes too. The carb two nipples in the pic create a vacumme. Can someone help me on this please....!!! my email direct is [email protected]!!!!
    • By JacobSlabach
      got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
      the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris 
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By oxidized_black
      these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
      1985 - 1990 Suzuki LT230 & LT250 Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/532-1985-90-suzuki-quadrunner-lt230-service-manual/
      1987 - 1998 Suzuki Quad Runner 250 & King Quad 280 Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/268-quad-runner-250-king-quad-1987-1998-service-manual/
      1987 - 2006 Suzuki LT80 Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/89-1987-2006-suzuki-lt80-service-manual/
      1987 Suzuki LT500R Quadzilla Service Manual
      1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Porting Instruction
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/90-1988-1992-suzuki-lt250r-porting-instructions-manual/
      1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Quadracer Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/91-1988-1992-suzuki-lt250r-quadracer-service-manual/
      1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Tuning Guide Instruction
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/92-1988-1992-suzuki-lt250r-tuning-guide-instructions/
      1999 - 2004 Suzuki King Quad 300 Service Manual
      2002 - 2007 Suzuki 500LTA Service Manual
      2002 - 2009 Suzuki LTF250 Ozark Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/94-2002-2009-suzuki-ltf250-ozark-service-manual/
      2003 Suzuki LTZ400 Service Manual
      2006 Suzuki 50LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
      2004 Suzuki 250LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
      2005 Suzuki LTA700 King Quad Service Manual
      2007 Suzuki 90LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/97-2007-suzuki-90ltz-quadsport-service-manualpdf/
      2008 Suzuki 400FLTF King Quad Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/98-2008-suzuki-400fltf-kingquad-service-manual/
      2008 Suzuki 750 King Quad Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/99-2008-suzuki-750-kingquad-service-manual/
      2009 Suzuki 400LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/100-2009-suzuki-400ltz-quadsport-service-manual/
       
      ALSO CHECK SUZUKI ATV SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOADS
    • By Quadrunner44
      I have an older 1980s Suzuki quadrunner red lt 4wd (250)
      so just finished putting it all back together and was running fine just needed to adjust the rebuilt carb
      bf decides to hook up an air chuck to the gas tank because it got a shot of air in the gas line well 120psi didn’t agree with any of the parts including the new carb 
      end result : new battery new carb now it just clicks (one single click) won’t turn over 
      hard to pull start gets hung up (unless I remove the spark plug ) gas flooded out the first time but now does nothing purchases a new starter waiting the arrival 
      could there be damage to the crank shaft or pistons etc? Or install the new starter and try to fire it up ? What caused the starter to die after he flooded everything with gas was working fine. 
      Thank you 
    • By Kevin Nicoll
      Anyone familiar with these models? Its a new to me quad, picked it up for basically nothing... Just time and materials now, this looks expensive. 




    • By jim estes
      Aquired a Quadrunner 240 about a year and half ago.The man said he knew nothing of it history just took it a s an add on in a trade he had made, It looked good-early/mid 90's all the plastic in good shape with no obvious oil stains, dents, etc, now have time to check it a little cl;oser...any suggestions as to what to look for? Aside from metal shavings, checking fluids etc? Whats good to see? Bad? Thank ahead
       
    • By mrfartsalot
      i have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 that the primary cvt clutch is rusted on any ideas on how to get it off i want to try to reuse it if possible.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...