Suzuki LT500R crank rod bearing seized
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By Matdum
Is there a common trouble to have the connecting rod bearing failure on a 2006 330 polaris magnum ? I have one who have failed and i want to know if there is something to check specifically
thanks a lot !
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By tds7
Do any have any experience replacing 2001 Big Bear 400 Front Differential Input Shaft bearing and seal. Getting ready to buy one but the seal and bearing are bad. Any help would be appreciated.
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By p5200
Hello, what is the best method for installing bearings into their race? I've set one in place and tapped it down until it was metal on metal. Is that sufficient? Surely it's not supposed to go into the race until flush? Also. does the coil spring on the seal go into carrier bearing housing not facing out? Thanks! 🙂 Seal goes in until flush correct?
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By preppypyro
Hey guys and gals,
I recently bought a 1994 yamaha big bear 350 with... surprise surprise.. rear diff problems.
I have taken the rear diff all apart and the problem is the pinion bearings are both screwed. (Hope Im using the correct terms) Anyways there is a collar that has 4 "divets" in it that ya can beat on with a punch and it should turn. Well Ive beat on that collar and it is not turning. I have lubed, soaked, heated, cooled, you name it, and that collar will NOT budge.
So as a last ditch effort before I take a die grinder and grind that collar outta there, I thought I would throw a post in here, and maybe someone has some trick or advice they can add that maybe I havent thought of.
Now the axle, taking it out needed a beating, and I ended up screwing up the threads that hold the hub on, and eventually broke them right off. My plan is to drill about an inch hole in the end of the axle, thread it, thread a grade 8 bolt in there, loctite it in, then throw a bead of weld around the bolt. Im thinking for the little light duty puttering around I do with this quad, that this idea should be enough to repair the axle so the hub stays on, rather then fork out big bucks for a used or new one.
Thoughts on both repairs would be great!
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By Mech
This covers most cases of backfiring, and by that I mean loud pops or bangs, not the un-burnt fuel spitting out the back of the carb that's sometimes observed.
Ok, so there are two types of what people describe as backfiring, one sort is when it backfires out the exhaust, and the other is when it backfires into the carb and airbox.
So, backfires out the exhaust happen under two different circumstances.
First is as you are riding along, the bikes going fine, but when you are going at a steady speed or throttling off it makes a loud boom out the exhaust... and that sort is caused mainly by an exhaust leak up near the head or front pipe. It can also be caused by a lean mixture, or a rich mixture, but either way, the bike is generally going fairly well.
The other circumstance is the bike is not going fine, it's missing, and then there is a loud boom out the exhaust... that is nearly always caused by an electrical miss... bad plug or coil something like that.
Then there is the backfire into the carb. This generally happens when the bikes being ridden and the throttle is open. It's not the fairly common, occasional pop as the bike is being started or turned off.
This backfiring is because the incoming mixture is getting ignited. There are a few possible reasons for that.
It can ignite because the valve timing is out, and then they don't idle so good, and they are down or torque when you drive them.
Or, the incoming mixture is ignited by carbon build up, or a real hot spark-plug tip, both of which needs the engine to run for a while till it's good and hot.
Or, the incoming fuel gets ignited by un-burnt gases caused by real late ignition timing, which is super rare these days. That also makes them gutless.
Or because the mixture is still in there burning because it was so lean on the last firing. That is the most common cause by far.
There is another cause of burning still going on in there when the new charge arrives and that's raw fuel deposited on the cool head surface and smoldering away, but that doesn't get caused by a rich mixture alone. Iif the properly atomised fuel mixture was that rich it would be spewing black smoke, but it can be caused by badly atomised fuel getting in there in big globs. That can be because the slide needle is loose and jumping up and down, a vacuum hose to an auto-fueltap or a vacuum fuel pump is sucking in fuel, something like that.
Hope that points you in the right direction when you are trying to figure a problem, or describing a symptom in here. Remember, there are symptoms, and there are circumstances relating to the symptom.. Take note of both and it helps mightily when you are seeking help or diagnosing the problem, and that applies to all problems, not just backfires..
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