Suzuki LT500R crank rod bearing seized
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By p5200
Hello, what is the best method for installing bearings into their race? I've set one in place and tapped it down until it was metal on metal. Is that sufficient? Surely it's not supposed to go into the race until flush? Also. does the coil spring on the seal go into carrier bearing housing not facing out? Thanks! 🙂 Seal goes in until flush correct?
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By preppypyro
Hey guys and gals,
I recently bought a 1994 yamaha big bear 350 with... surprise surprise.. rear diff problems.
I have taken the rear diff all apart and the problem is the pinion bearings are both screwed. (Hope Im using the correct terms) Anyways there is a collar that has 4 "divets" in it that ya can beat on with a punch and it should turn. Well Ive beat on that collar and it is not turning. I have lubed, soaked, heated, cooled, you name it, and that collar will NOT budge.
So as a last ditch effort before I take a die grinder and grind that collar outta there, I thought I would throw a post in here, and maybe someone has some trick or advice they can add that maybe I havent thought of.
Now the axle, taking it out needed a beating, and I ended up screwing up the threads that hold the hub on, and eventually broke them right off. My plan is to drill about an inch hole in the end of the axle, thread it, thread a grade 8 bolt in there, loctite it in, then throw a bead of weld around the bolt. Im thinking for the little light duty puttering around I do with this quad, that this idea should be enough to repair the axle so the hub stays on, rather then fork out big bucks for a used or new one.
Thoughts on both repairs would be great!
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By Mech
This covers most cases of backfiring, and by that I mean loud pops or bangs, not the un-burnt fuel spitting out the back of the carb that's sometimes observed.
Ok, so there are two types of what people describe as backfiring, one sort is when it backfires out the exhaust, and the other is when it backfires into the carb and airbox.
So, backfires out the exhaust happen under two different circumstances.
First is as you are riding along, the bikes going fine, but when you are going at a steady speed or throttling off it makes a loud boom out the exhaust... and that sort is caused mainly by an exhaust leak up near the head or front pipe. It can also be caused by a lean mixture, or a rich mixture, but either way, the bike is generally going fairly well.
The other circumstance is the bike is not going fine, it's missing, and then there is a loud boom out the exhaust... that is nearly always caused by an electrical miss... bad plug or coil something like that.
Then there is the backfire into the carb. This generally happens when the bikes being ridden and the throttle is open. It's not the fairly common, occasional pop as the bike is being started or turned off.
This backfiring is because the incoming mixture is getting ignited. There are a few possible reasons for that.
It can ignite because the valve timing is out, and then they don't idle so good, and they are down or torque when you drive them.
Or, the incoming mixture is ignited by carbon build up, or a real hot spark-plug tip, both of which needs the engine to run for a while till it's good and hot.
Or, the incoming fuel gets ignited by un-burnt gases caused by real late ignition timing, which is super rare these days. That also makes them gutless.
Or because the mixture is still in there burning because it was so lean on the last firing. That is the most common cause by far.
There is another cause of burning still going on in there when the new charge arrives and that's raw fuel deposited on the cool head surface and smoldering away, but that doesn't get caused by a rich mixture alone. Iif the properly atomised fuel mixture was that rich it would be spewing black smoke, but it can be caused by badly atomised fuel getting in there in big globs. That can be because the slide needle is loose and jumping up and down, a vacuum hose to an auto-fueltap or a vacuum fuel pump is sucking in fuel, something like that.
Hope that points you in the right direction when you are trying to figure a problem, or describing a symptom in here. Remember, there are symptoms, and there are circumstances relating to the symptom.. Take note of both and it helps mightily when you are seeking help or diagnosing the problem, and that applies to all problems, not just backfires..
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By Charlesawest936
Hello QuadCrazy guys and gals. Iv got a 2007 Kodiak 450 that's iv been trying to get running again after having to split the case so I could change a few of the transmission gears since the previous owner over did it and broke teeth off of 3 different gears. Anyways iv got the motor put back together and put back on the frame and I keep having problems with the one way bearing on the starter Idle gear locking up and causing the starter to spin with the motor. Now I am able to pull the rotor/flywheel off and then I have to pry the one way bearing off of the idle gear after this happens. But I am able to reset the bearing and put the starter gear on and I then put the keyway on it then I slide the rotor with the one way bearing bolted to it on as far as I can and I lock down the rotor by holding it and tightening it down. At this point all is great I'm able to rotate the crank by hand counter clockwise and the starter and idle gear are free like it's supposed to be and if I reach back behind the rotor and spin the idle gear counter clockwise it engages and spins the crank like it's supposed to. But after hitting it with the starter a couple times it locks up again. I'm pulling my hair out with this damn thing. Before I split the case to fix the transmission it didn't have any starter related issues. Also the starter Idle gear hub where the one way bearing rides doesn't look bad or anything same as the bearing it looks fine as well. Any ideas before I have to order a new bearing and idle gear? Oh also if I put it together and only use the pull rope of course it doesn't lock up, only does it after a few times of the starter being used.
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By Matman
Been working on this teardown for a while. Special tools are needed in a few key areas such as Flywheel puller, Crankshaft 52mm wrench, wet clutch puller, etc.
I'm trying to get the wet clutch off now, and a few videos out there show it sliding right off.
Mine isn't that easy.
I measured the clutch's female threads and determined the puller spec needs to be 37mm x 1.5 LH Male.
Anyone come across identical pullers from another mfg?
The Suzuki tool is tough to track down and expensive for basically a slide hammer-type puller.
Just need to figure out anther way to remove the wet clutch without applying too much pressure on the clutch plates to bend/break the plates or base. All thoughts are welcome to homemade tools. After this I need to cut out my own 52mm end wrench for the opposite side of the crank!
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