Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
Friend of mine picked up an LT80 that needs some work. The manufacture date is 11/1986
The fuel and vacuum lines for the carb were all disconnected. I picked up a new card and was hoping someone on here has a photo or knows how the lines are hooked up
Thanks in advance
I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive. Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot. The green one ran fine.
Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet. Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line). I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad. It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly. Give it a little choke, dies instantly. Took the carb apart and it was spotless. Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air. All new jets, main jet holder, and needles. Put it back on and nothing changed. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on. It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
Not an air filter issue. It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red. Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on.
So...not the carb
Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime. I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime. Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing. I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled. Reset gap, didn't help. Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up. Scratching my head. Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use. Suggestions?
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
Similar Tagged Content
By Chase Cook
Have a 2001 polaris sportsman 500 4x4 atv and when I put coolant in the radiator it starts leaking from the exhaust. The valves are sealed but it stopped making compression. Do I need to just replace the head? I just rebuilt the hole top end and this is the only thing +valves that I have not replaced and was wondering if that is why it's not starting up. Need answers please.
Had a spark-plug break off, had to pull the head to get it extracted. Where the heck is the timing mark on the crank? Do I need to pull the stator or flywheel to find it? When I pulled the head I had the mark on the cam lined up pretty good but I cant remember if it was perfect and don't want to reassemble a tooth off and have to go back through the bear of pulling this thing back apart.
By Chase Cook
Hi I just got an Polaris sportsman 500 4x4 ATV the other day. I got it real cheap but I started to go into it because it didn't have compression so I bought a new piston and ring kit for it and installed it, but now when I try to start it all it does is shoot fire out the exhaust or the intake of the carburetor. And a timing is top dead center.;I think I can't really tell another way if it is or not. when I put it together I made sure to piston was on top and the cam lobes where facing down where are the cam sprocket is facing up. It has gas and spark. It did start a couple minutes ago but it didn't stay running and now it won't start. Do you think the valve need to be adjusted more to close better?I'm fixing to try that out and if that don't work what is the problem? Also I made sure everything was together good and right and change the oil and changed out the radiator fluid.
By Brian Sosebee
I just rebuilt my 03 sportsman 400. Put everything back together added oil per the manual. Pinched off the oil tank vent line 2" away ran for 45 seconds then cut it off. Check oil level and it was still way high so I wasn't confident that it primed so I did it again. Checked again and it's the same. Remove the oil filter and it is dry. I did the procedure again and the same results.
I'm worried to keep trying this as the only oil in the engine is what I used to lubricate the parts when reassembling the piston. The crankcase was drained as well.
I Removed the oil tank and checked all the lines for obstructions and the screen filter and the vent hose and everything is clear. I even pulled a small vacuum on the oil tank while it was pulled off to make sure there were no leaks. The dipstick cap was on tight so I'm not sure why this thing is not priming.
Anyone have any suggestions. I thought about pre-priming the oil lines from the oil tank to the crankcase to hopefully help the system prime. I'd like to be able to add some oil to the crankcase to so I wouldn't feel so bad about running the engine for another 60 seconds without oil. I dropped just a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole to help condition the sleeve right now.
What do I do? Anyone had or heard of an oil pump failure on these. Btw oil pump is working fine before I did the top-end rebuild and the oil pump was not touched.
Please help!!! Thanks all for any and all help.
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.