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Hey there, i have recently put a new drive belt on my 11 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. It has 44 miles since putting the new belt on and should be nearly broken in as i hear it takes 50 miles to do so? Anyhow it has had a little trouble with slipping since i put the new one on a few months ago. Now whenver i go down a hill the belt seems to be getting caught in one clutch if not both and then it has to run a high rpm just to go a low speed. Today it did that again going down hill, i stopped, put it in neutral and when going back up the hill i had to turn it off, put it in neutral, let it roll back down the hill a little, then restart it, low range and it was slipping but thankfully i was able to make it up the hill.
So what might the problem be? Is this a need for another new belt? New clutches and belt? Or just get something else? BTW the brand new belt i put on it, is a factory one, an exact replacement for the original.
Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was.
Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated.
Ok so 2000 sportsman new.caltric carb new fuel pump new jug and piston new cdi and coil finally get to start it and itll idep for 5 to 10 seconds and die what am i missing people any help id love ya forever lol
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Can't figure out whats wrong, battery good, charging fine but speedometer needle flashing. I know my fuel sending unit is not working but atv was working well last year. Now it was blowing fuses. I did engine code check but none there. Gas gauge flashes and shows FUEL in capital letters. Need help as just cannot figure this out,
I might pull the fuel pump out and put new float as likely saturated. Don't know if that would give me all these problems ??
By Chase Cook
Have a 2001 polaris sportsman 500 4x4 atv and when I put coolant in the radiator it starts leaking from the exhaust. The valves are sealed but it stopped making compression. Do I need to just replace the head? I just rebuilt the hole top end and this is the only thing +valves that I have not replaced and was wondering if that is why it's not starting up. Need answers please.
in this thread, I want to discuss how 4-cycle atv engines work- what the different types are... how they are set up and which you prefer. To start off, are the cams on ALL atv 4-strokes powered by a cam chain? I know that on say a lawn mower or logsplitter engine, the cam is turned by the tappet, pushrods, and valve rockers. Which is better and why? Chain-driven cams or pushrod-driven cams? Are the pushrods just an old version and everything is transforming to chains or the other way around...or not at all? Just looking for some explanation, history, and downsides/upsides...
By Kelby 746
Hey y’all I got a kfx 400, rebuilt the carb put bigger inlets on it, adjusted the fuel mixture screw 2.5 turns out and cleaned the fuel petcock. It starts up not so great, it takes full throttle with full choke and cranks for about 10-20 seconds before it fires and while “ideling” it surges very bad and I’ve messed with the idle set and it changes nothing, if you ride it casually it runs fine but as soon as you get on it for more than 4 seconds it stumbles and falls flat on its face and you have to wait for the carb to fill back up with fuel, I’ve checked everything and nothing is blocking fuel, I even put a bigger hose to see if that made a difference. Thanks for reading hopping to hear someone has some advice.
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
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