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I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
ok help so according the service manual, Idle Air Mix Screw (aka Pilot screw) should be initially set to 2.5 turns out from fully seated.
If I do that the motor doesn't want to start or stay running...right now the pilot screw is probably somewhere near 5 turns out....I'll take the carb off tomorrow to count to know for sure.
mind you the carb got a new float seat,float needle and various other components in the kit.
To get the motor running I hard to turn the pilot screw out quite a bit, and turned the idle speed screw in quite a bit...I didn't hook up an inductive tach to know what it is idling at, but does sound about right.
What should the idle speed adjustment screw initially be set at (the one that has the black cable sheath with a knob you can twist easily)?
Is there a special tool to turn the idle/pilot mix screw whilst the carb is on the running motor? I am using a slotted screw driver bit (normally goes into a driver) by hand..makes it hard to turn the driver and hard to tell how many turns .
By Mike Johnson
Does anyone know what the 3rd item is behind the battery on this ATV ? I know 1 is the, solenoid1 is the CDI box, what is the 3rd.
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