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Looking for Suzuki ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Suzuki ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Suzuki ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Suzuki ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.
The following Suzuki ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
CycleVin.com - Use Our Off-Road Vehicle Search to look up ATVs and more!
NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
STREET LEGAL - ONE OF A KIND HARLEY DAVIDSON 4-WHEELER $9,500 OBO Sporster 883 bored to 1200cc built into a Street Legal Licensed and Insured 4-Wheeler. It has 400ex front end, 250r Rear end. All chromed out with new black gloss paint. I have a $500 Dakota Digital Speedometer to go with it (needs installed). I also have an extra rear gear and extra set of off-road mud tires and rims. Brakes need to be adjusted, and there's a few other touch ups that will place it into show quality. I haven't started it in a while. Ran Great last run. This bike has over $20k invested in work and time. It will go about 120 mph or more. With the other gear it will go about 60 mph. It rides great on and off road. It brings trophies and turns heads at shows. Shoot me a message or offer if interested. (May entertain trades). I will entertain any offers. This is your only chance to own a Street Legal 4 wheeler. Currently titles and registered in KY.
I just bought these in the fall as a pair and of course they were running awesome with no problems at that time.
One of them now will only start with starting fluid. It runs great once it's started, but absolutely refuses to start without a squirt of the good stuff. The other one starts just fine, but dies after it gets warm. The only way to keep it running is to keep the throttle up. It won't run at an idle, and keeping it running has the throttle too high to shift. Any ideas or suggestions are very much appreciated!!!
John from Shelley, Idaho
these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
1985 - 1990 Suzuki LT230 & LT250 Service Manual
1987 - 1998 Suzuki Quad Runner 250 & King Quad 280 Service Manual
1987 - 2006 Suzuki LT80 Service Manual
1987 Suzuki LT500R Quadzilla Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Porting Instruction
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Quadracer Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Tuning Guide Instruction
1999 - 2004 Suzuki King Quad 300 Service Manual
2002 - 2007 Suzuki 500LTA Service Manual
2002 - 2009 Suzuki LTF250 Ozark Service Manual
2003 Suzuki LTZ400 Service Manual
2006 Suzuki 50LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2004 Suzuki 250LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2005 Suzuki LTA700 King Quad Service Manual
2007 Suzuki 90LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 400FLTF King Quad Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 750 King Quad Service Manual
2009 Suzuki 400LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
ALSO CHECK SUZUKI ATV SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOADS
Please visit the downloads section for ATV manuals at https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/
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We just bought 4 acres and needed a work rig for moving stuff around and blazing trails. Been looking at buying a quad for a long time and finally got the opportunity. Found a very good condition 1994 Kawi Bayou 300 4x4. Runs great and seems to be in great operating condition with one little thing.
The unit seems to have an issue with reverse. Previous owner did tell me about it and its totally usable but the issue is annoying enough that I want to try and fix it. Im pretty mechanical oriented so don’t think this will (hopefully) be too much of an issue. I bought the kawasaki shop manual on ebay and should be here next Friday but wanted to get a head start on it.
The issue seems to be similar to this post but I think may be more mechanical than just the switch.
Neutral light is always on when key in on position I found that the green wire coming out of the block from neutral switch is grounded to chassis. When plugged in to switch light never turns on no matter what gear its in (and wont start). Machine can go from 1st directly into Reverse if you don’t feather it. This is the part that that makes me want to fix it. I feel like its dangerous and could possibly do some damage. It usually takes 3-4 tries to 'find' neutral. The reverse turn knob seems to be operable and cable is connected and operates the reverse 'selector' when turned. Springs back when released both at the switch and at the 'selector' inboard of the shifter. When in reverse the red reverse light does not illuminate Based on above and looking at the post above it seems that this would indicate that the reverse stopper is 'broken' and rotated in an 'in gear' position. I see a few posts on here where people have said it can crack. If I plug the green wire back in and turn machine to 'on' I can move the shifter through all gears and the neutral light and reverse light stay off. Again, to me it seems that the 'reverse stopper' is probably broken, stuck where the switch thinks its in a forward gear and the shaft is probably just spinning inside it.
Am I on the right track here?
I wanted to get a head start on this and looking at parts diagrams it looks like the part number for the 'reverse stopper' is 13091-1443, found one on ebay for $30 shipped. I hate buying parts before tearing it down but if this is the likely culprit I would take a $30 gamble to buy it so I can have it on hand when the manual arrives.
The other question I have which I hope is an easy answer is none of the parts diagrams I have found show the bevel gear gasket part number. Can anyone tell me what the part number is for this?
Many, many thanks for the info and I promise to post pics once I have it apart.
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Thank you to BuckBilly for pointing out an issue.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
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