Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

What year and what model of lt230?


Thegrizz
 Share

Recommended Posts

So, I just bought this quad off a acquaintance of mine… anyways, it’s missing the airbox which I’m trying to purchase if I could only figure out the year and what model of lt230 it is due to having only 9 visible digits for a vin…guy said he had the title at one point and lost it when he moved houses after the flood of 08 in Iowa….I just desperately need to know what model this thing is so I can start getting to work on it….it does run after a good carb cleaning….I’m having trouble getting it to idle though due to essentially just having a rigged up air filter with no airbox on the bike…I’ve sanded down the plastics and it looks like the original color was orange and the seat I believe is either from a different Suzuki or it’s been painted gold and black? The plastic nose part is originally black…it has the lever for reverse by the sprocket it has a pull string to start and I think originally it has electric start as well….idk I’ve had to bypass and use a screwdriver on the starter Solenoid to get it to start …someone has definitely done some rigging with the wiring as well.but if anyone has any clue what I need to look for to identify the year and actual model so I can get the right stuff. I’d appreciate it.

3DE9A8C4-EF1A-4B81-B7EA-3323C5FB8F19.jpeg

4263AA83-CB62-44D6-BB8B-81C65014F409.jpeg

06B260DE-AB35-49E7-B915-56CCAF00239E.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Based on what little I can see of the swingarm it's either 87 or 88.  In 85 and 86 they had a cam type chain adjuster.  In 87 they changed to bolts and slots.

If it has a starter then it's a 230E, but it doesn't look like one.  It could have a Goki starter which were popular add-ons back in the 80s.  If so that may be worth more than the quad.  Post a pic of the mag cover and I could say more.

Honestly, you have a lot of work ahead of you.

It looks like the swingarm bearings are toast, which is a common problem.  Another common problem is the chain coming off and smashing the magneto cover.  Those run about $200 if you can find them anymore.  If you have a Goki you definitely don't want to smash that.

Also the wrist pin is rather weak which lets the piston flop around leading to smoking.  In 1990 they up graded from 16mm pin to 17mm, but they only made those engines 2 years and are really hard to find.  A 230 that doesn't smoke is pretty rare.

You're going to have to replace practically everything from a-arm bushings and swingarm bearings to magneto coils and maybe valves.  The amount of work involved isn't going to be worth it unless you just like to work and spend money.  That quad was one of the first and Suzuki cleaned up many of the problems in 1990.

If you could post what you have of the VIN and some more pics of the side and swingarm I could say more.  Also what is your goal with the quad?

 

 

Edit.  I'm sorry.  I meant to say 1989 and 1990 is when Suzuki cleaned up the problems with the 230.  They did it to compete with Honda's 250X.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep it's the lightest full size quad ever made.  Mine is right around 300lbs wet.  I can bunny hop it with the engine off in the garage.  I guess the bad part of the goki starter is it adds a bit of weight.

Another unique feature is the stroke (67mm) is longer than the bore (66mm).  I don't know of any other quad that is under-square.  On top of that, 67mm is a long stroke for any quad in its class.  It's longer than the 350 Warrior.

The torque and light weight make for a unique riding experience.  They will also handle a lot of abuse so long as the chain stays on and the rod doesn't break.

Here's one with a turbo:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Jim Denton
      I was gifted four King Quad 300's, they were used to tow portable snow guns around the slopes. All of the plastics are trashed and racks bent up from rolling down the mountain. The lone Quadrunner is a 98, and will be the initial point of focus, as it reportedly ran before being parked in the field of lost dreams. 




    • By Valkman
      Hey all, new to the forum.  I just bought a 2001 King Quad, and the clutch is slipping. I adjusted the play with no improvement, so before I go through the trouble of replacing the clutch disc, I want to see if motor oil in it is the problem.  My question is Rotella T4 ok to use? I run in my motorcycles with no issues but I thought I'd get your input.
    • By 2003hondaatv
      This Listing is on Ebay as of Jan. 2 ,2023& I am looking to buy ...Does anybody know - what year Range this ECM will fit ??
    • By Fiend_138
      Just picked up a 2014(?) Chinese quad for my kids to play around on. I can get the quad to start up, but then it dies out when we get ready to take off. Do I just keep playing with the carb, or is there something else I should be looking at?
      Also, what kind of amps should I be looking for in a replacement battery?
      Thanks
    • By geezer99
      Well, I bought the Axis 500 sold at Lowes for $8999 a couple days ago.  This post will be about my impressions as I use, fix, and abuse the machine.  I will add to the post as I gain experience with it.
      Thanks to other posters on this site warning of new machines with loose hardware, one of my first actions was to crawl all over it checking fluids and connections.  Zirks were all freshly greased, fluids in engine, and gear boxes were up to level.  One of the little gas struts that help lift the bed to dump was dangling with only one end connected, and the other strut had not been fully tightened.
      Here are some things I don't like:
      The rear gearbox does not have a differential in it.  It is essentially a solid axle.  Tight turns on lawn will leave tracks, and turns are not as tight on pavement.  In my case this won't matter much, but if you plan to use it on a lawn, this will create tracks on turns.
      To check engine oil you need to remove both front seats and a plastic cover.  This according to the manual.  I'm pretty sure it can be checked with that stuff in place, either from under or above, but that remains to be seen.
      I am not used to a CVT transmission.  I am used to a clutch and multiple gears.  This one requires giving it plenty of gas out of the hole and then backing off to get it to shift up.  I'm sure I will get used to it, but I'd like to be able to take off quietly if I want to.
      The doors have bungie cords to act as springs to close them.  I removed the driver door so I would not need to fight the constant pressure to close.  Problem solved.  I will leave the passenger door as is.  Gotta keep the grandkids safe.
      The status display is hard to read if the sun is on it.
       
      Here is some stuff I like: 
      I was concerned about there being enough torque to slowly climb a steep hill.  There is.  I will elaborate more on this when I've had it on my steeper trails.
      The display has dedicated lights to indicate status of gear position, low oil pressure, over temp, and a bunch of other stuff.  This helps a beginner with feedback that an action taken was successful.
      The sparsity of knobs on the tires dig in well on most surfaces.  I bet they wear out fast on pavement.
      The tilt bed has a tail gate that is easy to operate.  Much like early Japan pickups.
      Steering is responsive and little slack.  Remains to be seen how long to get loose since the u-joints are operating at quite sharp angles.
      Seats are pretty nice.  Will be interesting to see how long it will take me to poke a screw driver though them.
      Seat belts are included to hold grand kids in.  Won't go over 5 mph if both aren't buckled.  Yeah, it works to buckle them empty.  Doing this leaves the belt high on back, so you don't have to sit on it. 
      Hauling it home, my trailer wheel wells were too close together to clear the tires of the UTV.  This required driving it off center a bit, with one set of tires inside the wells and one side driving over the wheel well.  Creeping over the one well required climbing a 10 inch vertical well.  The ability to lock the front axle differential kept both front wheels pulling as I drove the one side up and over the wheel well.  The guys at Lowes were impressed.  They won't touch any but an unobstructed flat trailer loading.
       
      As I gain more experience I will add to this topic,
      tom
       
       
       
       
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...