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Similar Forum Topics
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By WyattLemke25
Working on a 2016 Sportsman 570 and it has a new battery and spark plug. No codes, fuses all look good. It cranks for a while and when it starts it will only run for a few seconds before stalling. At one point it was running at 3000 rpm with no throttle input, then it dies. Not sure where to look besides messing with the throttle cable, so suggestions are appreciated, Thanks.
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By Banshee898
2014 Honda Rancher TRX420TM1: Unit starts right up, once it warms up it stalls and more difficult to start but once it does start it won't stay running. I have replaced the fuel assembly, IACV, O2 sensor and fuel injector. There are no active DTC codes. Disconnecting fuel line at injector and turning on key there is a steady stream of fuel. Plug looks good did not see crack in ceramic. Is there any way to test the ignition coil?
Thanks for any help.
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By 97kingquad
Okay so I bought this 1997 sazuki king quad from a guy and he had it for a few years.
He had it registered and on the trails last year but he said it bogged and backfired when he would try to drive it. so it sat for a year.
I bought it for 800 bucks and got it running that night and it ran great for a few days
But I parked it the other night and went to start it again and it was really hard to fire up and when I did it was bogging and idling high then low again.
So I took the carb out and cleaned it (ended up doing it twice because it was still doing the same thing)
Now today I have it running slightly better, but it is still like 20%
I have been looking it up and trying to figure it out but I can't find the issue, has anyone else had this problem? I'll attach a video of it running and giving some throttle
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By n4cer26
Just bought a non-running 425 Magnum 6x6. Guy said previous owner had motor rebuilt (3 years ago or so.) It reportedly ran great but recently the electric start began failing and he put a new recoil on it which he broke immediately.
I get it home and put a new recoil on it and the pull is incredibly hard....so much so that I think I'm going to break the new recoil assembly. I also installed a new starter which won't roll it over either.
I'm thinking maybe a hydro-locked situation so I pull the plug and the motor rolls over fine with both pull start and electric start. The cylinder was dry however.
Checked the valve lash and it was right on at .0006".
Checked the compression relief spring on the end of the cam and the spring was strong and keeps the metal piece against the dowel like it should. The cam lobes look good from what I can see.
I have a small camera that I dropped into the cylinder. Could t get a pic of the entire chamber because of the angled engine but there are marks on the center piston and a couple of grooves once side of the piston top. I will include the photo.
Anyway....I'm at a total loss at this point. Not sure how to proceed and diagnose. Would sure appreciate anyone's help who might know what the heck is going on! I was able to get it to turn over about 5 times with electric start with compression tester installed which read 145 lbs. I don't know what else to do!
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By DayBreakJim
So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!
20230725_171507.mp4
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