Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hey boys, so a little update with my Yamaha, I now have the CDI box that came in and it’s getting really good spark, but when I go to turn it over, I hear a clanking noise that sounds like something is loose, so I took the stator cover off and my flywheel came off the crank and was magnetized on the stator, nothing serious but like it was unbolted. Is there a way I can keep it from coming off when I turn the motor over? I heard you gotta torque it down with an impact but idk if it’ll work for sure and I’m trying to get this bike back on the road/trails, but at the same time, I’m at the end of my rope with it because it’s getting aggy, but if anyone knows how I can make the flywheel stay on, lmk because some help would be gladly appreciated.

Edited by That229Yamaha
Posted

Well the flywheel should have a key to align it with the shaft, and a nut and washer or possibly two washers.. so you'd better fish them out of where-ever they are. Then you need to hand fit the flywheel onto the shaft without the key or nut and turn the flywheel on the shaft(shaft not turning) checking it fits on nicely with no rocking or wobble to it. If it sits on the taper nicely then take it off and fit the key and flywheel and give it a bit of a wobble to make sure it is still sitting nicely and not being held off-set or not right on because of the key. Then if it's still fitting nicely fit the washers and nut and tighten it and use something close against the flywheel as you trun the flywheel checking it's running concentric and not bent or wobbling. If you mount something right close to the flywheel you will see the gap changing if it's bent. If it all looks right then use a socket and bar and tighten the nut up. Don't use an impact wrench because you won't notice if the threads don't feel right.. Use the bar and tighten it down checking it behaves as threads should.. going up tight and then progressively tighter in the last 1/4 or so of a turn.

Posted

Well if the flywheel came off then the nut and washers are missing, you have to find those, and the key, it may be in pieces, but you need to find the pieces, dont want any pieces floating around in the sump, even though they dont float they could cause problems later. Check to make sure the keyway and crank threads are not damaged and put everything back together by hand as Mech suggested if everything goes back together smoothly torque nut to 100ft pds. I used a ratchet wrench on the flywheel to hold it while i torque the nut, i dont like to use impact wrench for that. 

Posted

That unit should have a pull stater with a rope if I remember correctly.  The Bolt and washer are outside the outer cover and should be tightened to 36 ft Lbs as per pages 4-64 in the manual.  Pages 4-63 have good pics so you can Identify the parts and how to assemble them correctly.  Please use a torque wrench and torque it correctly so you don't have further issues.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By hengstserepair
      Howdy ya'll. I am working ona 2000 Yamaha Breeze 125. It was in rought shape when I received it and I am working through issues as they pop up. The quad had been sitting for years. I was able to get her running again, but I need your help with the following issue:
      I don't trust the transmission yet and I don't want to make problems any worse. So, I haven't pushed things hard at all. Low rpms, less than 5mph in reverse.

      Nuetral: Runs as expected
      Reverse: She seems to be driving fine at slow speeds. Going into reverse at idle is fine, coming out of reverse back into neutral won't work (the shifter is just stuck). As soon as I turn off the quad, I am able to shift around without any issue.
      Forward: It slips. It seems to only transfer power to the wheels on a smooth surface and going slightly downhill. When shifting into forward at idle, there is a clacking sounds during the transition. Shifting back to nuetral works just fine.

      Other Notable Symptoms: There was old oil in the vbelt and when I was tuning the carb, it starting blowing out of the CVT cooling vent at the front of the quad. Made quite a mess. There is positive crankcase pressure due to piston blowby, that I have not decided whether or not I am going to fix (customer budget dependant).  Since the oil was old, much darker than the new oil that is in the crankcase, I am thinking it seeped past a bad seal while it was sitting for years. The oil that was in it when I first got it had gas in it.

      Thoughts: I am thinking maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I worry about the old oil intermingling with the dry centrifugal clutch. I was thinking my next step would be to take the cover off of the clutch and inspect it.

      Let me know what you all think. Any advice and ideas is greatly appreciated. This is only the 3rd quad I have worked on and I have a lot to learn.

      Lorne
    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By jeffinotown
      Hey guys and gals. I've been working on my friends 2007 big bear IRS. Unfortunately after 3 different people got their hands on it and only made things worse every time.  After months of finding just crazy problems everywhere. I'm finally at the point we're its almost 100% !!! But I'm getting a short somewhere between the 4xW switch I believe. I managed to by searching the internet like a  fiend, got my hands on an official Yamaha wire harness for the year and make. But I don't have the numbered component list and to be honest. After hours of going through and making everything so it's  easy to reference. If anyone has a picture of the referenced components. I would be forever in your debt. I've spent hours marking up the blown up diagram so it will be easy, for any possible future repairs. Please and thank you. Here's a picture of what i have so far.  Unsealed it in plastic so oil and crap won't spill or get smudged. This damn things worth it's weight in gold.              Thanks Jeff                2007 Yamaha big bear 400 IRS.       YFM40FBW
    • By TomJulio
      My 1992 TRX00 recently stopped firing.  I understand this is a common problem. I have ordered an aftermarket CDI unit.    TJ
×
×
  • Create New...