Quantcast
Jump to content


New Owner ATV Technical Tips (Cannondale)


Ajmboy

Recommended Posts

These are tech tips compiled fron various posts on various boards, very useful information for new owners!

· When changing oil take the fill plug out to let the frame drains flow faster and let the drain for ten minutes or so to get it all out. It also helps totip the quad on its side to aid drainage and prevent oil from running between engine and skid plate.

· Also tip the quad when reinstalling tranny filter. Gravity will keep the filter in the bolt. Don't ever force it!

· Use a 6 point wrench on the aluminum drain plugs to keep from rounding them off.

· Always use antiseaze on the transmission drain bolt.

· Do not over fill your quads oil . Even a couple of ounces will blow out all over your air filter.

· You have to do the engine stud updates now, do not put it off . If one of these bolts come out you will pay dearly. Its not that hard and kind of fun (at least for me)

· Make sure to check your battery connections because if they are loose the ecm with cause all sorts of weird running problems. And load test the battery once in a while to be sure of quick starts and prevent plug fouling.

· Use star lock washers between your battery terminals and you battery

· Don’t turn the idle down because you think its idling to fast. 2200 to 2300 is where it should be. If you have trouble starting it and it starts easier if you give it just a little gas chances are its to set to low.

· If you run in mud a lot turn your headlights off. If they are caked with mud they will heat up the housings and deform the lenses.

· If you need to get the flywheel off and dont have a puller cruise over to your local stihl chainsaw dealer ,the puller they use on the larger chainsaws works on our cannons. They did mine for free but I purchased the puller anyway afterwards. Part number is 1106 890 4501 A

· When starting let it run for at least 2 minutes to burn the raw fuel off the plug before shutdown to help prevent fouling it.

· Dont panic and overthink the problems if they occur , I thought my engine blew chucks while hauling the mail down a dirt road and it backfired and came to a stop. Turned out just a plugged fuel filter from a dirty gas can. Im glad they are see through.

· Replace those steel fender screws with some stainless steel ones(couple bucks)

· Buy a D&M kit the basic one is only $300 and if you ever have a problem you will save countless hours asking questions, hunting dealers, and generally being in a bad mood when you could have diagnosed your problem in just a few minutes. That also goes for getting the free service and parts manuals available on this page.

· Inside the fuel tank fitting is a stainless steel strainer ,mine was plugged tight with the nastiest brown goo. While your checking it it is a good time to install new o-rings on the fitting shut off valve. a size r-01 seems to fit good. The one that swells is not the one you can see when you disconnect the quick coupler.

· There is a mini tach from Track Master Inc Part number tr99 that you can install on the quad to check your idle speed if your don’t want to buy the D&M kit. It installs without cutting into the wiring harness because it is a self contained ,waterproof with inductive pickup that you just need to wrap the wire around the coil to make it work.

· Don't leave the key in the on position, for some reason it draws down the battery

· Use Di-electric grease on all of the electrical connections. Just pull the connectors apart and fill them with the stuff.

· If you have access to the Maintenance & Diagnostics kit, reset the throttle position and idle regularly - I do it about every oil change.

· Keep an eye on the rear hubs, they tend to loosen up and they will strip out

· Check the swingarm buffer (chain slide) often, I've seen a few that where never checked and the chain had eaten holes in the swingarm.

· Pull the a-arms and grease up the bushings really good once in awhile, they don't have much grease from the factory and bind up.

· Pull the swingarm and clean/grease up the pivot bearings good at least once a year, the seals tend to leak and the bearings will rust.

· For oil changes, tip the quad on it's side to aid drainage and prevent oil from running between engine and skid plate.

· Reroute the tranny vent line up by the airbox if you play in deep water.

· Do replace your worn tie rod ends with something other than stock.

· Never throw away old parts.

· Always keep fuel filters and gas line quick connect orings on hand.

· Always use locktite on sprocket bolts and visually inspect before every ride

· NevRDull and a fine ScotchBrite pad works wonders on that state of the art ALUMINUM frame.

· Counter sink your tranny filter bolt so it will help self centering the filter

· Always pull your fuse if you are working anywhere near your fuel pump you will short it out if you touch it with something

· If you install nerf bars make sure you lube the holes in the frame with lots of antisieze or you will never get the bars out because they will gall in.

· Dont let morons on your quad that dont have a clue how to start it because chances are they will get out of sight and stall it and try starting it like their quad and crank the snot out of it while pumping the throttle "personal experience"

Edited by Ajmboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

great tips ajmboy but i dont know wat this one is "You have to do the engine stud updates now, do not put it off . If one of these bolts come out you will pay dearly. Its not that hard and kind of fun (at least for me)" wat do u have to do for this... and for the others if u pull of the a-arms wat should the torque be when u put them back on... great thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great tips ajmboy but i dont know wat this one is "You have to do the engine stud updates now, do not put it off . If one of these bolts come out you will pay dearly. Its not that hard and kind of fun (at least for me)" wat do u have to do for this... and for the others if u pull of the a-arms wat should the torque be when u put them back on... great thread

These tips were pulled form a Cannondale site and relate more to Cannondale ATVs. I should have just posted there. I moved the thead into the Cannondale section.

Stud Updates:

Cannondaler :: Info Center

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...
  • 2 months later...

Valve shims are the same ones used in most small motorcycles. Any real motorcycle shop will have the individual ones you need or you can buy the whole set. If your replacing the valves be sure to torque the cam caps to 8ft pounds instead of 10 foot pounds and you must use a torque wrench or you will for sure destroy the engine. Download the service manual before even looking at the engine. If you need any help or parts give me a call at 7155511498.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Admin unpinned this topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Slitzer
      How often do you change oil in front/rear diffrentials and gearbox?
    • By Suzukiquad
      If you had to choose one mod that you couldn't live without, or had to recommend one what would it be? 
    • By Mhatayas
      What should I do about this , bad oil leak where the filter cover bolts on . Can I use some gasket maker 

    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By McG75
      Sorry I suck at these forums so if you see this submitted under update status, my bad. Anyhow this is a new shock for a 96 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 it fits my 96 Yamaha Timberwolf 250 4x4 perfectly. Little narrower are the bottom than the original but everything else is perfect. I extended it to almost a half in from full extension because I’m pushing 350 pounds.  It rides and hold me well. So if any of y'allRace driven shock. have been looking for one and didn’t want to do the research here it is. 





×
×
  • Create New...