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Sorry for my English, I live in Ukrane, Kharkiv.
I have Can Am Renegede 800, 2007, g1, mileage is 430 hours. Happened issue with chain in first cylinder. Mechanic opened engine and found problems with piston, rings, cylinder, etc. So engine need full rebuild.
I found rebuild kit on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/06-10-Can-Am-Outlander-800-800R-Stock-Cylinder-Crank-Complete-Engine-Rebuild-Kit/253868930525?fits=Make%3ACan-Am&hash=item3b1bc475dd:g:NdMAAOSwew5a-bY9
Price is really good. For example original crankshaft costs $929.99. Here full kit costs $999. This kit made by BP Racing ATV Company. Here is their website https://bpracingatv.com/
But I can’t find reviews to their products. My mechanics didn’t used parts from BP Racing ATV before. And their parts not very popular in Ukraine. I’m afraid that I will spent money for this kit + delivery + pay to mechanic for a work and will need new engine rebuild after 100 hours.
What is the quality of parts from BP Racing ATV?
Is it have sence to buy this kit, or pay more and buy original parts?
Maybe someone used this kits for rebuild engine. And have expirence of using this parts. What will your mind about quality of parts from BP Racing?
Thanks for your answers.
'11 Grizz 700 here. Since I've got some warm weather these next couple days I've decided to start the bike after about a year of just sitting. Took out the plug and sprayed a good amount of fogging oil on top of the piston to help lubricate things. After about a minute of letting it soak I stuck my air line tubing in to suck out the excess, but it seems like I didn't get nearly as much in return. Repositioned the tube enough so that everything that was gonna come out pretty much did. I'll probably shoot some compressed air down the plug hole before doing the start just to make sure it's all out, as well as cranking it for a second before putting the plug back in. How long would it take for a bit of standing fogging oil to seep past the piston rings, and where would it go? I guess into the engine oil? The oil was fairly new the last time it was started but I'm sure it could stand to be changed after sitting for so long. If much of this fogging oil got into the engine oil should I do the change before the startup?
While riding my Quadzilla XLC 500 I was cruising along about 60 mph then opened it up, but once I hit 70-75 mph it died on me so I rolled to a stop and it wouldn't start for about 20-30 seconds. I then noticed the Temp light occasionally flashes on but its so quick you wouldn't notice in the day so not sure how long its been happening. The engine has started pinging when I accelerate which can be caused by many things so I drained the fuel and replaced with hi octane, fitted a new spark plug, adjusted the little washer on the high jet in the carb twice to make it run more lean which made no difference. I tested the thermostat which opens at the correct temperature, I removed the radiator cap and started the engine and no bubbles were showing and the oil is on maximum and very clean as I have not long serviced it.
The last time I took it out I went 14 miles and the coolant in the bottle has dropped about 1/2".
I am now leaning towards a head gasket and have purchased a full gasket kit but was wondering if there's anything else it could be before taking the engine apart.
Anyone out there spice up their 2002 Kawasaki Lakota Sport 300 with cam, shaved head, deck the jug, valves?
As you probably have already seen, I have a top end to get built back up and might as well add a little kick to it. Here's a pic of a golf cart I built up recently and modified the engine a little while I had it apart.
Thanks in advance for everyone's help!!
I bought a '02 Lakota Sport and had a few pieces missing, looks like someone ripped it apart, lost interest and all the parts removed got trashed. Anyhow, not really sure where to start, but there does seem to be more Bayou parts available.
Does anyone have a breakdown of parts (or years) of the bayou that are the same as the Lakota?
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I bought this old three wheeler that I found in a barn. It looked pretty rough, but I have it running now and functioning.
With the switch set to "run" and the key in the "on" position the electric starter does not work when I push the starter button,
However, if I cross the solenoid it will work and it will start the engine - so I know the starter motor is good and it works.
Now, it gets a little mysterious. When the engine is running, AND the headlight is on high beam, the electric starter will engage when the starter button is pushed.....When its already running! (when the headlight is off or on "low" the starter button does nothing, only when running and in high beam will you hear the starter motor zing when you push the starter button) So, I know the button actually works, but only after the engine is already running and the high beam is on!
So to recap: with the key on, the starter button does nothing. crossing the solenoid will make the starter work, and after the engine is running the starter will work with the button!
Has anyone else had this problem? Can anyone point me in the right direction on solving this one?
I've got a 1983 Honda ATC 110 that I'd picked up for $50 and got running. After going riding with a couple friends who had snorkeled their quads, they rode through the creek and I had to go around it. My question is, if I were to snorkel it, what would I do about the pull start? is it possible to seal it? even if it was just a cork I wedged in after starting haha
Want to replace the Piston / Cylinder assembly on my grandson's 2007 Panther RX-4 110cc.
Was going to purchase entire engine. The piston was just stuck in the cylinder. Piston not burned. Rings just slightly rusted to cylinder.
Decision is piston size. Ebay has kit. Either 52mm or 54mm but description says kit will fit most 110 cc engines. Measured my piston and cylinder. Digital caliper measures 52.19mm.
I need to purchase the correct kit. Also require gasket kit.
Input greatly appreciated. Kids want to ride the atv.
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