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calypsoaz

2003 Yamaha Warrior 350 Overheat and Gas/Air Mix Problems

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Update: That Banshee Warrior Haynes catalog gives separate specifications for both quads. It really is an In-Depth manual.

Update: Got a new carb (used from a guy parting out his quad). Got it rebuilt, pilot screw was perfect, had to replace all the throttle linkage, float pin, float, and bowl. But I still don't know if it works, because the quad still wont start. I put a volt meter up to the spark boot, and ground. While trying to start it supplies .25 volts, while not trying to start it supplies .35 volts. I have a feeling its my ignition coil, my voltage regulator, my cdi, or my stator. or any combination of those 4. I have perfect timing, and great compression. I don't have spark. The pilot screw of the carb is all the way in and out 2.5 turns (which I believe is the correct placement of the pilot screw). I am going to replace the Stator, pulsar coil pickup, CDI, Ignition Coil, and voltage regulator. If none of those fix it, could it possibly be my relay fuse? Any additional help would be great. And I will repost when I get my electronics installed and tested. Hopefully this fixes it.

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I just looked at my Haynes book and it says 1 and a quarter out. So I will reset that tomorrow, and recharge my battery, and try to start it again. I have a feeling though that it won't start. I have a question. Is there any adjustment in the Pulsar Coil Pickup (Pickup Coil)?

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sounds like head gasket problems or cracked head and its allowing water to mix with the gas creating more water than gas when reve it up now you have more gas then water let it die check plug for water beads.

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Judging by the low voltage at the plug wire, I would guess that your coil or coil wire is your problem. An ignition coil should put out thousands of volts, as much as 20,000 volts. If there is an adjustment for the pickup, it should be mentioned in your manual. There should be a direct resistance test in the manual to test your coil. If the coil tests ok, it could be the voltage regulator/rectifier.

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My warrior is not water cooled. All of the YFM350X's are not water cooled. You're probably thinking of a Banshee which is a watercooled 2 stroke 350.

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Check that coil like DD said..sounds like it could be your issue. Actually your post said you are replacing some electronics. Let us know how you make out. I would start with the coil first.

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Well like you suggested I pulled my ignition coil off, and checked both Primary Resistance and Secondary resistance, and they both showed an infinite resistance. I tried all functions within the Ohm range. 200 2k 20k 200k 2m 20m and 200m, and they all show a solid "1" on my multimeter. Also on my multimeter on the 200 ohm range it beeps when you make 0 ohms or No resistance. Like either touching both meter probes to each other, or a piece of metal like a soda can. It was not making the beep sound when I tested the Primary, but I still got a Solid 1 on my multimeter. When I tested secondary resistance, I got a beep at 200ohms and a solid 1 on all ohm settings. What does this mean?

I've tested every possible combination, and I get a Solid 1 and a beep on some of the possibilities, but not all. I'm so confused. I went ahead and ordered a new Ignition Coil, I get the feeling like this one is shot. Either its getting infinite resistance or ZERO resistance. and the specs call for on 2002 and later in my haynes book... Primary Resistance: 0.018 to 0.28 Ohms; Secondary Resistance: 6.32 to 9.48 K-ohms, I can tell you all, thats not what I'm getting, unless I don't have a multimeter in range to test these ohm levels out. But my multimeter doesn't even flicker. Can someone tell me if i'm in the right direction ordering a new Ignition Coil, or what?

Much thanks for your time and help. I've only been able to ride my quad a handful of times after getting it, and I really want to take it out soon!!!

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When you test the primary resistance, you should have the meter set to the 20 ohm range, 200k ohm range for the secondary resistance test. If you are not getting the correct readings then I would start with the coil. It really seems like that is most likely the problem given the low output to the spark plug. I would test all of the other components before you go and order the coil just to see if you have any other problems, but I think you will end up finding that the coil or the plug wire is the main problmem. It may be a good idea to check the connection of the plug boot to the coil wire. You may try unscrewing the plug boot and clipping back the coil wire just a bit to make sure you have good fresh wire at the end, then screw the boot back on and try the coil test again.

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Hi I have the same problem, my valves tick but are in spec, I put them into spec today and started it to let it idle and about a minute later I turned it off, the pipe was realy hot, like crazy. Maybe it should have been and I'm an idiot but I'm pretty sure it was a little too hot for only running for a minute, I couldn't even touch the header for a second. Please help me out!

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Ok I was reading a problem you have. Mine had a problem with idle and got worse as it got hot. Found something simple wrong with mine. Check the intake boot between the carb and head. Mine had a crack in the rubber. The worse the crack got the worse it would run. Sucking air like crazy.

Check that intake boot!

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Ok thanks very much! I also have had people tell me it's running lean but I looked at the spark plug and it's black, it isn't white

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