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By quadmaniac
So here's a topic for anything goes forum and to get a way from the china virus stuff...lol. Has anyone been noticing the small drips of news about ufos and the government confirming? President Obama has an interesting late night segment. How warm and fuzzy do you feel when an ex-gov official confirms objects in the sky they can't explain...
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By Adamb2025
I have a 1990 Honda fourtrax 300 2x4
I rode the other day for 30-45 min. Switched it off and now it is completely dead..
battery is fully charged, fuses are good . WILL NOT TURN OVER ,
headlights won't turn on , No neutral, reverse or oil temp lights . Electrically it is completely dead !!! I replaced the key switch and CDI box , STILL NOTHING.
I bypassed the neutral safety switch and grounded it to the battery and still nothing !! I used a jumper wire on the starter Solenoid , the motor will turn over but not start . I even bypassed both fuses and straight wired it to see if I could get a neutral light or headlights still nothing . What could it be ?
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By Olchap
Hi, I am new to this forum and I am happy to be here. I purchased a Yamaha 350 Big Bear without a title and I cannot find a Vin number to find out what year it is. I am hoping someone here can help me identify this atv. I checked on the main frame near the front A-arm left side found nothing. I checked up near the radiator and found nothing. Where else should I look? See image below.
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By davefrombc
Anyone carrying a power box when camping with their ATV? I built a custom one. I used a marine battery box that has 2 50A Anderson Grey connector outputs ( changed one of the greys to a red), an accessory socket and2 USB outlets,and a battery voltmeter .. I added a Pure sine wave 1,000w inverter to it and A red 120A Anderson connector to the output posts.. To charge the 100Ah LiFePO4 battery I put in the box, I added a DC to DC charge adapter that I made input connectors for to allow charging the battery from a vehicle's accessory socket or a solar panel.
It was a fun project.. Besides having a 1,000w power box for 120V ac , USB and 12v accessories using the 10 A socket. I have 50 A Anderson connectors and the 120 A connector to run things like a 12v electric outboard for fishing trips . The LiFePO4 battery only allows a max output of 100A so it can't be used for something like jump starting, but it is half the weight and delivers twice the capacity of a lead acid battery running accessories.. Commercial pow2er boxes don't deliver high draw 12v output to run things like the electric outboards. That's one reason I custom built mine. One box that serves for both camping and fishing.
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By mywifeknowseverythin
For those of you who are into coffee, I found this little article that might interest some of you.
I admit it. I am a coffee snob. I try not to be obnoxious about it, but let the record show: I enjoy a really great cup of coffee. But pay $4 a cup for it? No way. Even snobs have their limits.
Over the years, I’ve learned that a really good cup of coffee has less to do with money and more to do with knowledge and care. In fact—and this is the amazing thing—the more I learn, the less I spend.
BEANS. Purchase whole bean coffee as soon after it has been roasted as possible. Freshness is the key to a superb cup of coffee. Purchase in small amounts—only as much as you can use within 2 weeks of being roasted.
RATIO. The perfect ratio of coffee beans (prior to grinding) and water is: One-half cup whole beans to 8 cups of water.
GRIND. Grind your beans as close to brew time as possible. A burr or mill grinder that crushes the beans is preferable to a blade grinder that cuts them. Once ground, coffee should be used immediately.
WATER. If your water is highly chlorinated use bottled or filtered water. It must be right at 200 F, just short of boiling temperature, when it hits the dry grinds. This is critical to creating a great cup of coffee. Consume immediately.
STORE. The enemies of roasted coffee beans are air, moisture, heat and light—in that order. Keep your beans in an airtight container that is not close to moisture (sink, dishwasher), heat (oven, stove) or light (countertop). Do not store your daily coffee in the refrigerator or freezer because contact with moisture causes it to deteriorate. For larger quantities of roasted beans that you cannot use within 2 weeks, wrap in airtight bags and store for up to a month in the freezer—making sure the beans are completely protected against moisture. Once removed from the freezer, do not return.
BUY. Most supermarkets offer high-quality, roasted coffee beans for $.60 to $1 per ounce ($9.50 - $16.00 per pound). Ouch! Discount warehouse clubs like Costco, Sam’s and B.J.’s have considerably less expensive coffee at about $9 a pound for name brands like Starbuck’s and Peet’s. Still, that’s too rich for my blood.
ROAST. I roast my own coffee for two reasons: It is infinitely better tasting and half the price. I purchase green coffee beans by mail order for about $4 - $6 a pound, depending on current conditions and variety. I started out roasting in a popcorn popper (West Bend’s Poppery II is ideal) and have graduated to a small coffee roaster. My favorite resource for everything from roasting instructions to green coffee beans is http://www.u-roast-em.com/. Owner Jim Cameron has a wealth of knowledge and is anxious to share.
You won’t believe how easy it is to roast coffee. And enjoyable, too. I roast only one-week’s worth at a time—about twenty minutes. Green coffee beans have an indefinite, useful shelf life of at least a year, and probably two or longer. But I’ll never know. Coffee beans just don’t last that long around my house!
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