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By Zach Jump
Have a problem I have not been able to figure out.
While back the fuel pump went out...replaced it. I got maybe 30 minutes..maybe less before the new one went out.
Replaced it again...same thing. Now I am sitting with two more new fuel pumps in reserve but do not want to experiment and blow out another until I have a clue of what could be wrong.
Have checked electrical...seems to be fine but I am no expert. Also the fuse is just fine.
Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....
My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires.... Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?
It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"
Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.
By Aaron Skinner
ok ive brought my son a Apache 100cc quad bike ans it seems to have a spark issue..
When i got it i couldnt get a spark then i messed around with it and got a spark and got it running, then it just died after 30 mins, now no spark so i replaced spark plug, ignition coil, cdi, ignition switch, stator and regulator and got a spark again now its gone again?
Ive check the wiring to see if any loose connectors, cant start by electric start because the starter clutch is broken so can only kick start it and thats a pain as it sometimes slips ( needs new teeth on it)
the kill switch us 2 wires that are just loose no switch anymore as it broken and the other wires i think are for the lights and the electric start lever which is now broke
Im crap with electrics so not sure how to trace and test
also my new stator has 6 wires instead of 5 so i am unsure how to wire it, see pictures of mine the correct one and the other off ebay which they say to re-wire
any help with this guys?
Ok got a quad if a mate that's helped me out a few times said I look at it for him
Been sat for 6 years in a barn checked spark and also changed the spark plug after a sonic clean of the carb started and started easy but when you use the throttle it bogs and near dies
Now this unit has 2 tanks one for oil and one for fuel for the moment I'm bypassing the 2 tanks and using only a fuel mix direct in to the carb could this be causing the problem ?
I've done a second clean and refitted and still the same even as the air screw was near fully in it was said from watching a few vids that is was starving of fuel so I've increased the pin on the throttle up a notch but still no difference
There is not much adjustments on the carb so assume there's not much to go wrong but I was going to buy another carb but I can't find the right one here a pic of the actual carb
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I own a 2002 Can-Am Quest 650.
It will start if you massage the throttle a bit and it will continue to run. BUT if you let go of the throttle and try to let it idle it will always die warm or cold.
It has Non-Oxy premium gas, a new gapped NGK plug, a new carb (as of today) and fresh fluids. After installing the new carb it runs exactly the same.
I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb:
The choke still doesn't do anything. It has a good cable and it is hooked up. It on fully off. There is a cable in the top, front of the engine that splits into two connectors. The connected side is in the photo. The other side has the yellow banded section and is not connected. I do not see anything in range of this connector so I don't know if this is normal or not??? The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. I'll use it as a spare. I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Looking for some help. I want to ride!
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