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I'm likely going to have to drop the swingarm on a 300FW. Are the lock rings and pivot bolts standard or left handed threads? I looked at the service manual and it doesn't specify left hand so I"m assuming standard right handed threads. Not sure though. The last Yamaha I had apart was regular right handed threads but haven't had a 300 apart before.
By Dra O
I likely just kissed $200 goodbye buying a Honda 250 this AM from Craiglist. We'll see.
- VIN number is off the front frame; one VIN site calls it a 2008 Honda 250 TRX - this baby ain't a 2008; other VIN sites list the VIN as invalid; might be that the owner (a shady dude from a shadier side of my home town) put a 2008 front end on it? No idea.
- a HUGE hint (hint #1) would've been that there's no key to start the machine - gotta use a screwdriver. I'll likely be visited by police sometime in the near future.
- owner acquired from another man - owner showed me video of him riding it this summer on a major interstate while very drunk (hint #2) - the machine sounded good in the video
- no front headlight; owner said machine has new carb - looks Chinese - he didn't have original carb; air intake box is wide open - no long plastic connection sleeve leading into air box like on my 99 king quad; no visible oil leaks; oil is dark; air filter clean; decent plastic; no front right brake apparatus; left brake handle very loose and rear brake doesn't work
- battery at this point is good; manipulate the ignition switch w/ screw driver and the green neutral light shines (this has since stopped working)
- it's a kick start machine: when I kicked it down (hint #3), the compression sounded normal, almost "tight" but at the end of the cycle, there was some awful grinding noise coming from what sounded like either inside the engine or the starter area; I let it settle, kicked it again, same noise heard at the end of cycle; owner said it likely needs a new starter - I only hope it's this simple
pictures attached - the throttle cable / zip tie pic is my favorite - but it works! it was CRAZY dirty prior to pressure washing - and the water in air box is likely secondary to the power wash - no water was in it when purchased
gotta few things to complete on the king quad - will be changing motor/gear oil in honda and getting new oil filter over time - talk soon - hope y'all had a great Christmas
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Ok...I'm gettin' me juevos ready to do an oir filter clean....
Went to my local harley/quad dealer and he had me purchase the No-Toil kit (Cleaner, Air Filter Oil, Rim Grease)
What I've read is that the No-Toil cleaner will NOT clean
other oils off air filters....just the No-Toil oil....
So, I've also read that others have cleaned their air filters
in the kitchen sink, used gasoline, or used flash solvent....
Looking for advice as I've mentioned I'm very mechanically
I'm going to wash the air box seal in the sink and give it a good dry....
One more thing......No-Toil or Bel-Ray for filter oil?
Has anyone found engine oil in their air filter box. The must be little or no baffle between crankcase ventilation and that hose that attaches to the air filter box.
I went to pick up my ATV today 60 miles away that they could not fix the jerky low speeds on and before I loaded it decided to check on this. Sure enough there was a good coating of oil with some pooling in the bottom of the air filter box. The air filter has oil on it too but is it a dry element or oiled element type. My guess from the color of it dry.
I heard on a comment on my YT videos that there is a kit for this issue? Is this a CFMOTO fix?
I'm going into my '11 Grizz 700 to adjust valve clearance for the first time and when I button everything back up I'll be replacing all the gaskets / o-rings. The 5 I'll be replacing include (from the top down) both valve cover gaskets, cylinder head cover gasket, and the 2 gaskets in the crankcase cover.
Do I need to coat these gaskets with motor oil before putting them on like when replacing your oil filter?
Have a 2011 Grizz 700 and for the diff oil the manual calls for SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil. I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic but as it comes in two different weights I'm not sure which one to get....either the 75W-90 or the 75W-140.
The 75W-90 is listed as GL-5 and is recommended for use in 'high-performance vehicles like SUVs, vans and light duty trucks.' The 75W-140 weight is also GL-5 and is recommended for 'high-performance vehicles including sport utility vehicles, vans and light-duty trucks.'
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