Quantcast
Jump to content


Engine options to fit a 2001 Yamaha Warrior


bakaboi1

Recommended Posts

The first thing to consider when doing an engine swap is, do you have the necessary tools, resources and enginuity to pull it off. You need to swap over not only a motor, but everything that goes with it. You will need to he handy with a welder or know someone who is, and have the necessary means to do other metal fabrication as well. Is it really going to be more benificial to do a swap or should you just fix your existing motor. That being said, I think your best bet would be an early '80's ATC 250R motor or a Blaster motor. Reason being, they are 2-strokes, so they will be smaller and easier to work with and have a better power to weight/size ratio than any 4-stroke that may be in your price range. There is going to be alot less hardware to deal with too. They are both air-cooled, so you don't need to worry about a radiator. The 250R motor will be more powerful in stock form, but there is more parts availability for the Blaster motor, and even though a stock Blaster motor is pretty tame, there is plenty of power potential there so it is a good starting point. Both motors will be smaller and lighter than the Warrior motor, and while the Blaster engine won't be much of a power gain, it has more potential than the Warrior. The 250R motor however, will be a nice boost up from the stock Warrior engine, but parts will be a little harder to find. They are still out there though, plenty of people still run the old air-cooled ATC's, and I have seen some that flat out haul as*. The one thing you will loose is the electric start and reverse, on the plus side of that, you will be ditching a decent amount of weight. The only 4-stroke motor I think you might have a chance of swapping in with your budget is a Honda 400EX motor. It would be a good upgrade, but there are more parts to work with and it would be ALOT more work. Plus, I doubt you could find everything you need in good running shape for $800.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found a yamaha warrior engine for $300 but it needs to be bored so im ggoing to put a big bore kit on it...do U think Italy good idea

I would go with a big bore kit and a stage one hotcam. The site that Trailblazer mentioned has a decent price on the kit. The big bore stroker kit he mentioned might end up being outside of your budget when it is all said and done. Here is a site that has a 370cc big bore kit and they will do all the machine work too for less than $279. Or, they will do a stock size piston kit with machine work for $169. They will re-work your head, install a cam and set the valvle lash for $160. I would just call them up, tell them what you want and see what they are going to charge. The prices seem good, so I am sure you can wind up with a strong running motor with a decent boost in power and still stay inside your budget. Here is a link to the site. Yamaha Warrior performance kit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By McG75
      Hello I’m new here and was wondering is anyone knew of good replacement part numbers for front struts and rear shocks for this atv? I think I’ve found a new rear shock, that looks like the original but there is no dimensions or anything and was wondering if there are any afterMarket new front struts available. I know it’s a long shot but any help would be appreciated. 
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
×
×
  • Create New...