Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

bakaboi1

Engine options to fit a 2001 Yamaha Warrior

Recommended Posts

I need some help trying to find a engine with alot of torque and power that can fit on my 2001 yamaha warrior frame Or if you can tell me some places to look

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I need some help trying to find a engine with alot of torque and power that can fit on my 2001 yamaha warrior frame Or if you can tell me some places to look

What's your budget?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first thing to consider when doing an engine swap is, do you have the necessary tools, resources and enginuity to pull it off. You need to swap over not only a motor, but everything that goes with it. You will need to he handy with a welder or know someone who is, and have the necessary means to do other metal fabrication as well. Is it really going to be more benificial to do a swap or should you just fix your existing motor. That being said, I think your best bet would be an early '80's ATC 250R motor or a Blaster motor. Reason being, they are 2-strokes, so they will be smaller and easier to work with and have a better power to weight/size ratio than any 4-stroke that may be in your price range. There is going to be alot less hardware to deal with too. They are both air-cooled, so you don't need to worry about a radiator. The 250R motor will be more powerful in stock form, but there is more parts availability for the Blaster motor, and even though a stock Blaster motor is pretty tame, there is plenty of power potential there so it is a good starting point. Both motors will be smaller and lighter than the Warrior motor, and while the Blaster engine won't be much of a power gain, it has more potential than the Warrior. The 250R motor however, will be a nice boost up from the stock Warrior engine, but parts will be a little harder to find. They are still out there though, plenty of people still run the old air-cooled ATC's, and I have seen some that flat out haul ass. The one thing you will loose is the electric start and reverse, on the plus side of that, you will be ditching a decent amount of weight. The only 4-stroke motor I think you might have a chance of swapping in with your budget is a Honda 400EX motor. It would be a good upgrade, but there are more parts to work with and it would be ALOT more work. Plus, I doubt you could find everything you need in good running shape for $800.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found a yamaha warrior engine for $300 but it needs to be bored so im ggoing to put a big bore kit on it...do U think Italy good idea

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I found a yamaha warrior engine for $300 but it needs to be bored so im ggoing to put a big bore kit on it...do U think Italy good idea

I would go with a big bore kit and a stage one hotcam. The site that Trailblazer mentioned has a decent price on the kit. The big bore stroker kit he mentioned might end up being outside of your budget when it is all said and done. Here is a site that has a 370cc big bore kit and they will do all the machine work too for less than $279. Or, they will do a stock size piston kit with machine work for $169. They will re-work your head, install a cam and set the valvle lash for $160. I would just call them up, tell them what you want and see what they are going to charge. The prices seem good, so I am sure you can wind up with a strong running motor with a decent boost in power and still stay inside your budget. Here is a link to the site. Yamaha Warrior performance kit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By J Printz
      i have a 2004 Yamaha Kodiak 450 and it is losing oil but does not smoke what is it
    • By Chase Cook
      I have a 2001 yamaha yfm350x and it has a brand new top end, new carburetor (stopped the leaking problem and is now getting gas to it), new CDI box, new stator, handlebar switches work, off-and-on switch works, new starter solenoid (works), new neutral relay (works), ordered a new Rectifier on its way, good strong blue spark. Has compression, valves are right. Timings is right and is TDC. When I try to start it it just makes a loud popping noise like its backfiring but it's not because its not running when I push the throttle all the way and when i barly push the throttle it try to start but won't, so I'm trying to figure out what could be the problem not starting now, Getting very fustrated with this thing and put some work and money into it and it's not still not working. This is the only atv I ever had that I can not figure out the problem to get running. Need help please..
    • By Chase Cook
      I have a Yamaha 350 in at once to try to fire up but won't. It's getting gas fire air and it has a lot of compression but still struggles to start check the timing it's top dead center valves are good valves are adjusted everything's working but won't fire I put my hand over the carb suck in gas and it tries to but it makes a lot of black smoke. Also when I put my hand over do you carb and tried to start it there's black black nasty stuff in the gas. So I don't know if it's trying to burn too much or what it is the gas tank clean and it anything to do with the gas it's with it firing. Took the spark plug out and it's pure black. What is dried up black not nasty corroded wet looking. Need help to solve the issue
    • By Squirrel
      Several months ago, I finally got around to fixing the bayou. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel selector switch, hoses and fuel filter, and she ran great. Only had 2 minor issues since then where, at higher speeds, it acted like it was choking out when I let off the throttle.
      Lately I've noticed if I let it go for more than a week, it almost drains the battery dead trying to start. I initially thought battery, but after inspecting I found very little if not any fuel flow through the line until it starts and runs.
      I'm a little baffled and don't have much time to mess with it as most my free time right now is spent on getting my rv up and ready for hunting season in the next 3 weeks. So any help on quick diagnosis checks would be helpful. Otherwise I'll just keep starting it every 3-4 days to keep things primed until I'm done hunting.
       
      Oh, and another question on a different topic. Does anybody know what the mounting brackets on the front rack are for? I'm referring to the 2 angled metal tabs with threaded holes that are located on the left, near your knee when sitting on the quad?
       
      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
       
       
    • By Colby Calk
      I recently got a 98 warrior 350 that 'needed the carb adjusted' but the reality is it has no spark. I have a new spark plug, plug wire, ignition coil, battery, and cdi box. I checked continuity and took apart and inspected the starter/kill/light switch on the handle bar, and it all looks brand new and checked out. The key switch seems to be working properly, as when off, nothing works, but when switched on, lights and electric starter button work. It turns over fine, and as I just stated, all the lights work. I took all the plastics off and traced all the wires, and only one had a small cut in it, but it was only through the rubber sheathing, not the wire itself (the blue one coming from the stator). I cleaned some grounds, made sure both relays work, and still nothing. I pulled the stator cover and looked at the stator itself, and it looks great. No broken wires or connectors or anything. Still, no spark. I'm at a loss. Where do I go next? Any help is appreciated.
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By weblex
      Problem: The ATV starts and runs at idle perfectly. But as soon as I open the throttle, the engine starts to slow down until it stops. On the attached video you can hear the sound of how it works: see video below
      Prehistory: there is a Polaris Sportsman 500 1998, which for about 1.5 years stood in repair, including also replacing CDI with one taken from the same ATV. Finally, the vehicles were on wheels, traveled several kilometers and overheated - forgot to fill the antifreeze Came back home in small moves. The next trip started well, but after 10 km there was a feeling of a small drop in power (even as the vehicle got warm completely) but still drives. Next trip - the situation is repeated. The next test of ATV through time and a huge loss of power from the very beginning. The engine sneezes, does not want to go more than 5 mph.

      What has been done: the carburetor has been replaced with a new one (inexpensive, $ 40), a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, the engine head has been removed, the piston is in good condition, valves were corrected - but the problem was definitely not in them.

      Ignition control unit is suspected. Who faced similar? Please help in solving the problem.
      Thanks in advance.
       
       
    • By JacobSlabach
      in this thread, I want to discuss how 4-cycle atv engines work- what the different types are...  how they are set up and which you prefer.  To start off, are the cams on ALL atv 4-strokes powered by a cam chain?  I know that on say a lawn mower or logsplitter engine, the cam is turned by the tappet, pushrods, and valve rockers.  Which is better and why?  Chain-driven cams or pushrod-driven cams?  Are the pushrods just an old version and everything is transforming to chains or the other way around...or not at all?  Just looking for some explanation, history, and downsides/upsides...
    • By mmgood
      Hey people
      Question for all, just picked a 1986 bayou 300 thinking of going synthetic any thoughts ?
    • By Arctic Snowdog
      Hi Guys,
      I have a small Sled Dog business and I train up to 14 Huskies pulling a Yamaha Grizzly 550, that is quite a lot of Horse (Dog) power. Sometimes in order to make the ride smoother for Dogs and us we ride in Neutral but on a few occasions I have noticed that the right hand (front) brake seems to loose pressure and does not brake at all. Is there a particular reason for this ? Is it a fault or is it something to do with us riding in neutral, I only use the ATV in this way a few months a year before the snow comes but I am sure I recall the same thing happening last season.
      Any ideas would be greatly appreciated because I am a far way from being a mechanic.....
      Have a super day and thank you all.
      Craig
      Lapland

    • By Wiktorix Gameplays
      Can I use an old snowblower engine in my 90cc quad? The old one blew up. 
      Thanks for the help. 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...