Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have the 250 Utility (2008) with atuto trans any one have problems with it. Also is replacing the clutch bearing a long prcess. Dirt demon I grew up in your neck of the woods just a liitle north and west of you.

Edited by Sarge
Posted

There are only two bearings in the whole clutch assembly, they are all the way behind the driven side of the belt drive, which includes the clutch and the driven belt sheaves. So you will start by removing the clutch and work your way back, sure there is alot of parts to deal with, but looking at the layout, it doesn't look that hard. Just make sure you keep all the parts laying in the order that they came off, so you can remember how they go back. The bearings are in the back of the inner belt sheave, from what I can tell, there is a needle bearing, then a circlip that I suspect holds the ball bearing in place inside of the sheave. I would recommend getting yourself a repair manual, it will have more detailed instructions than I can give, and it will have torque specs that you will need to properly put things back together.

So, you are a former Washingtonian? Edgewood, Milton, Fife and Federal Way are all North West of here, where exactly are you from?

Posted

I see, I work out of Kent and do alot utiltiy work in the surrounding areas, Burien included, we also have a base in Marysville, I don't go up there much except to occasionally transport equipment between bases.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadnut20
      Just picked up a 2025 Yamaha Kodiak 700 fixing to do a EPI Clutch mod to it since I dropped bigger tires on it !! Air box , exhaust , and programmer next ! 

    • By Jason39
      I’m having a issue with my choke when its on it runs fine when I cut the choke off the atv cuts off went to take the carburetor off and saw the choke plunger broke at the nut to screw it in could this be my issue? Do I just need to buy a plunger kit and put it on? I took the carburetor off and cleaned both jets anyway just to make sure and it’s still having issues staying on
         
    • By BuckBilly
      Just thought I would start a poll on this topic manly because I'm not a fan of belt drives. Just want to know which you prefer.
    • By Gwbarm
      I have had my new tires for a while, chronic procrastinator, decided it was time to get them mounted up. Against my better judgement i decided to mount them myself.
       

      I got one of these Harbour Freight manual tire mounting machines, mounted it to a half pallet to make it more portable. Very impressed with the quality and amount of tools that came in the kit for a low price point.
       

      The bead breaker worked very well, i wasnt sure it would be able to do it, i think these tires are original to the bike its a 2004, but with enough lube, mothers concentrated car wash straight, it finally broke the bead.
       

      Tire fit very well on the machine and it tightened down good.
       

      The extra long pry bar that came with the kit worked well to get the outer rim of tire off.
       

      Half way there, half way there no issues, then it got serious.
       

      I pulled and i tugged had 3 prybars working this thing and it wouldnt budge no matter what i tried it would not come off, until i got the grinder out and cut it off. Im sure most of you see what the problem was. I didnt notice it until i was too far in to change direction. On this particular rim the tire goes on and off from the back side of the rim, not the front like what i was used to. The back side is the low side. Plus to add to the problem tires were old and not very strechy, i have a greater respect for how well these ATV tires are made with well reinforced sidewalls, even with the grinder it took me a minute or two to cut through it, of couse i was being very careful not to nick the rim. Anyway the HF machine worked well and the tire is off, hopefully the next one wont be this bad. Lot of hard work for an old man, glad i can still do it.
       

      Now for the fun part , cleaning up the old rim, years of stop leak and slime caked on the inside, that stuff dries hard, the little Milwaukee is good for getting into tight spaces, but wasnt quite up to the task.
       

      Needed a few more RPMs.

      Old rattlecan paint just flaked right off. Now time to decide on a new color, tired of the boring gray. More to come!
    • By sunn
      The clutch engagement on my 2021 cforce 400s was approx 2700 RPM, very abrupt/not smooth.   I obtained a "kit" from RNG consisting of a blue painted spring (spring force unknown) with 12 gram weights, as measured on my postal scale.  Installation was easy; 18 mm and 30 mm (not 32 mm as seen on other writings) impact sockets for clutch housing removal.  The resultant clutch engagement was still up to approx 2500 and very abupt/not smooth.
       The original spring was labeled p/n 0951-1021 (specs for spring force 300/1600) with 18 gram weights.
      I called RNG who told me the kit should work fine for my ATV, but that wasn't the case as I found.  
      The RNG spring was slightly longer than the stock spring, but felt slightly easier at initial downward force but had more resistance than stock as I continued to push down.  RNG would not tell me what the spring force was.
      I then tested the clutch with the RNG spring and the OEM 18 gram weights with the resultant engagement RPM of about 2050 RPM, a little smoother engagement but still not good.
      I am really struggling to get any answers on the best combination of spring / weights to achieve a smooth engagement of maybe 1800 RPM.  Note; idle RPM is approx. 1600.
      I have searched all the forums and cannot find good information, and RNG appears to be not willing to share information.  What gives here?  Anyone with experience to share?
×
×
  • Create New...