Quantcast
Jump to content


2000 Yamaha Warrior Loud 'Clanking' from rear end


Evader53

Recommended Posts

So I was getting the quads off the trailer after sitting for 3.5 months and one makes this loud 'clanking' sound from the rear end. Its a 2000 Warrior 350.

As best as I can tell, its from the axle area but I'm not 100% sure. It happens when it is rolling. It didn't do this when we put them on the trailer back in march.

Here are two videos showing the sound;

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj5AMJ2_H7U[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cborkO8p5Dk[/ame]

The second video shows it the best. I dont know what it is... bearings maybe? Please let me know!

Edited by Evader53
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it every revolution of the inside of the sprocket hub? Or the chain?

Neither... Its completely random. Sometimes it wont do it at all over 5 revolutions or so, othertimes it will do it constantly.

Im uploading another video now with the back tires suspended that I will post once uploaded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest S-Hardy

yeah that's what it sounds like to me I had a artic cat dvx 400 and it was making a sound kinda like that and that's what was wrong with mine. It didn't take no tym too fix it when you pick it up and roll the ack wheels is there any slack in in the axle. If so u should be able to tell if you grab the wheel and move it back and fourth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By kiriyaaoi
      Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves.  From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
       
      1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match.  I have no idea what this would cost.
      2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
       
      #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option.  However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number,  11100-19B10, instead of  11100-19B01 like for all earlier models.  What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years.  Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical.  Would those work as well possibly?  I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on.  Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
       
      Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
         
       
    • By Lafytafy
      should i run a thicker oil in a older quad because it make a little more noise than usual 
×
×
  • Create New...