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1994 Yamaha Kodiak Cools Off, Cranks but Won't Start?

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•••• My ATV: '94 Yamaha Kodiak 400 - YFM400FWF ••••

I know you've heard this before, but as you can see by the list below,

I've tried all the Normal stuff.

If the engine sits for any period of time and cools below 80 degrees, it won't start.

I've checked all of the following, but the it still won't start when cool. The spark plug gets saturated with gas after cranking - choke or no choke.

No fuel runs out of overflow.

  1. Got good spark (OK) - NGK IRIDIUM DR8EIX - gap 0.28
  2. Carb rebuilt (OK)
  3. Rechecked float pin and seat (OK)
  4. Pilot Jet set 2 turns out (OK)
  5. Removed and Checked Choke O-ring (OK)
  6. Adjusted intake and exhaust valves reset to spec. (OK)
  7. Battery charged (OK)
  8. Checked, Cleaned and applied Dielectric grease to All Wiring Connections.
  9. Got good compression 118 psi cold engine. - 152 psi Warm

After I warmed the head with a blowing propane heater and it did finally start and would start easily when the engine was warm.

What else is there to check?

Saturday 10/15/2011, it was unseasonably warm (80 degrees) The Kodiak started right up.

••• Still guessing

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I would change the sparkplug if you didn't. Probally a long show but who knows.

I know somtimes when you pull it out to check the spark it will but then when it is undercompression in the chamber it won't. (Bad Plug) It happened a few times to friends and is always a easy try if you have one lying around.

A cold engine is harder to turn over. The only other option I can think of is that the timing is slightly off.

It is hard to say because it starts right up when warm. I am just guessing something with the spark because it looks like you have enough fuel.

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I swapped out three different new plugs- still no start - same good spark from each.

I notice choke seal part (Seal) #34 was missing.

Could this be the problem?


Heres the Carb Parts Diagram


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Well, installed the missing choke seal - no help.

It still won't start when the engine is cool to the touch.

I fired up the propane heater, let it blow on the engine for thirty minutes and…

… it started like a champ.

I checked the spark again and got the fire shocked out of me… Good Spark.

I talked to the dealer again… they don't have a clue either.

Still hunting for the solution… stay tuned.

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@hangingon - Yep, checked the choke first thing.

I dont think it would idle so smooth when it DOES start if the choke wasnt closing.

@Swampcat07 - Off to the dealer AGAIN today. Wondering what he will test that I havent already done.

BTW: Anyone know why an apostrophe doesnt show up when I type???

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The Kodiak went to the dealer today. The mechanic did a complete inspection of the carb.

Nothing much was wrong, but he didn't like the brass aftermarket main jet needle. He changed it back to the stock needle. He said most aftermarket needle sets were in spec.

He also changed the O-Ring on the Fuel/Air needle.

When I left he got it started after a lot of cranking and fooling with the intake.

It idles smooth just like it did when I would start it by heating up the head and spark plug.

He wanted to keep it over night and check some other things in the morning after it was completely cool.

Stay tune to the continuing saga.

BTW: The stator checked out as Good.

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Sounds like you are getting closer.

Not all jets sizes are the same here is a conversion chart that I saved from another forum.

Width------Keihin # -- DynoJet # -- Mikuni #

0.0350---- 92.5--------- 92----------- 86.3

0.0360---- 95----------- 94----------- 88.1

0.0370---- 97.5--------- 96----------- 90.0

0.0380---- 100---------- 98----------- 91.9

0.0390---- 102.5------- 100---------- 93.8

0.0400---- 105--------- 102---------- 95.6

0.0410---- 107.5------- 104---------- 97.5

0.0420---- 110--------- 106---------- 99.4

0.0430---- 112.5------- 108--------- 101.3

0.0440---- 115--------- 110--------- 103.1

0.0450---- 117.5------- 112--------- 105.0

0.0460---- 120--------- 114--------- 106.9

0.0470---- 122.5------- 116--------- 108.8

0.0480---- 125--------- 118--------- 110.6

0.0490---- 127.5------- 120--------- 112.5

0.0500---- 130--------- 122--------- 114.4

0.0510---- 132.5------- 124--------- 116.3

0.0520---- 135--------- 126--------- 118.1

0.0530---- 137.5------- 128--------- 120.0

0.0540---- 140--------- 130--------- 121.9

0.0550---- 142.5------- 132--------- 123.8

0.0560---- 145--------- 134--------- 125.6

0.0570---- 147.5------- 136--------- 127.5

0.0580---- 150--------- 138--------- 129.4

0.0590---- 152.5------- 140--------- 131.3

0.0600---- 155--------- 142--------- 133.1

0.0610---- 157.5------- 144--------- 135.0

0.0620---- 160--------- 146--------- 136.9

0.0630---- 162.5------- 148--------- 138.8

0.0640---- 165--------- 150--------- 140.6

0.0650---- 167.5------- 152--------- 142.5

0.0660---- 170--------- 154--------- 144.4

0.0670---- 172.5------- 156--------- 146.3

0.0680---- 175--------- 158--------- 148.1

0.0690---- 177.5------- 160--------- 150.0

0.0700---- 180--------- 162--------- 151.9

0.0710---- 182.5------- 164--------- 153.8

0.0720---- 185--------- 166--------- 155.6

0.0730---- 187.5------- 168--------- 157.5

0.0740---- 190--------- 170--------- 159.4

0.0750---- 192.5------- 172--------- 161.3

0.0760---- 195--------- 174--------- 163.1

0.0770---- 197.5------- 176--------- 165.0

0.0780---- 200--------- 178--------- 166.9

0.0790---- 202.5------- 180--------- 168.8

0.0800---- 205--------- 182--------- 170.6

0.0810---- 207.5------- 184--------- 172.5

0.0820---- 210--------- 186--------- 174.4

0.0830---- 212.5------- 188--------- 176.3

0.0840---- 215--------- 190--------- 178.1

0.0850---- 217.5------- 192--------- 180.0

0.0860---- 220--------- 194--------- 181.9

0.0870---- 222.5------- 196--------- 183.7

0.0880---- 225--------- 198--------- 185.6

0.0890---- 227.5------- 200--------- 187.5

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I left the Kodiak at the Dealer Thursday, 20 Oct.

They are still trying to figure out why it starts and runs like a champ when warm, but wont try to start when the engine is the least bit cool.

As of Saturday 22 Oct, No solution. After again testing most everything I had already tested,

The Dealer has no clue whats wrong.

Dealer closed on Monday, so I wont know any more until Tuesday.

Stay Tuned...

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Reference Post: Kodiak Cools Off - Cranks but Won"t Start?

The '94 Kodiak has been at the dealer for 3 days with no results, except for the dealer charging me $200 to check the things I told him I had already checked.

They don't have a clue. The latest from the dealer is "You probably need a TOP END at $400". I know it's 15 years old, but it only has only 900 easy miles on it.

The compression is pretty high when it's warmed up. (170 psi) spec is 140 psi.

When engine is cool the compression reads 115 psi, well within specs.

I'm going to pull the head and check for carbon build up, but I still don't understand how it starts and idles like a champ when it's warm.

Any ideas that will save me $400 will be HIGHLY APPRECIATED.

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I think the choke operation is messed up.

* Moved Post to existing thread. Added year and manufacturer to thread title.

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I didn't have the tools for the leak down test.

so I ask the dealer if they did a leak down test.

ANSWER: NO...uh..but we should have.

This is the only Yamaha Dealer within 80 miles, so I'm stuck.

Stay tuned...

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have you tried pulling the air filter off and not use the choke to start it but put your hand over the carb. choke it with your hand too see if it will start

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I'm pulling the head and checking rings and cylinder walls.

This is the only thing on the Kodiak that hasn't been checked.

I believe i've got a bad ring or cylinder wall letting small amounts of oil into the combustion chamber.

The Kodiak only starts when warm.

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