Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

•••• My ATV: '94 Yamaha Kodiak 400 - YFM400FWF ••••

I know you've heard this before, but as you can see by the list below,

I've tried all the Normal stuff.

If the engine sits for any period of time and cools below 80 degrees, it won't start.

I've checked all of the following, but the it still won't start when cool. The spark plug gets saturated with gas after cranking - choke or no choke.

No fuel runs out of overflow.

  1. Got good spark (OK) - NGK IRIDIUM DR8EIX - gap 0.28
  2. Carb rebuilt (OK)
  3. Rechecked float pin and seat (OK)
  4. Pilot Jet set 2 turns out (OK)
  5. Removed and Checked Choke O-ring (OK)
  6. Adjusted intake and exhaust valves reset to spec. (OK)
  7. battery charged (OK)
  8. Checked, Cleaned and applied Dielectric grease to All Wiring Connections.
  9. Got good compression 118 psi cold engine. - 152 psi Warm

After I warmed the head with a blowing propane heater and it did finally start and would start easily when the engine was warm.

What else is there to check?

Saturday 10/15/2011, it was unseasonably warm (80 degrees) The Kodiak started right up.

••• Still guessing

Posted

I would change the sparkplug if you didn't. Probally a long show but who knows.

I know somtimes when you pull it out to check the spark it will but then when it is undercompression in the chamber it won't. (Bad Plug) It happened a few times to friends and is always a easy try if you have one lying around.

A cold engine is harder to turn over. The only other option I can think of is that the timing is slightly off.

It is hard to say because it starts right up when warm. I am just guessing something with the spark because it looks like you have enough fuel.

Posted

I swapped out three different new plugs- still no start - same good spark from each.

I notice choke seal part (Seal) #34 was missing.

Could this be the problem?

6264348866_0e899456bb_m.jpg

Heres the Carb Parts Diagram

6263803679_776d6b82c7_z.jpg

Posted

Well, installed the missing choke seal - no help.

It still won't start when the engine is cool to the touch.

I fired up the propane heater, let it blow on the engine for thirty minutes and…

… it started like a champ.

I checked the spark again and got the fire shocked out of me… Good Spark.

I talked to the dealer again… they don't have a clue either.

Still hunting for the solution… stay tuned.

Posted

@hangingon - Yep, checked the choke first thing.

I dont think it would idle so smooth when it DOES start if the choke wasnt closing.

@Swampcat07 - Off to the dealer AGAIN today. Wondering what he will test that I havent already done.

BTW: Anyone know why an apostrophe doesnt show up when I type???

Posted

The Kodiak went to the dealer today. The mechanic did a complete inspection of the carb.

Nothing much was wrong, but he didn't like the brass aftermarket main jet needle. He changed it back to the stock needle. He said most aftermarket needle sets were in spec.

He also changed the O-Ring on the Fuel/Air needle.

When I left he got it started after a lot of cranking and fooling with the intake.

It idles smooth just like it did when I would start it by heating up the head and spark plug.

He wanted to keep it over night and check some other things in the morning after it was completely cool.

Stay tune to the continuing saga.

BTW: The stator checked out as Good.

Posted

Sounds like you are getting closer.

Not all jets sizes are the same here is a conversion chart that I saved from another forum.

Width------Keihin # -- DynoJet # -- Mikuni #

0.0350---- 92.5--------- 92----------- 86.3

0.0360---- 95----------- 94----------- 88.1

0.0370---- 97.5--------- 96----------- 90.0

0.0380---- 100---------- 98----------- 91.9

0.0390---- 102.5------- 100---------- 93.8

0.0400---- 105--------- 102---------- 95.6

0.0410---- 107.5------- 104---------- 97.5

0.0420---- 110--------- 106---------- 99.4

0.0430---- 112.5------- 108--------- 101.3

0.0440---- 115--------- 110--------- 103.1

0.0450---- 117.5------- 112--------- 105.0

0.0460---- 120--------- 114--------- 106.9

0.0470---- 122.5------- 116--------- 108.8

0.0480---- 125--------- 118--------- 110.6

0.0490---- 127.5------- 120--------- 112.5

0.0500---- 130--------- 122--------- 114.4

0.0510---- 132.5------- 124--------- 116.3

0.0520---- 135--------- 126--------- 118.1

0.0530---- 137.5------- 128--------- 120.0

0.0540---- 140--------- 130--------- 121.9

0.0550---- 142.5------- 132--------- 123.8

0.0560---- 145--------- 134--------- 125.6

0.0570---- 147.5------- 136--------- 127.5

0.0580---- 150--------- 138--------- 129.4

0.0590---- 152.5------- 140--------- 131.3

0.0600---- 155--------- 142--------- 133.1

0.0610---- 157.5------- 144--------- 135.0

0.0620---- 160--------- 146--------- 136.9

0.0630---- 162.5------- 148--------- 138.8

0.0640---- 165--------- 150--------- 140.6

0.0650---- 167.5------- 152--------- 142.5

0.0660---- 170--------- 154--------- 144.4

0.0670---- 172.5------- 156--------- 146.3

0.0680---- 175--------- 158--------- 148.1

0.0690---- 177.5------- 160--------- 150.0

0.0700---- 180--------- 162--------- 151.9

0.0710---- 182.5------- 164--------- 153.8

0.0720---- 185--------- 166--------- 155.6

0.0730---- 187.5------- 168--------- 157.5

0.0740---- 190--------- 170--------- 159.4

0.0750---- 192.5------- 172--------- 161.3

0.0760---- 195--------- 174--------- 163.1

0.0770---- 197.5------- 176--------- 165.0

0.0780---- 200--------- 178--------- 166.9

0.0790---- 202.5------- 180--------- 168.8

0.0800---- 205--------- 182--------- 170.6

0.0810---- 207.5------- 184--------- 172.5

0.0820---- 210--------- 186--------- 174.4

0.0830---- 212.5------- 188--------- 176.3

0.0840---- 215--------- 190--------- 178.1

0.0850---- 217.5------- 192--------- 180.0

0.0860---- 220--------- 194--------- 181.9

0.0870---- 222.5------- 196--------- 183.7

0.0880---- 225--------- 198--------- 185.6

0.0890---- 227.5------- 200--------- 187.5

Posted

I left the Kodiak at the Dealer Thursday, 20 Oct.

They are still trying to figure out why it starts and runs like a champ when warm, but wont try to start when the engine is the least bit cool.

As of Saturday 22 Oct, No solution. After again testing most everything I had already tested,

The Dealer has no clue whats wrong.

Dealer closed on Monday, so I wont know any more until Tuesday.

Stay Tuned...

Posted

Reference Post: Kodiak Cools Off - Cranks but Won"t Start?

The '94 Kodiak has been at the dealer for 3 days with no results, except for the dealer charging me $200 to check the things I told him I had already checked.

They don't have a clue. The latest from the dealer is "You probably need a TOP END at $400". I know it's 15 years old, but it only has only 900 easy miles on it.

The compression is pretty high when it's warmed up. (170 psi) spec is 140 psi.

When engine is cool the compression reads 115 psi, well within specs.

I'm going to pull the head and check for carbon build up, but I still don't understand how it starts and idles like a champ when it's warm.

Any ideas that will save me $400 will be HIGHLY APPRECIATED.

Posted

I didn't have the tools for the leak down test.

so I ask the dealer if they did a leak down test.

ANSWER: NO...uh..but we should have.

This is the only Yamaha Dealer within 80 miles, so I'm stuck.

Stay tuned...

Posted

I'm pulling the head and checking rings and cylinder walls.

This is the only thing on the Kodiak that hasn't been checked.

I believe i've got a bad ring or cylinder wall letting small amounts of oil into the combustion chamber.

The Kodiak only starts when warm.

Posted

After tearing down the head the following was found.

1) Heavy carbon build up of head and piston.

2) Cylinder worn on one side (Egg Shaped)

SOLUTION:

Bore cylinder and get oversized piston and rings.

The engine would start when warm due to the expansion allowing for correct compression and no leakage.

CAUSE: The 1994 Kodiak is 17 Years Old with No Top End ever done.

Posted

I gave the dealer the OK to do the work.

Cost $400.

They have checked everything else from wiring to carb and the Kodiak is in great shape otherwise.

• Valves Good.

• Timing Chain Good.

• Cam and Crank Good.

• Transmission Good.

I am gonna need to replace some rubber boots.

I can replace a lot of stuff for less than $7000+ for a new machine.

Posted

The dealer just finished doing the last thing he thought was why the '94 Kodiak wouldn't start until the head was warmed up to 80 degrees.

A complete TOP END was done, cylinder bored, new piston and rings.

Still won't start when engine is cool to the touch.

THINGS DONE IN THE PAST.

  1. Carb rebuilt (Twice)
  2. Compression Checked
  3. CDI Tested Good
  4. All Relays tested Good
  5. All wiring Ohm to Spec.
  6. All wiring connection checked and dielectric grease added.
  7. Stator and Pulse Coil tested
  8. Three different Spark Plugs tried
  9. Spark Good
  10. Valves adjusted, Seats cleaned.
  11. Ignition Coil Replaced

I called YAMAHA Tech in California this morning, they have no clue what's causing the problem. They said have the Service Manager contact the Local Yamaha Rep.

The Saga Continues… Stay tuned.

Posted

The saga continues with my 94 Kodiak not starting when engine is cool to the touch, but will start and run great after warming the engine head to 80 degrees or above with a heat gun.

If you've been following my posts you know what has been checked and rechecked.

All of the following have been done by the dealer:

  1. Carb rebuilt
  2. Compression Good
  3. Leak Down check performed
  4. Ignition Coil checked
  5. All wiring ohm to spec
  6. Valves checked and adjusted
  7. Top End preformed
  8. Starter checked
  9. Voltage to Starter checked
  10. Pickup Coil ohm to spec
  11. Source Coil ohm to spec
  12. Spark Voltage to spec

It still won't start until engine is warmed. It does start with the pull rope.

I call Rickey Stator today and talked to Mike. He said to check the AC voltage from the Source Coil by using a volt meter set to AC by attaching it to the Source Coil wires (Brown and Green) and cranking the starter. He said it should read between 70 and 100 AC Volts.

I picked up the Kodiak from the dealer and Ill be trying the AC Voltage Test in the morning.

Ill also be contacting Yamaha Customer Service in California explaining how much I have paid one of their authorized dealers and that I"m no better off than when I bought the ATV in.

Oh, but I do have a new Top End that I didn't need. --- Stay tuned.

Posted

ThomTwo, I have merged your 4 threads on this same subject into this one original thread. Please do not start a new thread for updates on this topic, just update this thread. Thanks! :wink:

  • 7 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Fonne
      Hi 
      Is looking for a quad to pull a flail mower as my first priority, but also a bit of fun. 
      So its going to be pulling a flail mower on high grass / weed on a bumpy field at pretty low speed. 
      My budget is not high, so is mostly looking at a old Yamaha Kodiak 400cc / Suzuki Eiger 400cc or similar. 
      What machine would you recommend  ?  - Really want a solid machine since I am no mechanic but can perform a early service myself. 

      (English is not my native, hope it makes sense)

    • By realpilot
      I am unable to find a wiring diagram for this UTV.  When I turn the switch to on, the contractor does not engage.  The Brake pressure switch and the parking brake switches work correctly. What else should I be looking for?  All of the diagrams I have found are for newer models and the wire color coding is different.
       
      Thanks
    • By cfherrman
      Fixing for a friend. Atv was at a different friends house to be fixed and he rebuilt the carb and had it running nice, then it shut off and no more. He replaced the key and the coil.
       
      So he got busy, so I am helping, I checked the wiring from the stator to the cdi, and from the cdi to the coil. All is good. I checked resistance on the pickup coil, good, and on the source coil, open. I buy a new stator (China) and the 4 prong plug only has 3 wires in it while mine has all 4. I checked resistance in the source coil and it's in the 300's. I pulled one of the old pickup wires out of the old stator and wire it in the new one. Still no spark.
       
      Why do the wires differ, I checked the VIN again and it's "J" for the year and I got a 1988 stator. Please help!
    • By OldATVowner
      Just getting into this issue really. Been replacing solenoids but now I'd like to track down the problem. This time I'm not getting neutral/reverse lights or start button. Was on a creek ride when it started doing this recently. It cranks by arcing the solenoid and gives me no light or start button but if I crank with the pull cord....the neutral light and the button work. Turn it off and try to crank with the key and nothing. I'm looking into the safety switch issue tomorrow and re charging the battery. Just figured this was odd enough of a problem that you guys might be familiar. Thanks
    • By flyinbrian365
      View File 2023 Yamaha RMAX4 Wolverine 1000 service manual
      Factory service manual
      2023 Yamaha RMAX4 Wolverine service manual
      Submitter flyinbrian365 Submitted 06/08/2026 Category Yamaha UTV  
×
×
  • Create New...