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By Jeremy Morris
If you're getting that pesky leaky seal on the pinion of your front differential and the pinion has allot of play, polaris won't sell the bushing needed to repair it properly without having to shell out big bucks for the complete ring and pinion kit.
I have a kit with an upgraded bushing, Japanese made bearing and USmade seal
50 shipped in the US and 55 to Canada
By John Victor
My father-in-law gave my boy a 1999 350 Big Bear. It's been sitting in a barn for a bunch of years. It runs great! My boy has been riding a couple weeks now and it has developed a squeal coming from the front end when you get off the gas at speed. No noise during acceleration. At first I thought brakes. I took it for a ride and I don't think it is the brakes. I feel it is the front prop shaft U-joints, front differential or one/both axles. I pulled the fill plug on the differential and I can't find anywhere how much gear oil should be in there. My gut says up to the fill opening. It doesn't have a manual. It's wet in there, just don't see any gear oil.
#1 Should I fill the differential with gear oil up to the fill opening?
#2 How do I check or know if the u-joints are bad? That looks like a "Big Bear" of a job if they don't need to be replaced.
#3 What else could it be? I don't think it is the front bearings. I jacked the front wheels off ground and no play in the right wheel. Very little play in the left wheel, looks like the lower control bushing is where that play is coming from. The rubber CV boots look original but all still intact. Wheels spin easily without any noise.
Thanks for any help!
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
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I have completely replaced my front brake shoes, hoses, and master cylinder. I have bled the brakes the best I could. I am still unable to build up much pressure. The wheel cylinders only push out about 1/8" when the handle is squeezed.
What should be the typical travel on the cylinder for the brake shoe to hit the drum?
I've used a brake bleeder, but still can't get all of the air out.
I'm not sure what else to do.
I replaced the front and rear brakes on my 98 King Quad 300 today. The right front is dragging. it had plenty of clearance when I installed the drum. it turned normal until I tried to test drive it. Wheel cylinders were dry and not leaking. Also even with a dragging Right front brake they are weak. I wonder if it is something with the self adjuster and how can I get the drum back off. I just recently bought it for cheap because he got laid off of work so I don.t know any history on it. It didn't do it before but the brakes were very weak and thats why new brake shoes. old oned wereabout 60% gone. Thanks.
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