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Arctic Cat ATV Service Manuals
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By cfauvel
So I've had my bro-in-law's 4 wheeler to get it running again.
Ended up buying a new aftermarket carb, cleaning fuel tank, cleaning petcock and it works near perfectly .
put the petcock to PRI for about 5 seconds , turn it back to on, pull full enrichener , start it up (starts right up), slowly release the enrichener and put it in gear and go up down the road. Slow, fast, idle etc all good
BUT then out of the blue it will start missing badly (by this time the motor is hot), to the point I can't move the ATV.
Then out of the blue, maybe 30 seconds later, it is back to normal and I can go up and down the road for testing just fine.
I'm trying to get the ATV in tiptop shape to return to him, but bugged by this miss, I'm sure this machine will come back to me if it keeps missing...
Thanks in advance
BTW I am mechanically inclined, but not an expert on this atv...
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By Joe Dickerson
I decided to replace the rings and piston on this machine because it looked like the plug was being fouled by oil. When I removed the right side of engine to inspect the clutch pack, I found 2 small round pieces with tiny expansion rings in the bottom cover. It looks like "clutch pawls" according to the illustration, but Id like to be sure. I saw that there are 4 of these in the new gasket set.
Can someone help me here?
I thank you in advance
Joe
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By Dmitry Pesko
Does anyone have an online manual for a 1991 Polaris Trailboss 250? Or, if they could tell me where the fuel shutoff valve is, that would be even better. Thanks!
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By matthew smith
I have a honda recon 250 that i just bought. the compression is around 90 needs to be rebuilt. im getting into rebuilding it took apart the top end no problem except for the cylinder walls. as shown in the pictures. the way the piston sits in the cylinder is if you were sitting on the wheeler the skirt on the piston is left to right. so the wrist pin is front to back. which is where the two marks are in the cylinder. so that means the connecting rod is making the piston slap the cylinder on the wrist pin side which seems like a weird way for the cylinder to be moving. not natural. now the connecting rod has slight play left to right but not up and down. ive talked to a few people they say it might be the roller bearings in the connecting rod where it meets the crankshaft. but the play it has is not that much. im just looking for some more input before i start splitting the case.
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