Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My sons kazuma 70 has been loosing power and doesn't want to pull up a hill. I'm thinking. It's the clutch but I'm no expert. I tried to adjust the clutch but the stud seems to spin freely and doesn't tighten up in the counter clockwise position. Am I on the right track or am I looking at something totally different. Please help

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadnut20
      Just picked up a 2025 Yamaha Kodiak 700 fixing to do a EPI Clutch mod to it since I dropped bigger tires on it !! Air box , exhaust , and programmer next ! 

    • By Adamb2025
      I have a 1990 Honda fourtrax 300 2x4
      I rode the other day for 30-45 min. Switched it off and now it is completely dead..
      battery is fully charged, fuses are good . WILL NOT TURN OVER ,
      headlights won't turn on , No neutral, reverse or oil temp lights . Electrically it is completely dead !!! I replaced the key switch and CDI box , STILL NOTHING.
      I bypassed the neutral safety switch and grounded it to the battery and still nothing !! I used a jumper wire on the starter Solenoid , the motor will turn over but not start . I even bypassed both fuses and straight wired it to see if I could get a neutral light or headlights still nothing . What could it be ?
    • By sunn
      The clutch engagement on my 2021 cforce 400s was approx 2700 RPM, very abrupt/not smooth.   I obtained a "kit" from RNG consisting of a blue painted spring (spring force unknown) with 12 gram weights, as measured on my postal scale.  Installation was easy; 18 mm and 30 mm (not 32 mm as seen on other writings) impact sockets for clutch housing removal.  The resultant clutch engagement was still up to approx 2500 and very abupt/not smooth.
       The original spring was labeled p/n 0951-1021 (specs for spring force 300/1600) with 18 gram weights.
      I called RNG who told me the kit should work fine for my ATV, but that wasn't the case as I found.  
      The RNG spring was slightly longer than the stock spring, but felt slightly easier at initial downward force but had more resistance than stock as I continued to push down.  RNG would not tell me what the spring force was.
      I then tested the clutch with the RNG spring and the OEM 18 gram weights with the resultant engagement RPM of about 2050 RPM, a little smoother engagement but still not good.
      I am really struggling to get any answers on the best combination of spring / weights to achieve a smooth engagement of maybe 1800 RPM.  Note; idle RPM is approx. 1600.
      I have searched all the forums and cannot find good information, and RNG appears to be not willing to share information.  What gives here?  Anyone with experience to share?
    • By Coyote251
      I'm trying to help a buddy out with his bike (he's not really on the internet or familiar with these forums) and I'll admit that I am not super familiar with the transmission and clutches in these bikes. I owned a Brute a few years ago, but never had an issue like this that I had to troubleshoot.
      So basically my buddy bought a group lot of 650's to build one good bike out of. He got it all put together and has it running but when he pushes on the throttle the clutch doesn't engage till the RPM's are quite high and even when its moving it doesn't really speed up, almost seems like its in "limp mode". He's tried 2 different transmissions so I don't think that's the problem. 
      Is there any adjustment on the clutch engagement? Anything else I can tell him to look at? Let me know if you need anymore information if you think you can help.  
    • By davefrombc
      Anyone  carrying  a power box when  camping with their ATV?  I built  a custom  one.  I  used a  marine  battery box that  has 2  50A Anderson Grey connector  outputs (  changed one of the greys to a red), an accessory socket  and2  USB outlets,and a battery  voltmeter ..  I  added a Pure sine wave 1,000w inverter to it and A red 120A Anderson connector to the  output  posts.. To  charge the  100Ah LiFePO4 battery  I  put in the box, I added  a DC to DC charge adapter that I  made input connectors for to allow charging the battery from a vehicle's  accessory socket  or a solar panel.   
      It  was a fun  project.. Besides  having a  1,000w power box for  120V ac , USB   and  12v accessories using the 10 A socket.  I  have  50  A  Anderson connectors  and the 120 A connector  to run  things like a  12v electric outboard   for fishing  trips .  The LiFePO4  battery  only allows a max output of 100A  so  it  can't be used for something like jump starting,  but  it  is half the weight and  delivers twice the capacity of a lead acid battery running accessories..  Commercial pow2er  boxes  don't  deliver  high draw 12v output to run things like  the  electric outboards.   That's one reason  I  custom  built  mine.   One box that serves for both camping and fishing.
       

×
×
  • Create New...