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bpimpsmoking

1999 King Quad 300 Choke position

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Had the opportunity to buy a 1999 King Quad really cheap with snow plow included. Has 2000 miles on it. Im used to having Hondas and i am not familiar with Suzuki at all. Where should the choke be when running? I runs with the choke lever toward the ground but stalls when coming to the end of pushing a pile of snow.

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Up is off. The Suzuki starter (choke) is not a butterfly choke, but a fuel enrichment system. It is designed to only be needed below 40°F for starting. After starting gradually move it up as the engine warms. Shouldn't be needed after only a few minutes. Also when starting with the starter on (down) because it enriches the fuel, don't touch the throttle or you defeat it. Both of my 93's start down to 20°F by just tapping the starter. No choke and no throttle. If your spark plug and fuel are fresh, yours should start like that. At 2000 miles that model is just getting broken it. With proper maintenance it should last 8000+.

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Thank you very much. I used it today to plow and had no stalling issue with the choke all the way up. Its amazing how much better this quad plows compared to a Honda 300

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If you want it to plow even better, you can remove the Super Low lockout pin so that it can be put in front differential lock in low or high. The mod also makes it shift ranges easier. Here's a link to a lengthy thread on the mod. It'll probably take longer to read it all than it actually takes to do it. I think the only reason Suzuki put that lockout on them was for product liability reasons. Just don't drive it in High with the differential locked at high speeds on hard surfaces.

Differential Mod - Suzuki ATV Forum

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Im going to give that a try this up coming weekend. It is hard to shift from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive so i have just been leaving it in 4 wheel since im only using it for plowing. Samething happens when going from high to low or vice versa. Again im just leaving it in low. Is there something to check to make the shifting of the subtransmission easier? Figure it could you atleast a new filter and oil change.

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That sub-transmission/differential shifter is normally a PITA. Some guys says it is like night and day, regarding how much easier they shift w/o the lockout pin. Others say it didn't make much difference. Probably depends on how well the shifter is broken in and how well they cleaned and greased it. If you have the time, take it completely out and apart and clean any rust, etc. Then grease it with marine grease. Bet it will be a lot better.

When you change the oil, watch carefully for the small o-ring under the filter and be sure you re-install it. I usually pull the RR wheel. It just makes everything easier to get at. When you think you have all the oil out, let the jack down as low as you can with that wheel off and watch how much more comes out. To add oil I use a long neck funnel and a 2 ft length of clear hose attached to the end of the funnel. It goes in slow. Fill until it just reaches the fill line in the window with the wheel back on and the machine level. Run it a minute then shut it off and ad enough so that it is between

the lines. Make sure the oil says JASO-MA approved on the bottle so your wet clutch won't slip. Personally, I use Shell Rotella T6 fully synthetic 5W-40. That way I can run it year round. I think the main transmission shifts easier with the synthetic oil. Just MHO.

While you are in there by the filter, it is also easy to adjust the clutch. It's the little round cover about 11 o'clock from the filter. You just remove the cover, loosen the locknut, tighten the inner adjusting crew until snug then back it out 1/8 turn. Tighten the lock nut and replace the cover. It's hard to hold the inner screw while tightening the locknut, so I just make a mark on the cover lined up with the slot in the screw and check it after tightening the locknut. It usually doesn't move.

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Thank you so much. I think with alittle TLC this quad will last a long time. Its nice to have a forum to get some guidance since the owners manual is about useless

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