Quantcast
Jump to content


2000 manual shift 300 Carb


Recommended Posts

Help, The carb started leaking gas out of my 2000 300 so I shut the gas off. 6 months later I get a chance to check into it and the needle is stuck in the brass seat. New needle and cleaned the carb good and now the gas won't shut off. Fills the air box/cylinder with gas. I had it apart 3 times and nothing I did seems to solve the continual gas flow. I really don't want to spend $379 for a new carb. Any suggestions? I did notice the tangs,arm that hold the float pin are really wore out, lots of slop for the float pin.

Put a piece of hose on the gas inlet, blew through the hose and lifted the float and it will shut off air being blown. But, hook the gas line up to carb and gas just keeps running out of it.:no:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok put the carb kit in and it got a little better but still leaking gas into the cylinder sporatically. Found out that the diaphram in the carb also needed replaced. Carb issues resolved but not the voltage regulator/rectifier went out. Get that replaced and it aught to be good for another 8000 miles.:yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
Ok put the carb kit in and it got a little better but still leaking gas into the cylinder sporatically. Found out that the diaphram in the carb also needed replaced. Carb issues resolved but not the voltage regulator/rectifier went out. Get that replaced and it aught to be good for another 8000 miles.:yes:

Still running great. Just wanted to let everyone know.:yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By Clydaho
      2022 Sector 550, 414 miles on it and the gas gauge reads empty.  I topped off the gas and it didn't change.
      There is no fuse that I could find.  No access at the gauge cluster.
      Wiring on the top of the tank looks good, properly connected.
      Could the sending unit in the tank be stuck or broken?
      Has anybody removed the tank lid?  Any tricks?  
      Any other ideas?
      Thanks for any help,
      Clyde
    • By hardcastle
      My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Louznmemind
      Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues...  It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle?? 
×
×
  • Create New...