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Tne seats look very good, you did a great job. I agree with the pneumatic stapler tip, every time i do one i say im going to have to get a better stapler, last one i did i got an electric stapler it didnt do any better than the mechanical one. I will have to try a pneumatic one.

I promised to send pictures. Also I recommend getting a pneumatic stapler from Harbor Freight or you will find that the hand held staplers are hard to work with and do not drive the staples deep enough. Additionally I recommend YouTube videos by “Old School Auto Upholstery “ for the techniques necessary for this job. I’m very happy with the results.

I think the mixture at idle is too rich. That would explain it idling cold but then cutting out once it warmed up. And winding the idle mixture screw in doesn't make it too lean by the sound of it... Both things point to a rich mixture. Check the air filter is clean and oiled, and not over-oiled. Check the breather hoses on the tank and carb are fitted correctly and not blocked. The dieing when warm could also be a tight valve clearance so it would be a good idea to check those. The idle mixture needs to be adjusted at the slowest idle speed it will idle steadily at. So you slow it with the idle speed screw then wind the mixture screw in and out till it is in the place that gives the highest idle speed, then you wind the speed screw out to slow it right down and you adjust the mixture to it's best idle again, then slow it, then adjust it, and you keep going around in a circle slowing it and adjusting the mixture. Once it's idling slow and steady then you can speed it up if you want to but leave the mixture where it's best at the place where it will run nicely with the least amount of butterfly opening. If it doesn't come right, if the idle can't be adjusted in both directions with similar rev changes, and/or it keeps dieing once warm then I'd check the float level, which can probably be checked with the carb in place using a bit of clear hose, and I'd check the jetting.

Spray some carb cleaner around the intake where the carb attaches to the engine if it speeds up that is where your air leak is, you might also look for open vacum ports on the carb, and makes sure all the vacum hoses are attached to where they are supposed to go. Not sure if your model has a vacum operated petcock, some times they will leak.

Happy Father's Day!

How would I go about finding that leak?

I have had that happen before, generally somethings not right with the carb, usually a massive air or vacum leak causing an overly lean condition that the adjuster screw cant adjust out.

Ok so I just got time to mess with it and I had the fuel screw almost all the way in and it didn’t make any change which is weird

You have been busy, sounds like its coming together nicely. Good choice deciding not to rip out the existing harness its usually easier to repair the existing one. Sometimes i can find Wix oil filters ot Oreilys but not all the time, so you did good to order it. The last time i just ordered the Yamaha one from Amazon, it came in a 2 pack.

The dash lights and relays work as they should. I am thankful that the PO didn't actually mess with the original wiring harness as suspected. The neutral relay, the START button, and the starter solenoid was bad. 2 new relays with the same SPST NO nature as the neutral and stop switch/engine cut relays came in, and I have swapped-in a replacement. I may have restated the above in an earlier post, but that is a re-cap. Everything including pressing START when the ATV is correctly in NEUTRAL works as it should. Only the relay is not hooked-up to the starter, and I won't do that until I've put new oil and filter in it. I am waiting for the KN142 cartridge-type oil filter to come in, ordered over a week ago with the other parts. Apparently it was not Bezos 'Prime', and I missed that. I could not find the equivalent in stock at Walmart, because I have the fluids and would have bought one of them, there-and-then. Maybe someone knows of a compatible filter, because they do have a dozen filter cartridges. It looks like the procedure is to remove the screw holding the cooling lines to the frame, the shift lever, then to remove the 3 socket-head cap bolts keeping the N12345 cover on, and the filter should slide out. The airbox and hoses are ordered. They are close in year make and model, and I will not be 100% sure that they will fit until they arrive.

Did it just stop like you turned the key off, or did it start running poorly first?

Welcome, great site, hope you enjoy it.

How much oil is getting into the airbox?

Do you just have no spark or other issues as well.

You should put the hoses back to how they are meant to be. The sump might have too much oil in it, or the oil may have fuel in it, or the engine may need an overhaul. Those are the usual reasons oil gets into the airbox. Your bike may have a PCV valve somewhere, and that maybe clogged and need cleaning.

I think I'm having the same issues as well

Great information

Just joined so I can download a manual and In the process of making my 10 posts.

Oil is getting in the air box from crankcase vent tube, I put the two hoses that go to the air box together then something started to smoke on the front of the engine. There is a filter? In the line I blew that out.

One year later and a DC cdi. Coil Primary 0.1-0.5, secondary 12-20K ohm with cap. Pickup coil 90-140 Ohm. They recommend a peak voltage test of at least 2.5v.

Coil primary 0.5Ohm, secondary 10-16K Ohm. Pickup/trigger coil 90-140 Ohm, cdi charge coil 106-160 Ohm.

I had a sudden loss of spark in my 1988 Suzuki LT300E quadrunner and we tried a new plug but still no spark. Then we checked the boot and there was no issues with it. I then took off the coil as I was going to get a resistance reading with a multimeter however I cannot find anywhere what the readings should be. The coil is a Mitsubishi F6T 411. Any help would be appreciated.

And for the price of one manual you get access to hundreds...

Hi Dave. Yamaha did make one model in the early days that did have a power takeoff shaft at the rear, but it ran at unusual revs and had to have special yamaha implements.. as I understand it. There's one thread about one here and specs on the net