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Hi Dave. Yamaha did make one model in the early days that did have a power takeoff shaft at the rear, but it ran at unusual revs and had to have special yamaha implements.. as I understand it. There's one thread about one here and specs on the net

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The tiller tines need t rotate at a much faster pace than the wheels so there would have to be considerable modifications`v and expense to try that idea.. My tiller tines rotate at approximately 13 times as fast as the wheels of the tiller. It would be an interesting concept if one of the ATV makers would add a PTO to their machine and offer PTO driven accessories lie a tiller for it . Mate a PTO to a hydraulic pump to drive the accessories.. Who wouldn't like an ATV yo can have fun with on the trails and use the same machine for snow blowing ( or blade pushing as the have now) but also for rotortilling and other garden chore .. A truly 4 season toy /tool.

Is the cdi unit providing an earth for the start circuit when either the brake switch, or the neutral relay, is closed ? Not all cdi do. The one in that diagram does.

For everyone following the thread. Process of elimination. The Start Stop and Neutral relay are SPST NO. So that leaves reverse.

Gw's right about in being leaner, but try turning the mixture screw in and out making sure there is a sweet spot in the middle, and that winding it too far either direction makes it run bad.. That checks the float level's not too high or low, that there are no bad air leaks, and that all the jetting is about right. Checking it's responsive in both direction often reveals a problem. And yeah, stale fuel is something to watch for.. We generally do suggest stale fuel if it sounds like the bikes been parked up for a while.. Good work changing that...

Ha.. good point Gw.. Quads are for fun, not work.. They were using the quad engine though in this case which isn't designed for that type of work, and doesn't have a governor.. It would be horrible to operate !

#66 Easier for who Rancher ?

Ok I’ll try that then let you know

Turn it in to make it leaner.

This is an online forum/community that survives by member engagement. So, we offer a way for people like you to get a manual free, but have you have to participate. You can bypass posting by signing up for a Premium Memberhip: https://www.quadcrazy.com/subscriptions

Yes it’s a mikuni, but the funniest thing happened, I put new gas in it and I couldn’t get it to die when driving. What a dumb solution. But I did find out that when idling it bogs down and dies after a minute or so, I’m thinking it could be getting too much gas so when adjusting the fuel screw do I tighten it or loosen it for restricting fuel?

Too bad you say something is free to download, but you have to make 10 comments before it is available to you when you first start a membership. It's pretty hard to have things to say right off the bat, but when you are trying to download a service manual you don't really want to wait until you have figured out 10 conversations to start. At least it is for me.

Is this a rebuilt Mikuni carb

I wouldnt think a rotary tiller engine would have enough power to till and drive the ATV wheels very effectively. To drive it , it would just be a matter of fabricating a drive shaft from the tiller PTO to the ATV wheels and a lot of fabrication for mounting wheels to the frame. I would rather use my time to build something fun, once you get the tiller built, then there is work involved.

So what are we up to on the wiring, cut out relay neutral relay and reverse relay, is the new soloenoid working good. I have looked high and low for a free manual for that bike seems to be non existant, the one Mech found seems to be the best.

Numbers don't match. Easier just to say what their roles are.

You Guys are spoiled by your parts availability ! Over here the selection is limited and expensive.. Good find with the fender.

That looks very good, good find!

If you have a timing light put it on and watch to see the spark isn't dying when it gets hot. Check the idle mixture, make sure that turning it either way has the effect it's meant to. Check the fuel flow to and through the carb is sufficient. Undo the drain bung on the carb and make sure it keeps flowing even after the bowl is drained.

Sorry about the slow reply. Been away on a family emergency. In that PDF service manual you posted the relays are numbered in the wiring diagram. That's where I get the numbers, but the index says what their role is. Check the idle mixture screw turns before you go to far on that carb. In my opinion a seized idle screw is a more difficult problem to cure.. The rest will probably be fairly easy to clean up. Not sure about that main jet removal. Is that a plastic housing the main is mounted in ? Never seen that before, perhaps the whole plastic tube slides out then there's a flat to hold the brass or something.. I'm short of time but I'll check the manual if I get a chance.

Probably better to just buy a mid-size tiller and keep the quad to ride around I think. Machinery is designed for a purpose, and designed to the finest detail to ensure they have every thing they need and nothing in excess. A quad bike engine isn't designed for that sort of work and won't have the power needed, nor the cooling capacity.. An industrial engine is designed to run slowly and economically producing power at low revs, and they can keep producing that power for hours at a time without overheating.

Mail call! Fedex came by and delivered the front fenders I needed. Wasn't too thrilled with the packaging, but the plastics look brand new! Very pleased! Now I've gotta take the front, rear and fuel tank plastics and go throw some paint on them!

Also I cleaned the fins, oil is good,I’m not sure if it has a fan and if it does I’m not sure where to look but as for the carb I just set it to default and then turned the idle up a little

I’m pretty new to this stuff but I ended up putting new gas in it and it hasn’t died yet, but it does sound a lot different, it kinda sounds like it’s sputtering and it’s louder