I should have got back quicker but hopefully this will save you some work pulling the flywheel off.. To do as I suggest and move the crank by one tooth you don't need to pull the flywheel. For the sake of an example we will say that with the crank timing marks lined up, the cam timing marks are a halt tooth to the right(clockwise), and that the cam timing marks are straight up and down. If the timing marks are flat across then you could put a mark straight up and down. All you need to do is hold the chain at the very top, in line with the mark on the sprocket, you will be holding a link that's slightly to the right of the very top, then pull the sprocket away from the cam and drop it down, work the chain off the sprocket. Now turn the crank till the chain has moved one link through your fingers. In this example the crank would need rotating to the right(clockwise). Now slip the cam sprocket up or back in and fit the timing mark, or the mark you'd made, back into the link between your fingers. Put the sprocket on the cam. Now you have the timing mark, the mark that used to be a half tooth to the right, back right where it used to be, looking a half tooth to the right.. But, when you turn the crank the one tooth's worth of rotation it need to get it's marks lined up again, (to the left/anti-clockwise), the cam is going to move half the distance, or a half tooth. Both marks line up. Turn the cam till the bolt holes line up and put the bolts in. But, but, but you say, how can that be(I've heard this before), the chain got moved one tooth on the cam sprocket, which you'd already done thirty times.. It doesn't make sense.. Well, the answer is.... To move the crank sprocket by one tooth, takes a certain number of degrees or rotation, but to move the cam sprocket by one tooth it takes twice as many degrees of rotation of the cam as it would of the crank to move that one tooth. Hope that helps anyway and speed up the job a bit.

Yeah the gearing is two to one between the two sprockets. If you leave the crank in the same place, and move the cam sprocket one tooth the timing looks a half a tooth advanced, and one cam tooth the other way it looks a half tooth retarded. So you turn the crank a little and refit the chain, and then refit the cam and it comes out right. One tooth's worth of travel of the chain on the crank, is equal to one half tooth of chain travel on the cam.

Nearly all electrical systems on four stroke motors are actually easy to track down considering they are all a self contained system, you just need to follow the power flow from battery to starter for starters. If you moved the starter relay and had quick connection then nothing, that's normally a loose connection under and/or inside the relay at the connectors. Now when you turn the key and no power is indicated, include your fuse box and your looking for obvious loose wiring at the connection points. If nessasary, you may need the assistance from a good multimeter, set at DC power, positive end on battery positive post, negative side will be your probing end. Also include checking all wire connection that attaches to your frame, block, all negative endings to ensure all bolts, nuts, fasteners or all to speck, Good starting point is your battery, check it, verify the power and continue to next junction. My email is [removed, use private message] if you have more questions,good luck