Frank Angerano

Have you checked the main fuse by starter relay and try to wiggle the ignition switch a little.  Some times they act up.  

 Any dash lights, headlights ?

I may not have explained how I would apply the jb weld but I would putt a little around the threads and send it in and ASAP once it’s in I would add some in the area where the chunk is missing and a small bead around the entire  plug where it meets the engine to be safe. It has to be clean though and even if you want rough the area up with a little sand paper. 

Ugh thats bad.   Jb weld will work great though.  Use the tap plug.  Drain the oil lay the bike on the side so no oil is in the area of the threads when installing the plug back in. Clean it a little with a carb cleaner and dry It good so no oil is in the area.   That’s why you have to lay it on the side and let it sit like that for a few min.  

The only other thing to do it bring it to a weld shop and have a guy that’s know heli arc alum welding and weld the tap plug in place.   

Prob best to pull the carb off as well and give it a good cleaning. 

Sounds good. 

I would test the stator first before ripping into it. And always try to use oem parts.   Look on eBay they have tons.   Hope this helps and you get the bike running    

Hahaha parts are no longer available for it ? They sound like a bunch of idiots to me.  There are plenty of parts available for that bike and bikes way older.  Ok so get back to basics for a second.  I asked if you have welded or jump started the bike a lot? That will burn out the stator. Now weather the stator has any part in giving the bike spark or not I would say yes.  100 percent.   But I’m not a whole lot of a Suzuki guy like @Kent Mettler seems to be but I’ve never seen a stator coil not be a part of the ignition system.  It’s an easy test either way.   I also know form last posts that the Suzuki regulators/rectifies also cause a lot of problems.  So I would test the stator, test the  secondary cools and regulator with an ohm meter. We will help you along if necessary and eliminate some of the components so your not buying the world in parts.  

Have you welded or jump started it a lot ? You can burn up the stator by doing so.   

Why have had to replace the stator before if I may ask ? 

Sounds like some nice work on the bike so far.  Any pics? It’s  probably not electrical and more so a carburetor issue which could be dirt, sediment from a dirty tank and yes even in the petcock.  A lot of the time you will find that people clean the carburetor without cleaning the gas tank, petcock etc.  Then they put the carb back on just to find that it’s dirty again from the junk that was left behind in the tank. Also an in line gas filter also helps.  

I agree. It can’t hurt. You should see a difference in the engine with any little adjustment.   So tear it down, clean the as***** out of it.  Set the fuel/air screw at 2-1/2 turns and throw it back in.  

Sounds great.  The brake pads looked like they were beyond shot!!  I don’t think I’ve ever seen it so clean.  Good luck brother.  Wished we would get a little snow down here! 

I think we should get some Quadcrazy stickers !!!!!

The only other place I can think of with Suzuki is the left front rail on the main frame under the foot rest black plastic. 

Have you checked on the left rear frame where the tire is located.   It’s the rail that runs down right above the rear tire. 

Good morning ! Pounding headache too much vino last night. I think I’m going to pull the Mojave out today.  See what’s what with it.  Hope everyone has a great weekend. 

Well whichever way you go if I’m up there any of the weekends let me know.  I’m great with a shovel.  

I agree with @Ajmboy but I’m a fan of taking the block wall out completely. Peel back the soil far enough back and form out and pour a footing with rebar sticking up. Then after the footing is set and cured form out a new retaining wall and pour a new wall with concrete. Strip it down and you will never have to touch it again. Before you back fill you add some crushed stone and a piece of perforated drain pipe along the bottom back side of the wall and back fill it.  

You can add some pieces of 1” pvc weep holes through the wall at the bottom every 10 feet but water will weep out and feeeze and that’s a pain in the as*.  Salt etc.  

I hear you brother as it can be frustrating.  Did any of the adjustments change how the bike ran ? Reason I’m asking is it should change the engine performance.  If the bike is running good at any one setting I would leave it there and move on to the next possable problem which leads me to my next question.    Are you 100% sure it’s a pinging your hearing and not something else? 

The cdi boxes are available on eBay. New and used.  I really don’t think it’s your cdi though.  Especially since you said you had spark before the rebuild. So unless you left it out where it was wet and moisture got inside  or burnt it out by hooking something up wrong my guess is it’s prob fine. 

 Have you double checked all of your wiring connections as well as looking for any banged wires that may have happened while putting the motor back in or pinched ? 

Have you tested the stator coil, regulator and secondary coils ? Easy test with an ohm meter.  Double check your kill switch.  

Lol I know brother.  Be patient.   You will get it squared away.  Get that plug out and be easy.   

Something does not look right on that carburetor.  There should be a jet inside that middle of the carb the main jet . Was it taken out? Also is that the factory carb the oem ? It looks like it’s a Mikuni 

Ok that looks better. I didn’t see the last pic. See the  main jet in the middle.  

The one you have the arrow pointed at is your air fuel mixture screw.   You have to get the right screw driver to fit in and uncrew it.   Was it tightened down all the way ?

if the brass plug is in there yiu have to get a small pick and pull it out.

Is that your carburetor or an image of another?

I would look to see if there is a compression relief lever on the head. Some of the bikes (not sure on your model) have this to make pull starting easier.   I would also pull the spark plug and see if the engine spins any easier. If not there is something obviously holding the engine back. But try that first and see what happens.  If it’s still tight we will go into it further.

As far as the pull start having to be jiggled a little bit there is a spring that ejects a metal tab into the flywheel “cup”to spin the engine when you pull on the start cord. My guess is it has to be taken apart and a new spring and or tab needs replacing.  Parts manual will show you exactly what the part names and locations/part number to get.   

I couldn’t make my mind up on the dam thing. One was $74 and one was $36 bot great reviews but they looks so different. 

Top $74 the roller plate is just shown not included as the winch comes with it.  

Middle $59

Borrom $36 

all coke with hardware.  

Holy carp I double tapped on that pic lol. 

Thats a great post.  

Good point.