MtBob

So, here's the deal, older (93?) Kodiak. Little use. Colder climate. In the mountains. The brakes have always sucked. Have to keep ft and rear locked up on hills, to keep from rolling, while weed spraying. Looking for the highest friction brake shoes(yes, shoes ft and rear on these old ones). Seems is too old, the racer stuff, nobody makes any. Organics and ceramic are about worthless, as brakes never get hot/warm. Any ideas? I just now ordered the basic DP sintered shoes, looks like my best bet, for what is available. Ones on now are cheapo ebay crap, work about the same as factory ones.

ATV plastic is a wear item.Up to 5 different kinds on ATV's.UV kills it.Sometimes sanding and painting is better,just like a car bumper.The linseed concoction,same as wd40,is the same,as on plastic headlights that have clouded over,it may work fine,but,for a short time.

Not a critical thing.Slide the lever on,so that the rod(or cable,as I do not know your machine),and the adjustment should be near the end of it.If you go too far,you may not be able to adjust it up enough to have the brake pedal activate the brakes.Unless yours is hydraulic,I did not look.Bottom line,you want around 2" to push down on pedal,to activate rear brakes,unless you always wear sneakers,lol,and you want the brakes to fully release .

Before quads went watercooled,some had oil cooling,a remote "radiator" hooked to the oil system.Worked well overall,but not for the high speed and guys that hammer stuff.Hondas seemed to be the worse for cooling.Search youtube,there are several good conversions for putting oil coolers on older hondas.

the older yamaha kodiak,big bears have a centrifugal clutch,manual transmission,and have low range,which is very handy for towing stuff around,and for really rough country.A 400 would probably do you nicely.

Yes

Could be water in the float bowl,or a piece of floater dirt.loosen and remove bowl drain screw,turn on fuel and let some run out,it may wash it out.

Take to a repair shop.

not

I do not have a wiring diagram for your unit,but,is inconceivable a CDI box would keep your unit from cranking the engine over.

I do not have your repair manual,a few more posts then you can download it.The older units would crank without starting,the newer units changed.

Multiple problems,no spark,no crank.A blown fuse is rare.A vibration damaged fuse is common.Busted bulbs?as in the glass broke?Anyway,we need more information.Does sound like you have a wiring harness rubbed through,and have a short.Also,checking the kill switch,it has to be unplugged from the harness.Also,rarely,the back of the ignition switch comes loose,and turns,can cause strange problems.

If you see gear lube leaking from the seal on the left,or the seal inside the brake drum,replacing them will not fix your problem.There are 2 seals inside the differential that seal the gear oil.The seals you can see leaking are to keep water and mud out,the bearings are sealed.You have to pull the axle,pull the center section of the differential,then split the differential,to replace the inner seals.It is not hard,and you can do with standard tools,just be sure to put the shims back in.Because of this design,the axle splines,inside,get rusty,then wear.I recently did my old beater,the axle was very loose in the splines,when I pulled it out,the axle splines looked terrible,but the splines inside the ring gear carrier had much less wear.From the factory,these axles are a press fit,but,from info I gathered,does not last long.I think the axle is softer than the internal splines.So,when putting back together,I installed an aftermarket axle,it slid in snug,and had no play.I called a friend(old Yammer technician) and he said as part of a service for farm customers,they slide out the axle and grease the splines,1 to 2 times a year.I have heard some serious mudder/high water guys drill,tap and install a grease fitting in the axle tube,and pump it full of grease.Also,if you loose the left axle bearing(you will),by the time you notice,the bearing race might be very corroded to the aluminum housing,very difficult to get out,but,if you pull the differential apart,drives out easy from the inside.OK,that's my information donation for now.

Easy fix.The Honda kit has more parts,that you really do not need,and costs 55 bucks or more.

LOL more than I run my rig,sometimes mine does not move for 2 months.But it does not have a digital clock.A note,if you buy a winch,the newer ones have a "sensing' or control wire,to be switched on and off by the key,follow the directions,there are all kinds of stories out there that people wired that wire directly to battery(because it is easy) and their batteries would go dead in 2-3 days.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR-PRIMER-PUMP-SET-FOR-HONDA-16048-HN7-003-16048-HC4-003-16048-HM7-700/273364480424?hash=item3fa5caf1a8:g:W~kAAOSwF2xbUQPq

First,call a Honda dealer,with your serial number,there was a recall for some models,I seem to remember.Yes, there is a power memory wire that could be cut and rewired to switched power,but,i think,you might loose trip mileage everytime unit is restarted.I think the drain is so small it would probably take 3 months or more to run battery down enough electric starter would not work.

Nice site,glad I stumbled here.I only have an old 96 kodiak,thoroughly flogged by 2 last owners,but do not ride much,use it around property,run to neighbors,or mailbox,and hunting season.Semi-retired mechanic,so I will help out when I can.Have a good day,Bob.

Depending on how much you plow,if other things are on(lights,etc).ATV charging systems are generally just big enough to charge battery,while lights are on,while being at a higher rpm.Every time you hit the winch button,the drain on the battery is more than what the atv starter draws.Some people do fine with a winch for the plow,but they generally have a battery tender,or float charger to plug in,after they are done,so atv will start next time.You may be fine,I was just warning you.You can also find atv plowing info on snowplow forums.Lots of businesses use them for driveways,now.

Hope you enjoy it,they are good dependable machines.Just some words of advice,dragging logs is very hard on a atv,especially a smaller one,hard on the clutch and drivetrain.A loaded trailer is easier on it.If you are thinking about adding a winch to lift the plow,you will run the battery down very fast,and put quite a strain on the stator.Just some food for thought.

Nice.

I recommend to both-go to Partzilla and look up item,their online catalog is usually very up to date,the numbers listed for the 500 do not seem to be what OP has,and,the speedo for the 700 looks very expensive.They appear different.https://www.partzilla.com/

My advise would be to take a experienced ATV owner with you.Out here,that price would be about 500 too high,especially with a broken odometer.You also would probably be much happier with a Grizzly,or something else with bigger engine.